Wine Club Newsletter - April 2014
Jim Clendenen
Interview by Katherine Cole
I came across this most recent interview with Jim Clendenen. Jim came to The WineSellar & Brasserie for a winemaker dinner for his Au Bon Climat wines in 1992, some 22 years ago. I will never forget how dynamic he was, but still very down to earth. We chatted for hours after the dinner was over, and still could have been days later. Anyway, I want to introduce you to him. GRP
Jim Clendenen, the owner of Au Bon Climat (ABC) has been called “the most iconic American wine personality since Robert Mondavi." He tells Katherine Cole that his honesty and lack of "self-filter" gets him in trouble.
What first drew you to wine?
I turned 21 while living in France and noticed the ubiquitous presence of wine on everyone’s tables, in everyone’s homes. I knew I wanted to work in wine. I didn’t think I’d be a winemaker; I thought I would go into sales. I turned 21 in Bordeaux and spent the rest of my junior year abroad eating, drinking and carrying on. That was 1973 and ‘74, a long time ago.
You returned to France in 1977 and worked for the importer Becky Wasserman. Becky asked you to interview 40 Burgundians, including Henri Jayer, for her catalog. What did you learn from this experience?
She wanted to know all the winemaking techniques of these legends — Jayer, François Jobard, Michel Lafarge — the list was endless. She lent me a two-cylinder tin truck. I wrote down everything I learned from these guys, which was really cool for me. When Romanée-Conti tells me the only barrels they buy are François Frères, why wouldn’t I want to work with François Frères here? So I did, and I still do.
What has been your greatest triumph?
We have received some international awards that were really special. The most memorable was in 2004, when the best wine magazine in Germany, "Der Feinschmecker" (called WeinGourmet at that time), named me “Winemaker of the Year.” That was stunning. I was up against people like Didier Dageneau, Willi Bründlmayer, Paolo de Marchi and Peter Sisseck. And they chose me. I was the most surprised guy in the room. The awards dinner was in this beautiful castle in Germany. That was the best night I’ve had in the wine business.
How about your greatest failure?
The 1983 Pinot Noir I made with Adam Tolmach, my former business partner [now of The Ojai Vineyard]. It was our second vintage and our first El Niño year. We managed to make a glorious Chardonnay even though half the grapes were so botrytized that we could have made dessert wine. We made a pretty good Pinot but as it started aging, it went this rosé color because it had botrytis. Burgundy aficionados might have said: “Why do you think this is so bad? It’s like a really delicious Savigny-lès-Beaune!” Why? Because I had sold my previous wine for $12 and had to sell this one for $6.
You founded Au Bon Climat in 1982. Was there a customer base for Burgundian-style California Pinot and Chardonnay back then?
Absolutely, right away. We sold out of the wines very quickly. The Chardonnays were wonderful from the very beginning. Recently, Adam Tolmach came up to visit with his whole winemaking staff. We opened the ’82 Pinot Noir and it was no worse than when we released it: it sucked then and it sucks now. We fermented it with stems and it was spicy and really earthy, too earthy and light. My good friend Dominique Lafon asked if my goal was to make Chassagne-Montrachet rouge in a mediocre year. If so, I was achieving that.
Robert Parker named ABC one of the best wineries in the world in '89 and '90, and then trashed essentially the same wines in '96. How did you ride the wave of changing critical opinion?
They were almost exactly the same wines: same pH, the same dry extract, the same acidity, the same everything. If he were to drink the ’89 — which he absolutely loved — today, Parker would trash that wine because it was 11.9 percent alcohol. Back in ’89 and ’90, Parker thought that people who made wine like Europeans were interesting. Now he thinks people who make European-style wines are carrying the weight of a great yoke of pointless tradition.
As soon as people like Kistler started making opulent, high-alcohol wines, he began to describe our wines as “pinched, taut and austere.” I actually made a wine just for Parker from '96 through ’99. I called it Nuits-Blanches, or the night you don’t sleep. I put the original in 200 percent new oak: a year in new oak and then another year in more new oak. Parker gave it 89 points; I guess I didn’t make it strong enough.
Jim Laube [Wine Spectator] gave it the highest score I ever got from him, a 91 for the 2001 vintage. It’s the only oxidized wine I’ve ever made in my career. I wanted to prove that I could make a wine and get a high score even though it was undrinkable for me and my clients. Now I make a less opulent version, called Nuits-Blanches au Bouge. But it is still my richest and most opulent wine.
You’re not shy about speaking candidly. Does that ever get you into trouble?
I have a lot of candor and no self-filter. I get into trouble daily. Especially in print, because in general the problem is that my sentences are long-winded and convoluted. There was once a situation in which Mr Parker began staying at the residence of a local winery. Then, suddenly, their Pinot Noirs changed and were going up to 15.5 percent, 16 percent alcohol. I brought this up at an In Pursuit of Balance panel and a blogger quoted me without putting the quote into context. The winemaker called me up and screamed about me making things up. He didn’t give me time to explain, as I did when I was on the panel, that I was referring to something that had happened more than 15 years ago and had nothing to do with the current winemaker.
