Wine Club Newsletter - January 2015
I Wanna Wanna Do Walla Walla (Part 2)
By Gary Parker
This is the 2nd and final part of our I Wanna Wanna Do Walla Walla excursion, taking place in October of 2014. If you are a new WineSellar Club member, or if anyone would like to see the Part 1 version of this journal, you can either call us, or go to WineSellar.com, where our monthly tasting notes and WineSellar Club Newsletters stories are posted.
After our delightful visit and reunion with Norm McKibben at his Pepper Bridge Winery, we drove over to Sleight of Hand Cellars winery and tasting room to catch up with Jerry Solomon there. In Part 1, I mentioned Jerry and Sandy are great friends of ours, but what I am going to describe about all things Sleight of Hand are spoken as professionally as I possibly can.
The grounds at the winery are not monumental or elaborate, rather very sensible for their somewhat youthful tenure in the industry. When entering the tasting room, the first you notice is a record player is spinning discs, and the volume is on the higher side. There are hundreds or so albums by my guess, could be more. You have the opportunity to pick out a record you want to hear, a nice touch.
But I am interested in the wines, because I know the wines are fantastic! The house style is not one of overblown, deep, dense fruit. The Sleight of Hand people strive to make wines that are properly balanced and complex.
They do this very well.
Looking over the great press and scores many of their wines have received is mind-boggling. Many wines have scored 91-96 points in various publications. The “Enchantress” 2012 Chardonnay scored 93 points in The Wine Spectator (one of the highest rated domestic white wines for the year) and a 19 out of 20 from a Washington State wine reviewer, Rand Sealy.
I tried the Enchantress Chardonnay and found it enchanting, to be sure. It reminded me of fine white Burgundy, quite similar to Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru. I also sampled their Riesling, then a Rose’ made from Cabernet Franc grapes (killer!), the Conjuror (a blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot), a smoky, sensational Merlot-Cab Franc blend called “Archimage,” 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon called Illusionist, and finally the Levitation Syrah.
I was so impressed! And I’m proud of Jerry, Sandy, and Trey. No wonder Seattle magazine called Sleight of Hand Cellars “One of the Next Cult Wineries of Washington State.” I can’t wait until we have them down here at The WineSellar & Brasserie for a Sleight of Hand Cellars wine dinner on Saturday, February 21. Call soon for reservations, it will sell out!
Dinner was at Jim German Bar, about 25 minutes outside of Walla Walla in the very small town of Waitsburg. Specialty cocktails, tapas style menu of “Etruscan Snacks” and personal service in this small venue make for an intimate, fun time with your dinner friends. Recommend you get a driver so you can fully enjoy the offerings.
Sunday breakfast is at Colville St. Pattiserie, where seemingly all the town’s people roll in to at some time to enjoy well made coffee, pastries made on the spot, and breakfast fixin’s.
Warmed and sweetened up, we then tour out to A’Maurice winery, hosted by winemaker/proprietor Anna Schafer. Stunning wines, and we will soon be carrying them in the store. Coincidently, I met Anna 6 years ago at the W2U event. My assignment was to help her with winemaking for an afternoon, but I couldn’t lift or tug because of my injury, so I was basically useless to her.
Rather than go to a Part 3, I will provide you with a short list of other stops we made.
Lunch at T Maccarones. Very good food and wine list, attractive interior. It felt very civilized.
Excellent pre-dinner cocktails at Whitehouse-Crawford Restaurant. www.whitehousecrawford.com
An interesting but very positive experience at Andrae’s Kitchen. The location and interior is a bit funky, but food is well liked by the locals for its value and flavorful offerings.
For a casual lunch in town, try Olive Market Place and Café. They make their own bread, and have items you can take for picnics, etc. www.olivemarketplaceandcafe
Dinner at Saffron: very good to excellent food, and an eclectic wine list with local and international selections. www.saffronmediterraneankitchen.com
Sleight of Hand Cellars
1959 J B George Road
Walla Walla, Wa. 99362
Jim German Bar
119 Main St.
Waitsburg, Wa. 99361
Colville St. Pattiserie
40 South Colville Street
Walla Walla, Wa. 99362
aMaurice Winery
178 Vineyard Lane
Walla Walla, Wa. 99362
T Maccarones
4 North Colville St.
Walla Walla, Wa, 99362
Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen
25 West Alder Street
Walla Walla, WA 99362
Fleuraison, Brut Blancs de Blancs
Growing Region: La Mancha, Spain
Varietal Blend: 90% White Airen, 10% Chardonnay
Fermentation: Stainless Steel Tanks in Spain, Secondary Fermentation in France
Suggested Retail: $15.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $13.49
Broad Strokes:
Here’s a most interesting concept, which creates a very nice sparkling wine. 90% of the grapes are grown in La Mancha, Spain, and then transported to the south of France in temperature-controlled tanker trucks. Then, the Chardonnay is added to the base wine, and secondary fermentation is induced under the watchful eyes of the oenologists at Badet & Clement. The overall goal is to harvest the grapes in Spain on the early side for freshness, and add the Chardonnay from France for fine tuning the fruit to acid balance of the wine. Quite successful, in my humble opinion.
