Wine Club Newsletter - November 2014
Wine & Food Sojourn to Oregon – 2014: Part Two
By Gary Parker
Leaving the Oregon wine country, sated, the cars weighted down by newly acquired wines, we make the late afternoon drive to Portland without much traffic to worry about. Arriving at our hotel, The Vintage Plaza, a Kimpton Hotel on SW Broadway, we check in to a much-needed complimentary glass of wine, and have little time until our reservation for dinner.
The Vintage Plaza is newly renovated and gorgeous. The hotel lobby is well appointed, the accommodations were excellent, and the location is convenient to many interesting walking destinations in Portland. It is highly recommended.
Dinner is at Café Castagne, owned by ex-pat San Diegan Justin Woodward. The Café Castagne is sister restaurant to Castagne, joined at the hip at the same location utilizing two separate rooms, menus, and atmosphere. The Café is the more casual of the two, offering a vast menu of little tastes. It was a little confounding at first, trying to get six people to agree on communal plates when all the menu items are designed to serve only a couple of people.
By the time we got ourselves better adjusted to the menu, my travel companion had decided to order us a good two fingers of specialty Bourbon, both before and after the dinner. After a long day of imbibing and travel, I wasn’t able to completely get satisfied with the dinner. I wanted a solid main course, and never got one . . . too little food, too much Bourbon. The food and service are both excellent; just make sure it is the type of experience you are looking for.
Waking up Saturday morning to a little fuzz in the noggin, we had a big breakfast at Pazzo, the restaurant in the Vintage Plaza Hotel. It was well prepared, and thoroughly enjoyed by all.
We then make the trek to the Farmer’s Market near Portland State University, and are wowed by the sheer size and variance of offerings. There is live music, magic acts, and a couple thousand people to watch nosing around looking at just about everything imaginable. It looks like a few regular vendors have drawn dedicated crowds, as one long line for a breakfast burrito was 60 empty stomachs deep. The wait was 15-20 minutes, perhaps not too bad with coffee in hand and 65 degrees and clear weather.
We then head to the other side of town, visiting the interesting shops in the “Pearl District.” The Pearl District is a revitalized industrial/commercial zone, to include fine furniture stores, clothing retailers, and of course, restaurants. Perfect for meandering!
Somehow, hunger sets in. Our group chooses to lunch at Andina, a gem of a Peruvian restaurant. Large in size, we didn’t feel lost in the service or the space, and loved the menu. A long list of tapas, including golden-brown shrimp, Ono ceviche and steak tartare were well executed and fresh. Two big bonuses: They hand make mojitos and margaritas, and had a very decent wine list with fair prices. We loved it here, and will go back next time we visit the area.
Walking back, we couldn’t resist further research opportunities, so we plopped ourselves into the Deschutes Brewery. Unassuming from the outside, you walk in and the place is a beehive of a couple hundred people pounding craft beers and eating beer food. We had to split up to find seats, and we were all amazed at the action the place sees on a late Saturday afternoon.
Dinner tonight, the main event, is at Beast Restaurant. This very small restaurant has become an urban legend, serving a six course fixed price menu, only, for $75. Everybody gets the same thing at the same time. This is a hard to get ticket, especially for a party of six on a Saturday night, with under 30 seats available, but there we are, feeling lucky, excited, and ready to go.
True to the hype, the first course, chilled celery soup, was glorious. However, the remaining courses did not provide the enthusiasm I had for the celery soup. Perhaps it could have been a steady pounding of three meals daily for three days, or it was rumored Chef/Owner Naomi Pomeroy was not there that night. But, it was cool to watch the kitchen execute 30-plus dish compositions at a time: 30 soups with garnish, 30 charcuterie plates, 30 racks of lamb, crab salads, cheese plates and desserts. And the servers were a great time, fun to watch their ballet.
I think it would be worth a trip back, but I would opt to either bring in my own wine or try their wine pairings. The wine list was small, expensive, and not up to the thought put into the food. For certain, more options under $70 would be nice.
The Vintage Plaza, a Kimpton Hotel
422 SW Broadway
Portland, Oregon
503-228-1212
Portland Farmers Market
Portland State University
Café Castagne
1752 SE Hawthorne Blvd.
Portland, Oregon 97214
Andina
1311 NW Glisan Street
Portland, Oregon 97209
503-228-9535
Deschutes Brewery
210 NW 11th Avenue
Portland, Oregon 97209
(503) 296-4906
Beast Restaurant
5425 NE 30th Avenue
Portland, Oregon 97211
(503) 841-6968
2010 Comanche Syrah
Growing Region: Mission Vineyard, Arroyo Seco
Fermentation: 22 months in French Oak
Price: $27.00 Less than 1,000 cases produced
Appearance:
Good, straightforward label is easy to read and is brand identifiable. The wine is dark purple and black at the core, deep magenta on the rim. Serious legs.
Nose:
Deep with red and black fruits, white pepper, vanilla oak, and constantly evolving. Coffee, earth, herbs.
Texture:
Medium to medium full in body. Smooth, yet expansive entry. Elegant, however a somewhat forceful feel. Tannins are mostly melded, but still some present. Finishes very long, with good acid for food.