But a sense of humor and a big personality are useful assets for building a wine business, aren’t they?
You know, the hard thing is, once you’re known for it, you can’t avoid it. People want to see me – they don’t want to see anyone else. After 32 years, it is a bit challenging to keep up the energy. And anyway, it’s lonely in the cellar. When I am alone in the cellar and checking my barrels, I think I taste the wines and have sexual fantasies at the same time: “Wouldn’t it be great if Helmut Newton showed up with six models?”
I was at Ca’ del Bosco in Italy once when that actually happened. I was with a crazy Italian who was married but also dating Cicciolina, the Italian porn star/politician. Anyway, Helmut Newton showed up that afternoon and shot this fashion shoot in the caves that forever changed the way I look at vaulted ceilings and barrels.
All I can think is brr – caves are cold…!
Sure, it’s cold — it’s all part of the fantasy. No one walks into a cellar just dying to disrobe.
Any more astonishing wine experiences you’d like to share with us?
The 60th birthday party of Frank Komorowski, a truly great wine collector from Bellevue, Ohio. I drank Bordeaux, which is not typically my wine. But what Bordeaux! We started out with Champagne that had been salvaged from the Jänköping, the Swedish boat that sank in 1916. We had three bottles: two tasted great and the last one tasted like a football dissolved in salt water.
The highlight was a small vertical of Lafite. We started with the 1959 — a young, drinkable wine — with the main course. Then we tasted the 1899 and 1900 — two great vintages, out of magnum — to compare them. We had one of the 1870 Lafite magnums found by Michael Broadbent at the Queen Mother’s castle, Glamis Castle in Scotland. This was a wine with impeccable provenance.
We finished off with extraordinary Ports from the 19th century. I said to myself: “This is pretty damn wonderful.”
But then, four weeks ago, I was in a 600-year-old Buddhist temple in Kyoto, to debut a wine I had made in partnership with a famous Japanese professor of art. We were served traditional, 600-year-old Buddhist vegetarian recipes and a zen master was there, translating for me. Brian and Johnine Talley from Talley Vineyards were there, too. There I was, the grandson of two coal miners from western Pennsylvania, just sitting there in awe of how great the world of wine has been to me. I am just so lucky to be in it.
Cascina Ca'Rossa Langhe Nebbiolo DOC
The relatively new Langhe appellation in Italy's Piemonte encompasses the famous Barolo and Barbaresco appellations and some considerable outlying areas. Unlike Barolo or Barbaresco, qualification for the appellation is not particularly strict, especially regarding grape varietal. You expect wide variances in quality and you get it. Nevertheless, good Langhe Nebbiolos are often considered the poor man's Barolo. They might on occasion even be Barolos that for one reason or another have been downgraded into a wider appellation. The existence of Langhe allows producers to hand pick the best Nebbiolo for their top wines, knowing they still will have a DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) rather than an IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) for the remains. Not only do you pay much less, you also save on the real estate you need to cellar your Barolos, and on the inheritance tax your survivors will pay on the wine if the long-aging Barolo survives you. To say Langhe is pop and pour would be going to extremes here, however. This is the formidable Nebbiolo, so it is pop, aerate two hours, then pour and enjoy.
Cascina Ca'Rossa is an Azienda Agricola, a term referring to an estate that buys in neither grapes nor wine; those that do either are counted under the term Azienda Vinicola. This $20 estate bottled wine is 100% Nebbiolo from grapes grown at 200-250 meters in altitude on south and southeastern facing hills with limestone clay soils. The wine is vinified in stainless steel and given three months bottle aging before coming to market.
You would never find such direct handling with a Barolo, but it is not useful to compare this wine with its close neighbor, despite the Nebbiolo connection. This wine works in its own rather sensuous way.
The wine is a medium intensity ruby with good transparency and clarity. Warm red and black berries with baking spice meet the nose at first swirl; the nose also has a rose-like floral element.
On the palate, this dry wine comes on with some immediate personality. The acidity is medium level, the tannins light yet pervasive. (Remember there is no wood contact to add wood tannins.) Blackberries, raspberries, blackcurrant and red plum are the major fruit notes. The clove and especially the nutmeg synergize the fruit, lending a spicy bitterness that melds well with the wine's overriding fragrant warmth.
The finish, though less than long, leaves the satisfying tang of the fruit, some tannic drying, and a mature back-taste of the nutmeg. This is a wine that is ready to drink now. Combine it with some good solid meat protein with sauces derived from thickened pan juices or with meat antipasti.