Appearance:
The label color is reminiscent of Veuve Clicquot, so by association, I have a good, positive feeling about the product. And it’s interesting they call it a “Product of France” on the label. Anyway, the wine is relatively light in hue, with silver and gold tinge at the center. The bubbles are small and fine, a good sign.
Nose:
Good fruit on the nose, showing peach, apple and pear. I got a lot of floral notes, gardenia, and almond blossom, The name “Fleuraison” actually translates to flowering/blossoming, so the floral notes are apropos.
Texture:
The excellent mousse from the very fine, tiny bubbles deliver a great mouth feel. It brings a clean, fruity, yet dry sensation that is quite pleasing. Reminds one of a Spanish Cava, with more elegance, flavor and balance.
Flavors:
The solid fruit nuance from the aromatics is the same for the palate. White peach, golden delicious apple, lychee nuts, almonds, hazelnuts, sesame seeds, butter and brioche all step forward at one point.
Serving Suggestions:
Here’s a French sparkling wine that is a solid performer and had a great price, A SUPERB aperitif, it’s great with cheeses, fish and shellfish, especially oysters and shrimp cocktail. Serve it chilled, and be amazed and pleased.
2011 Clos de los Siete
Growing Region: Valle de Uco, Argentina
Varietal Blend: 56% Malbec, 14% Merlot, 12% Syrah, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot
Fermentation: 70% New & Used Oak, 30% Vats
Suggested Retail: $22.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $17.99
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: “In 1998, world famous oenologist Michel Rolland and Jean-Michel Arcaute decided to go into business. The proposition involved Argentina - a country that offered space, the possibility to plant without restriction and the potential to produce a quality wine from fine soil at an excellent price.
Their arguments were strong enough to unite seven investors, who were themselves all wine-growers. The new venture would be at Vistaflores, an estate covering 847 hectares of vineyards, in the commune of Tunuyan, a desert plain rapidly gaining international acclaim, located 80km south of the city of Mendoza. Divided into seven Bodegas, the group was named Clos de los Siete (Vineyard of the Seven) and is as ‘new world’ for the French as it’s possible to be.” This is world-class pedigree, folks!
Appearance:
The seven-pointed star on the label is no doubt a direct reflection of the famous seven partners in this venture. Classy, heavy bottle, good-looking label is direct and clear. The wine is dark garnet, with some grey hue.
Nose:
The nose seemingly explodes with dark fruits, yet it also has a sophisticated subtleness. The blend of six varietals makes the fragrances change a lot. Spicy, peppery from Malbec, ripeness from Merlot. Deep dark cherry, wood elements, black pepper and roasted nuts.
Texture:
All about the texture here, which is so fantastic! Bordeaux like in its elegance, but with intense fruit. Not too heavy, yet some creamy feel, finishing very long with good, firm acid.
Flavors:
Dark cherry and berry fruit come forth on this inky wine. Vanilla oak, strawberry balsamic, roasted walnuts and almond, molasses, and milk chocolate are just some of the cornucopia of flavors emerging from the glass. A controlled wildness. They call it a “generous wine of great delicacy,” which is very true.
Serving Suggestions:
Drink it. Buy it. Drink it. Buy 6 bottles and store for 5 years. You’ll find glory in the cellar.
2010 Toby Lane Cabernet Sauvignon
Growing Region: Alexander Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot
Fermentation: Oak Aging
Suggested Retail: $55.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $33.29
Broad Strokes:
Check out the savings on this wine from retail price at the winery. We wanted to bring the best value possible to you so you can enjoy this wonderful Cabernet Sauvignon.
The family owned winery and vineyards are in the Chalk Hill Ranch in Alexander Valley. 90 Point rating in Cellar Tracker. Only 325 cases of this wine were produced.
From the Winery:
“Toby Lane Vineyards is a fourth generation family winery and vineyard. Located in the verdant Alexander Valley just outside Healdsburg in Sonoma County, California, the Martins have cultivated grapes for almost fifty years. Once prune and apple orchards, the founders of Toby Lane had the foresight to know the Alexander Valley would produce some of the world’s greatest Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.”
Appearance:
Somewhat standard-looking label reads loud and clear, which adds value to the brand. A good-sized bottle with some nice commentary on the back label. The wine has a dark magenta hue, and only slightly lightens at the rim. Great legs.
Nose:
Blackberry, typical from the Alexander Valley, is prominent. You’ll also find dark fruits (Marionberry), hazelnut, fresh tobacco, herbs (thyme), notes of charcoal, pomegranate jelly, lavender and cocoa/cappuccino. Lovely!