Flavors:
Black fruits and a hint of black olive dominate. Some dark wood-notes are presented, mahogany, vanilla, and bittersweet chocolate. It has some dust and chalkiness, reminding me of a fine St. Joseph from the Rhone Valley. Delicious fruit still coming on after four hours of air time.
Serving Suggestions:
I really enjoy this style of Syrah. Big, bold, meaty, sometime a little angry, and then tempering down after they have time to relax and breathe.
2011 Comanche Syrah
Growing Region: Mesa Del Sol Vineyard, Arroyo Seco
Fermentation: 20 months in French & Hungarian Oak
Price: $28.00 Less than 1,000 cases produced
Appearance:
Good, straightforward label is easy to read and is brand identifiable. It is lightly lighter in hue than the 2010, especially on the rim. A by-product of the vintage, perhaps?
Nose:
Black and red fruits, more vanilla oak than 2010. Touch of Shea Butter, cherry cough syrup, Potpourri.
Texture:
Medium in body, though the wine feels larger than the color might suggest. It has a more even and viscous palate feel than the 2010, although some tannins do prevail. With its elegance, some might call it “pretty.”
Flavors:
Solid Bing cherry fruit is forward and delightful. There is a touch of black olive and herbs (rosemary, dill). Very pleasing overall. Fresh vanilla oak notes, mint, and menthol abound. The style is more California -ike (fruit forward) and does not resemble a Rhone wine as much as the 2010 does.
Serving Suggestions:
I can see myself enjoying this wine in a multitude of circumstances: with cheese and charcuterie, tomato based pasta, or slow roasted meats.
2010 Clos Du Pavillon, Montagne Saint-Emilion
Growing Region: St. Emilion, Bordeaux, France
Varietal Blend: 100% Merlot
Fermentation: One Year in 2-3 Year Old Barrels
Suggested Retail: $28.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $22.49
Broad Strokes:
Gonzague Maurice and his enologist wife Marjolaine, Director of Château Labégorce in Margaux, created their atypical Bordeaux Domaine by purchasing well-situated parcels in four Right Bank appellations, and by the third vintage, Gonzague's wines were receiving rave reviews from France's respected Guide Hachette. The WineSellar’s first vintage of this wine was the 2009, which we still have, and pour by the glass as well.
Appearance:
I really like this label! It is easy to read, straightforward, and has the etched image of the property, as in classic Bordeaux style. The wine has a dark cherry to black core, fading to a clear liquid at the very edge of the glass. Good legs . . .
Nose:
Both the flavors and aromatics of this wine are muted for about 25-30 minutes, so be patient! Sweet mahogany, a smash of herbs, cedar, tobacco, red and black fruits, black and white pepper. And a hint of vanilla.
Texture:
The texture also takes a while to evolve, though it is still very Bordeaux-like in character. Some noticeable tannins take time to meld into the fruit, as it starts off with some astringency. This wine will be excellent in a couple of years, and I recommend a 6-bottle purchase to gauge and enjoy in the upcoming 5 or so years.
Flavors:
The classic Bordeaux flavors are present, leaving one happy that enjoying the flavor of Bordeaux does not have to cost an arm and a leg. Sweet and cedar, strapped leather, toasted nuts, spice, a hint of vanilla all caress the medium-bodied red black fruit nuances. Ah, Bordeaux, how I love thee!
Serving Suggestions:
As I mentioned in the “Texture” notesthe wine needs to be laid down for a few years. But try it, make sure you like it and can see the potential, then buy more. Will be great with grilled meats!
2010 Crosby Roamann Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve
Growing Region: Napa Valley, California
Varietal Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot
Fermentation: 20 Months New Oak, No Fining/Filter
Suggested Retail: $135.00 (Only 77 cases produced!)
WineSellar Club Case Price: $121.50
Broad Strokes:
From Gary: This wine will rival ANY Gary Parker Collection wine we have ever had!
Crosby Roamann is a collaboration of the husband and wife team of Juliana and Sean W. McBride.We only make small lots of wine: nothing more than what we can produce ourselves, with help from friends and family.We get our hands dirty: we are the people picking the grapes, re-coopering the barrels, performing the punch-downs, and pressing the wines gently by hand. We pay attention to detail: there’s no guidebook; there’s no formula; there’s no recipe. We make the wines differently every year. Often they are very different wines, from each other, and from everything else available. They are unique.
Appearance:
If you buy six bottles, a gorgeous wood box is included. Incredible packaging! They take the time to individually tightly wrap each bottle and close it with their emblem. Heavy bottle, black and silver coloring. The wine is dark red/black, dripping legs.
Nose:
Nirvana Nose! You can just tell it’s going to be a winner. Some fusel, varying nose, to wild black cherry, roasted nuts, vanilla oak, always changing, complex, intriguing, more.
Texture:
GREAT STRUCTURE! Like a California-Bordeaux knockoff. Just a fabulous juicy feel that is mouth-watering. It is rich and fruit-driven (California), yet still cedary and elegant (Bordeaux). Very long finish is even and delightful, lingering for minutes. Gosh, DARN!