Though not a wine of particular length, it presents admirable mouth-filling breadth, and it is priced to enjoy without waiting for that special occasion.
2012 NZED “Savvy White”, Marlborough, New Zealand
Growing Region: Marlborough, New Zealand
Varietal Blend: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
Fermentation: Stainless Steel Tanks
Suggested Retail: $20.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $16.19
Broad Strokes:
The NZED Story:
Kiwi Distributing Inc., a company intent on bringing the world’s finest wines to wine drinkers, teamed with winemaker Neill Culley and Cable Bay vineyards to produce a line of high quality table wines, the result was NZED. Cable Bay vineyards sources its grapes from the distinct and celebrated regions of Marlborough and Waiheke Island in New Zealand.
Both these regions have the perfect soil and sunny climates for growing grapes, and when paired with the expertise of Neill Culley produce incredible wine. This exciting line combines quality with value bringing you some of New Zealand’s finest at very affordable rates, so you can open a bottle and celebrate a great table wine that doesn’t drain your wallet.
Appearance:
Kind of a “Chronic Cellars” looking label, with lots of caffeine and a contemporary, youthful, whimsical feel to it. The wine from the bottle is nearly clear, totally clean, and glistens while reflecting light well.
Nose:
The nose changes dramatically in 5 minutes. I was off put with the vegetal character, but it quickly dissipated to what started out as gooseberry, then fennel, honeysuckle, and passion fruit. Maybe it’s me, but I also got a steamed asparagus smothered in butter on the nose. And hard boiled egg. OK, I’ll stop.
Texture:
Bracing and brash acidic beginnings came around to a more creamy style center with the crisp acidity taking themselves just to the edges.
Flavor:
The nose translates pretty well to the palate, but we can add a few things: Orange and vanilla (50-50 Bar of my childhood past), green melon (ripe), lemon-lime soda. Add a spring water freshness to all of this and there you go.
Serving Options:
I decided the next time I have this wine, or the next time I have Salad Nicoise, they will be together on my table. It will be a knockout!
2010 B. R. Cohn Zinfandel, Sonoma Valley
Growing Region: Sonoma Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Zinfandel
Fermentation: 18 Months French & American Oak
Suggested Retail: $38.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $31.49
Broad Strokes:
Bruce Cohn, founder and proprietor of B.R. Cohn Winery, has embraced a lifelong passion for Northern California’s wine country and its bounty. An equally strong passion for music led to a parallel career in the music industry as the manager for one of rock ‘n’ roll’s perennially favorite American bands, The Doobie Brothers. His down-to-earth attitude, focus and dedication have made both careers flourishing successes to this day.
Bruce’s roots in Sonoma County agriculture run deep. He became familiar with ranch and vineyard operations at an early age, when his family left Chicago for Sonoma’s Russian River Valley to open Northern California’s first grade-A goat dairy farm.
I personally began consuming B. R. Cohn wines beginning with their first releases in the 1980’s. Upon the wines introduction to the general public, quite a stir was created for the balance, depth and richness of their estate wines.
Appearance:
The label basically has the same design as 30 years ago, but todays’ version has the olive branch looking more contemporary, and the lettering slightly changed. Good-looking package overall. The wine is deep purple, and when poured into the glass, the bubbles have a fresh, dark raspberry color lighting them up.
Nose:
The exotic, heady, great Zinfandel nose of dark berry, dark fruits, vanilla oak, bramble, and rosemary herbs is a glory. I also noticed black and white pepper, and interestingly, caramel and butterscotch.
Texture:
Full on glycerin, balanced, velvety smooth and rich, almost creamy texture is quite satisfying. There is some lively acid for sure, and a touch of heat, but it resolves very well.
Flavor:
Dark fruit compote, kirsch, vanilla oak, dark wood, balsamic, roasted nuts, blackberry, yeasty-pie spices, dough, cola, and mostly, very dark cherry and the black fruits.
Serving Options:
Drink it today! Then next week. Then the next week after that, until it’s time to BBQ!!!
2012 The Calling, Pinot Noir, Dutton Ranch
Growing Region: Russian River Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: 100% French Oak, 40% New
Suggested Retail: $37.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $33.29
Broad Strokes:
“The Calling” has a really cool story to it. Emmy award winning sports commentator Jim Nantz and wine brand builder Peter Deutsch had a chance meeting in a restaurant a couple years back and so the beginnings of this joint venture were borne. Soon the duo were travelling to California wine country and began working with one of my favorite winemakers, Marco di Guilio.
Marco got everything set up, from the vineyard to the final package in the bottle, and so “The Calling” is now calling us. A wonderful story, albeit shortened by me, but most importantly, a wonderful Pinot Noir is before us.
Appearance:
Good, heavy wine bottle with a deep punt, shows commitment to the quality of the level the team is wanting to achieve. The label colors and fonts are smart and read well. They have put their story on the back label, which I like very much . . . the story and the information given to the consumer. Good looking wine has a dark ruby hue core, and lightens out towards the rim.