Texture:
Smooth, silky and stylishly graceful palate entry is so very welcoming. It is medium in weight, with juicy, mouthwatering fruit and soft tannins. The finish has a bit of dryness to it, which foils perfectly for food.
Flavors:
Blackberry, cherry, roasted nuts, smoke, kirsch, vanilla oak, cardamom and fresh herbs are readily noticeable on the palate. The herb tones provide a trace of green, which is not stem-like or harsh, just a pleasant herb flavor. Overall, quite a gratifying bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon at a great price!
Serving Suggestions:
You can’t go wrong with this wine. The winery is saying it will be good in another 10 years or more, yet it is drinking brilliantly right now. The wine is versatile, and can combine with many dishes calling for a fine red wine.
2010 Buty, Cabernet Sauvignon, Champoux
Growing Region: Walla Walla Valley, Washington
Varietal Blend: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation: 15 Months 100% New Oak
Suggested Retail: $110.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $89.99
Broad Strokes:
Buty is pronounced same as Beauty.
Only 122 cases of this wine were made, so we have taken a good percentage of their production. The wine is no longer available at the winery, sold out, and there won’t be another Champoux Vineyard Cabernet made for the public for another few years. The fabulous wine from The Horse Heaven Hills area scored 92 Points in Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate.
Appearance:
Good looking label depicting the terrain of the Phinney Hill and Champoux Vineyards, one would presume. Nice story about Nina Buty on the back label. Good sized, weighty bottle. The wine is a dark garnet, perfectly hued for its age.
Nose:
Very perfumed nose, with the scent of black currants, rose petals, and a nice touch of vanilla oak. One staffer likened the nose to the dried blueberries one can find at Costco. Another to fresh pomegranate. Every one of my staff that tried it gave out a blissful moan when they first put their nose to the glass; present company included.
Texture:
The wine has a rich, full in the mouth palate feel, without going over the top. The balance is exquisite, with solid, intense fruit playing off the well-integrated tannins and acids. This type of texture makes my mouth water and leaves me wanting to sip more frequently. In other words, it’s dangerous that way.
Flavors:
The blackcurrant from the nose transmits directly to the flavor profile. It’s pure, direct Cabernet Sauvignon fruit without any hint of green bell pepper. In fact, I did not detect any greenness, either with the green bell pepper or any form of herbs. The gorgeous fruit is rich and full, again, without going too big.
Serving Suggestions:
When we sell out of this wine, it’s all gone. The winery has no more 2010 Buty, and the distributor has no more either. So I suggest you if you like this wine and want to cellar it for 10-15 years, you make arrangements to acquire some as soon as possible.
Tamarind Glazed Lamb Kebabs with Three Colors Quinoa Salad
Serves 6
Lamb Skewers
- 2 ½ lb leg of lamb, cut into cubes
- 1 tablespoon fresh shallots, minced
- 1 tablespoon fresh garlic, minced
- 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped
- 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped
- 1 tablespoon coriander seed, crushed
- 2 teaspoon salt
- 1 teaspoon black pepper
- ½ cup olive oil
- 12 each 6-inch wooden skewers
Tamarind Glaze
- ½ cup tamarind paste
- 1 cup orange juice
- 1 tablespoon dijon mustard
- 1 tablespoon mild red chili powder
- 1 tablespoon cumin powder
Quinoa Salad
- 2 cups tri-colored quinoa, or regular quinoa
- 1 pint cherry tomatoes, cut in half
- ½ cup black olives, chopped
- ½ cup fresh parsley, chopped
- ½ cup roasted almonds, chopped
- ¼ cup Olive Oil
- 2 each lemons
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 teaspoon black pepper
Method:
- Mix the cubed lamb together with the shallots, garlic, rosemary, parsley, coriander seed, salt, pepper and olive oil and let it marinate for two hours, preferably overnight. Once the lamb has marinated, pierce the cubes with the wooden skewers. Stack each skewer full of lamb cubes.
- To make the Tamarind Glaze, mix all the ingredients into a small sauce pot and place over a medium-high heat. Let this mixture simmer until 90% of the liquid evaporates. Be sure to stir frequently.
- To make the Quinoa Salad, cook the quinoa according to the instructions on the package. After fully cooked, strain out any excess water and chill the quinoa in the refrigerator until fully cool.
- Once the quinoa is fully cooked and cooled, mix in cherry tomatoes, olives, parsley, almonds, and olive oil. Squeeze in some lemon juice and then season with salt and pepper. Give the salad a taste and season with more lemon juice and salt as needed.
- To prepare the lamb, preheat your grill on high. Place the lamb skewers onto the grill to sear the first side. Once this side is seared, flip them over and sear the other side. While the other side is searing, brush the skewers with the tamarind glaze. Flip them back over and glaze that side. Continue to flip the skewers over glazing each side over again until the glaze starts to crystalize onto the meat.
- Remove from grill and place onto a platter. Serve with quinoa salad and enjoy!
Recipe from Silver Oak Winery