Flavors:
The only reason more flavors aren’t listed is there is not enough space, and I was still getting more when I finished the bottle. Dark cherry, blackberry, dark wood, vanilla, chestnut, earthen spice, ginger, ginseng, brewed dark tea, pomegranate fruit, more dark berries and wood, and, and, and . . .
Serving Suggestions:
This is why a wine can cost of $100. Everything is done by hand by two dedicated people. Drinking it becomes a memory for you, and this wine takes me back to the 1998 William Cole Cuvee Claire that we sold 48 cases of at $130 a bottle. However, I highly doubt I can get that much as Crosby produces a mere 77 cases. Call with your orders ASAP!
2013 Route 3 Chardonnay, Dunnigan Hills
Growing Region: Dunnigan Hills, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Chardonnay
Fermentation: Lightly Toasted Oak
Suggested Retail: $15.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $13.50
Broad Strokes:
Route 3 people have a great story about the generations they have been farming the land in this Dunnigan Hills Appellation, and to commemorate the land and the area, they named this project after the main highway going by the property. We don’t often have Chardonnay in our wine clubs because it is difficult to find ones that are distinctive and have quality and integrity in our price range. I am sure proud of this offering, and trust you will enjoy it as well.
Appearance:
I love the way the label depicts the Highway (Route 3) and its farmlands, as well as its color scheme. It is so perfect for the project. So is the little descriptor on the back label. The label is heartfelt, and has a soul. The wine is beautifully colored, glistens in the light, and has good viscous dripping inside the glass.
Nose:
Subtle but distinct aromas of white tree fruits, apple and pear, as well as peach, pineapple, butterscotch, nutmeg and caramel. Some notes of citrus, like in tangerine and lemon(grass). A bit of smokiness and vanilla oak are present as well.
Texture:
A lovely, creamy smooth mouth impression. From first sip to last, it comes across almost dairy-like, but with a nice crisp bit of citric acid to keep it in line. Good length on the finish, exhibiting a touch of heat.
Flavors:
Many of the aromatics come through on the palate as well. Apple and pear, caramel and nutmeg for sure. Also enjoying touches of orange/tangerine with the ripe Chardonnay fruit. Buttered popcorn, beeswax, honey, with notes of brioche, oak, smoke, and coconut.
Serving Suggestions:
The Route 3 Chardonnay is a perfect aperitif wine. Enjoy while you’re cooking, or lazing around with some appetizers. Will do well with white fish preparations with butter/citrus sauces. What a VALUE!
Dunigan Hills Chardonnay
2013 Chardonnay, $13.50
Stylistically similar to our award winning 2010 (Silver Medal 2011 SF Chronicle) , 2011 (Silver Medal 2012 CA State Fair) and 2012 Chardonnays (Silver Medal : 2014 SF Chronicle International Wine Competition) ... A smooth texture and creamy mouth feel highlight our 2013 Chardonnay. Lightly toasted oak and caramel aromas blend into flavors of crisp apple and hints of vanilla with a little smokiness on the palate. Nice balance and structure with a medium long finish make this a terrific example of classic Dunnigan Hills Chardonnay.
In 1988 Joe Muller & Sons planted their first vineyard in what is now the Dunnigan Hills AVA and in 1994 they created Yolo Vineyards as a sister company. Yolo Vineyards has continued to expand its vineyard operations and has moved to other crops. Today Yolo Vineyards farms 270 acres of wine grapes, grapevine nursery stock, super high density olive oil olive trees and walnuts.
Route 3 Wines was born in 2007 as Yolo Vineyards explored new ways to survive in an increasingly difficult wine grape market. All of the grapes used in production of Route 3 Wines come from Yolo Vineyards' historic Hucke Ranch. The Hucke (hook-key) Ranch was named after the family who originally owned the ranch and farmed dry land grain and sheep on the same hills that produce our wonderful wines today. We chose to name our wines Route 3 because we like the symbolism of the connection to our history and our commitment to the future of our farming.
Curried White Bean Soup with Wild Mushrooms
Makes 1 quart
Ingredients:
- 1 finely minced Spanish onion
- 3 finely minced garlic cloves
- 1 finely diced celery stalk
- 1 peeled and finely diced russet potato
- 1 peeled and finely diced carrot
- 1 tbsp. olive oil
- 1 tablespoon madras curry powder
- 1/2 pound small white beans, soaked overnight in water to cover
- 1 quart chicken stock (or vegetable stock)
- 1 bay leaf
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
- 1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme leaves (or 1 teaspoon dried)
- ¼ pound fresh portobello mushrooms (or any wild mushroom), thinly sliced or diced
- 1 tablespoon of local honey
Method:
- Lightly sauté the onions, garlic and celery in the olive oil until the onions are translucent.
- Add the potatoes and carrots and stir in the curry powder, sauté a bit longer.
- Add the white beans, stock and bay leaf, bring to a boil and simmer until the beans are tender, about one hour.
- Stir in the salt, black pepper and minced thyme.
- Sauté the mushrooms in olive oil and local honey, and add to the soup just before serving.