Wine Club Newsletter - October 2014
One of the duties (read: perks) of being in my industry as well as providing wine tours across the globe, is that it is necessary to make journeys to various wine lands, to discover and research. Tough assignment, I know, but I’m a gamer. One recent reconnaissance, albeit abbreviated, was dedicated to Oregon, with visits to Portland and the wine country in Willamette. Some very good friends are frequenters of the area, so we took their lead, and were joined by yet another couple to make us six wine and food officers. Landing in Portland, before meeting the group in Willamette, we drove 10 minutes to Salty’s Waterfront Seafood Grill, perched on and overlooking the Columbia River. It’s a great spot to meet up with an Aunt who lives close by, the view is nice, and the service is friendly. Food is what you might expect from a chain, nothing spectacular, but a decent spot if you have a need to dine by the airport. We left straight away to Willamette Valley, stopping for a walk through the quaint town of Carlton. We strolled into the Republic of Jam and tasted our way through some excellent locally produced jams and jelly’s, and bought a few to take home. This was a really fun and interesting stop, with great products. Then we walked to the other side of town, about 150 yards, to Ken Wright Cellars for a wine tasting. Strange policies in the tasting room there, what you can and can’t buy, taste and not taste. This is most likely coming from the fact that Ken Wright is a great winemaker who sells everything he makes, and may be struggling to consider the masses with a town center tasting room. Their policies need work, but the wines don’t, they are exceptional. So off we go to our accommodations at Youngberg Hill Winery. A beautifully located structure over looking the valley from hundreds of feet above the floor . . . nice view and well appointed. The rule is no television in the rooms, and I agree. Who needs that out here? We are picked up for dinner and arrive at The Joel Palmer House, home to 4th generation restaurateur and chef Christopher Czarnecki. The family history has strong passions to wild mushrooms, which dominate the menu, even to the desserts. Throw in Foie Gras, truffle, al fresco dining, and a beautiful experience was had. Sommelier Andrea Fulton-Higgins helped us pick out two magnums of well-aged local Pinot Noirs. Waking the next morning to an absolutely fantastic breakfast at Youngberg Hill Inn, including an egg preparation we had never seen, Cornish baked eggs and honey baked bacon with some great little scone/muffins. These guys rock breakfast! At 9:45 we were ready to explore our first winery stop, Beaux Freres. We were guided by Kelly Stewart, a great host, who illustrated to us why Beaux Freres is one of the tops in the Willamette Valley. The wines generally sell out to their wine club customers, and it’s hard to get all you want. Next stop close by, was Torji Mor, rendered disappointing and uneventful by a uninterested, aloof hostess, who couldn’t muster any enthusiasm. This, even after we explained we were in the trade and truly there for tasting and buying. We carry your wines because we like them, but don’t plan to return here. Our next stop, Alexana Winery, was magical. With assistance from Jeff and Karly, the story, facilities, and wines from Alexana were all stunning. Look for Alexana wines in upcoming club selections. You have to go to Alexana, a great stop on the wine route. Lunch-time, LONG lunch time. Three hours. It’s one of our favorite activities to indulge in. Starting at noon, the plate and bottle count are not tallied. Bistro Maison was the chosen target, with its classic French offerings of escargot, frites, mussels, salads etc. All dishes are well executed, and our gracious husband wife team hosts Deborah & Jean-Jacques Chatelard made a charcuterie plate to go for us to take back to Youngberg Hill for light dinner. This was enjoyed at Youngberg Hill, with an equally untallied bottle count, leaving us crying “Uncle”. A GREAT day. Salmon hash for another great breakfast at Youngberg. We go to the Evergreen Aviation and Space Museum to tour the oft driven by spectacle on Highway 18. Worth an hour or two tour for sure, especially witnessing the mammoth Spruce Goose, and other historical aircraft. In the Space museum, it’s nearly unbelievable what our early astronauts explored our cosmos in. Basically, they were tin cans thrown into orbit. All of those explorers who signed on to risk it all were true heroes. Returning to the environment of today, we lunched at Bistro Dundee, ordering exquisitely fresh and flavorful oysters that made our local Pinot Gris sing. Solid, creative