Nose:
Nice dark cherry scents, with some blackberry and earth tones. Some smoke and meat character as well. Crush herbs, forest floor, sage, wood, vanilla, and beautiful spice notes, to include cinnamon and other spices.
Texture:
The wine has a classic, lovely, medium-medium rich, velvety, lovely Pinot Noir texture. It is an inescapable joy to have this silken liquid flow throw your palate systems. I guess I like the texture, huh?
Flavor:
From the Winery: “This Pinot Noir's classic flavors of fresh cherries, mushrooms, and spice are framed by rich acidity, delicate texture and powdery tannins. A classic cool-climate Pinot Noir from select Dutton Ranch vineyards in the prestigious Russian River Valley appellation”.
Serving Options:
This wine will definitely improve with 3-8 years in our cellars. Try one, come back and get 6-12 more and hide it from yourself. Try not to hear The Calling for at least a few more years!
2009 Germano Angelo, Barolo
Growing Region: Barolo, Piemonte, Italy
Varietal Blend: 100% Nebbiolo
Fermentation: Wood Barrels
Suggested Retail: $48.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $43.19
Broad Strokes:
Try as you may, you won’t find a great deal about Germano Angelo and their wines, specifically this one. That is even though they have been producing wine since 1908, nearly one hundred years, and have a well-known enoteca in Barolo, a place I have visited.
However, Barolo wines are better known than our producer may be, especially for their power and intensity. Barolo is made from Nebbiolo a black-skinned red wine grape variety most famous for creating the 'tar and roses' scent of these Barolo wines, hailing from Piedmont, in north-western Italy.
The grape's very name is evocative of its home among the misty foothills of the western Alps; the nebbia (Italian for 'fog') after which it is named frequently arrives on early October mornings, when the Nebbiolo harvest is in full swing.
Appearance:
Great looking package, elegant looking and distinctive. The wine has a beautiful pomegranate color, which is nearly grey-black at the core of the glass.
Nose:
Intoxicating aromas keep your nose bobbing back into the glass repeatedly. You will find delicate nuances of spice, perfume, flowers, wood, smoke, and stem of youthful grapevine. I even got the fragrance of sea shells, a mineral component that was quite interesting.
Texture:
A little angular until it has some air-time to let loose. It is medium in weight, and has an elegant feel in the mouth, finishing with drying tannins that beg for a food resolution.
Flavor:
Let me say it’s just delicious. Then I’ll say it has the great attributes of a fine Barolo: dark cherry fruit, wood components, dust, earth, “Black Tea” tannins, herbs and spices, and a bit of smoke. A complete picture of fine Italian wine.
Serving Options:
This will go on and on for years. Many of the Germano Barolos have historically scored in the 90-94 point range, though this particular vintage has not been rated as of yet. Best 2016-2024.
White Corn Pancake with Smoked Salmon and Ginger Cream
(serves six)
Corn Pancake
Ingredients:
- 1/3 cup all-purpose flour
- 1 tsp. cornstarch
- 1 tsp. baking powder
- 1 tsp. sugar
- 1/2 tsp. salt
- 1/3 cup white cornmeal
- 1 1/2 cup white corn kernels, blanched
- 2 eggs, separated
- 2/3 cup milk
- 1 tbsp. olive oil
Method:
- Sift together flour, cornstarch, baking powder, sugar and salt. Add cornmeal.
- Combine 1 cup of the corn kernels with egg yolks and milk.
- Puree in blender until smooth. Add to dry ingredients and mix well.
- Whip egg whites until soft peaks form and fold in along with the remaining 1/2 cup corn Heat an 8" non-stick pan over medium heat, brush lightly with oi.
- Add ¼ cup of the batter, cook until small bubbles appear, turn and continue to cook.
- Set aside in a warm place, continue cooking the remaining five pancakes.
Ginger Cream
Ingredients:
- 1 tbsp. grated ginger root
- 1 tbsp. sugar
- 1/4 cup water
- 2 tbsp. rice wine vinegar
- 1 cup creme fraiche
- kosher salt
- white pepper
Method:
- Combine ginger, sugar, water and rice vinegar in a non-reactive saucepan and reduce over medium heat until dry.
- Set aside to cool.
- Stir ginger mixture into creme fraiche and season with salt and pepper.
To Assemble Pancakes:
Ingredients:
- ¾ lb smoked salmon
- 1/4 cup minced chives
- 1/4 cup small diced fresh tomatoes
Method:
- Set pancakes in the center of six dinner plates.
- Place a heaping tablespoon of the ginger cream in the middle of each pancake.
- Top with 2 oz. smoked salmon and sprinkle the chives and tomatoes over the top.
4-2014 The WineSellar & Brasserie