dishes made for another memorable lunch. In the same center, Ponzi winery has a tasting room. The hostess, Elizabeth Moore, was so outstanding, passionate about the wines, making it a great stop. Elizabeth recommended we visit Joe Dobbes winery on our way out, which we did of course. Our host/pourer, unnamed, and dressed with styles in a different league from us, seemed robotic and distant. That all changed at the end, when he pulled out a couple of library wine for us. We walked out with cases, including a very fine older Syrah and a very useful Grenache Blanc. Off to Portland! I will give you the Portland update in November's Wonderful World of Wine. Youngberg Hill Vineyards & Inn Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum
Growing Region: Sonoma Valley, California Broad Strokes: Appearance: Nose: Texture: Flavors: Serving Suggestions:
Growing Region: Tuscany, Italy Broad Strokes: From its roots in the Etruscan civilization, its ownership by the wealthy and respected Taja family, its sale to one of the most illustrious families of Siena, the Piccolominis, and finally to its acquisition by Jess Jackson and Barbara Banke in 1994. Now, it’s a more progressive winery, giving a nod to the “Super Tuscans” with its blending practices. Wine Advocate Review Appearance: Nose: Texture: Flavors: Serving Suggestions:
Growing Region: Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina Broad Strokes: Appearance: Nose: Texture: Flavors: Serving Suggestions:
Growing Region:Burgenland, Austria Broad Strokes: Appearance: Nose: Texture: Flavors: Serving Suggestions:
Serves Four For the Salad: (Use organic product where possible) For the Dressing:Wine & Food Sojourn to Oregon – 2014
By Gary Parker
2009 Saxon Brown Syrah, Parmelee-Hill, Owl Box
Varietal Blend: 94% Syrah, 6% Viognier
Fermentation: New and One Year Old French Oak
Suggested Retail: $38.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $34.19
I recently met with Saxon Brown owner/winemaker Jeff Gaffner and ran through his line up of wines. We have carried many of his wines in the past, as I have always been a fan of Saxon Brown. There were two Syrahs he had from 2009, each from a separate vineyards on the same hill, and I loved them both. As I tried them side by side, I thought this would be a GREAT entry for The Gary Parker Collection. First, to try them side-by-side, and second, to age them together and try them again in the future. Jeff thinks they will keep 20+ years.
Cool Syrah bottle, kind of squatty with the long thick neck. Always liked the label, but wish to see the vineyard designates in easier to read font. The Owl Box has more purple in it than the Camp Block does, and the legs drip even slower down the glass.
The nose on the Owl Box Vineyard is tighter and more focused than on the Camp Block, but quite similar. Classic Syrah nose, with notes of soil (hot stones, gravel), tar, and strapped leather, dark berry (boysenberry). Also note some smokiness, wood, prunes, cassis and chocolate.
This is a bit more angular and vertically structured, showing a strong foundation for long term cellaring. It took two hours to open up. You can detect the very ripe Syrah fruit, probably very ripe coming off the vine, and tempered by the 6% Viognier.
When it does open, this inky, black little monster shows deep, deep, dark, dark fruit, which has a significant, powerful presence (after starting off shy). The wood-notes are nice, detecting black walnut, spice, and baked pie dough. Very long, chewy finish.
Grilled steaks, pasta dishes, olives and cheese. But most of all, for drinking and aging with the sister wine from the Camp Box Vineyard. Which one is your favorite?2011 Chianti Classico, Tenuta Di Arceno
Varietal Blend: 80% Sangiovese, 16% Merlot 4% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation: 7-9 Months Oak Fermentation
Suggested Retail: $18.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $15.29
The Tenuta di Arceno estate lies in the hills of the Chianti region in central Tuscany between Florence and Siena.Tuscany is home to Italy's most renowned wines.
The 2011 Chianti Classico possesses great energy and finesse. This elaborate and sophisticated interpretation of Tuscany's most historic wine delivers bold and modern tones of vanilla spice, cedar wood and black fruit. Sweet cherry and baking spice complete a pretty picture. The plush sweetness you taste on the close is divine. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020. Score: 89.
Great looking bottle and label. The wine still possesses dark purple bubbles upon pouring.
Solid Chianti aromatics, with dark cherry fruit, mushrooms, chestnuts and forest floor. I noted scents of anise, smoke and vanilla.
Some heat on the entry, giving way to a good, full type of impression in your mouth. It evens out with a smooth, sweet and cedary feel.
Black cherry and anise on the entry, with the mushroom and earth tones offering a solid secondary flavor palette. Look for rosemary and herbs, smoke, vanilla, and dark wood.
Gimme a home made pasta with meat and tomato sauce!2011 Malbec, Capataz
Varietal Blend: 100% Malbec
Fermentation: 80% New French Oak
Suggested Retail: $46.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $40.49
“Capataz” means Vineyard Capitan” in local Argentine dialect, a name that was agreed upon for this wine project by Aria Mehrabi, who holds a young, valuable estate in Valle de Uco, and none other than Darioush Khaledi, of Darioush Napa Valley fame. The two also decided to make dense, complex, powerful, age-worthy wine from Argentina’s re-known Malbec Grape. Once you taste this wine, you’ll see they have indeed succeeded.
Big, heavy Darioush style bottle give the anticipation something special is inside. Cool graphics depicting the “Capataz” and his faithful K-9’s. Mostly easy to read label. The wine has a medium dark ruby hue on the rim, dark purple at the core.
Deep purple and Bing cherry fruit, with boysenberry, surrounded by delightful notes of wood and tobacco, gravel, soil, white pepper and plum. Check for violets as well.
Thick, rich and chewy was the final descriptor I applied after drinking the wine for over a 2 hour period. In between, I felt a tannic entry, quite firm and vibrant, growing into some silkiness with a an ensuing pomegranate like acidity.
All the senses from the nose translate to the palate: boysenberry, Bing Cherry, tobacco, cigar and the nice wood, dark wood actually. Other interesting finds were anise / fennel, chocolate and coffee (cappuccino), cinnamon rhubarb, Yes, rhubarb. Also, the pomegranate acid actually yields some pomegranate fruit flavors. Blueberry!
This brute is meant to go into the cellar and stay for ten years. But why deny yourself the chance to open and get to know this beautiful beverage. It is food friendly, and would be great with a BBQ rib eye steak, or better yet, I had it with one of our ground lamb patties in our downstairs bar, The Causal Side. Wow-Weee!2013 Höpler Pinot Blanc
Varietal Blend: 100% Pinot Blanc
Fermentation:Stainless Steel, 7% White Oak
Suggested Retail: $22.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $19.79
Last month I had the pleasure of meeting Christof Höpler while he was paying a visit to The WineSellar & Brasserie. A very humble, honest, straight shooting person, Christof happens to be producing some of the finest wines to come out of Austria. His wines are served in some of the greatest restaurants in the world today: The French Laundry, Bobby Flays Mesa Grill, Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen in London, and now The WineSellar & Brasserie.
I LOVE clear bottles and screw caps. I love labels that are understated yet say everything you need to know clearly and simply. Read the thoughtful back label. The wine is a very light yellow straw color, very clear, clean looking, and shimmers in the light.
The clean and delicate Pinot Blanc fruit is still youthful, meaning a little tight at first. It then opens up to the scent of Basque pear, honeysuckle, ginger flower, hints of green apple, mineral, and Asian spices . Also loved the fresh, rainwater like impressions.
A bit angular, until the vigor of youth is tamed by Father time, mainly in about 20 minutes after opening. There is crisp acid, and some citric-lemon-lime acid that makes the mouth water. Medium in weight, and opening up quite nicely.
There is an interesting two sides to the flavor profile that I found quite interesting. One is the mineral and chalk notes, where you can literally taste the minerals in the white, granite soil. The second profile deals with the fruit components, pear, ripe apple, and Lychee nut. The rainwater impression comes through on the palate as well.
This Pinot Blanc is meant to be consumed within a year or two of release. I would not keep it past the end of 2015, instead, I would enjoy it in its current stage with sushi, white meat dishes (chicken, pork), and especially, CHINESE FOOD!Summer Salad
I know, summer is technically over, but the weather and the produce is still saying the sunny times are here. So I have this simple salad that is refreshing, satisfying, and great for those of us who count calories or watch carefully what we eat. Great with the 2013 Höpler Pinot Blanc!