Wine Club Newsletter - April 2015
Garagiste of Wine
By Gary Parker
Garagiste. (garage-east) Noun, France
French word for a person working in a garage.
The term “Garagiste” has become a common one for those of us in the wine trade, but is still widely unknown to those who are not in the trade or even to those who are serious about all things wine.
It was originally used as an insult or a slant to smaller, upstart wine producers in Bordeaux, France, who did not follow the entrenched protocol for making wine in their region. There was (and still is) a lot of animosity from the established Chateaux about these rule breaking renegades for making small amounts of wine using unalike methods, creating (usually) bolder, brasher styles of wine, all the while shunning many decades of local tradition.
The Garagiste origins began toward the end of the 20th century, most notably in the late 1990’s when a famous wine critic rated a Garagiste wine, the 1995 Chateau Valandraud, higher than the most expensive and sought-after Bordeaux wine, Chateau Petrus.
This momentous event changed some of the landscape of winemaking in Bordeaux, and soon, many Garagiste want-to-be’s were doing their garage winemaking.
I witnessed this disdain between the two camps first hand, all the way back to 2001, where I was leading a tour group on a tasting through the Bordeaux appellation of Saint-Emilion. We stopped at Chateau Teyssier for a tasting, hosted by owner/British implant John Maltrose.
While sampling his excellent wines, he explained to us how and why he broke with long-established local winemaking techniques. First, he was an outsider, and wasn’t subjected to generational teachings of winemaking in Saint-Emilion. And second, he wanted to make a bigger style of wine with more wood influences.
This didn’t go over too well with the locals, and he and his wife were seemingly socially isolated. John said while all the children play together, the other vintners won’t talk to him because he breaks the mold of what their image of Saint-Emilion wines are supposed to be. Over a decade later, some of John’s neighbors have softened their stance, while others are still mired in tradition and resentment.
Throughout the course of a couple decades or so, the excitement and exposure of these wines have brought on would-be Garagiste whose products have been less than superior, while still commanding higher prices. This has had a negative impact on the Garagiste image, and has had some wine journalists and critics proclaiming Garagiste as a fad or cult rage, and is losing steam in the market.
Many of the unsuccessful Garagiste projects have been weeded out, and the truly great ones have continued on. In reality, all wines of quality and value will make the rise steadily and assuredly.
In California, the term “Garagiste” is not so frowned-upon. In fact, being a rebel, a creator, a trailblazer, is basically the American way of life. Larger, established wineries are just that, established and don’t seem largely threatened. They too have recently blazed their own trails, and in the young, evolving world of wine in the United States, change happens every day. Innovations and discoveries are welcomed, as all producers of wine are always looking for ways to improve their products.
I recently attended The Garagiste Wine Festival in Solvang that was open to both the trade and the general public. This was no ordinary wine tasting. In attendance were over 60 small producers from Santa Barbara and nearby environs, each of whom produce somewhere between 25 to 1,000 cases of wine a year.
They were eagerly pouring their hearts into the glasses of over 250 curious, excited wine lovers, yours truly included. It was exciting to see the different ideas from these pioneers of my industry. Some wines were really exceptional, others less so. But I did not encounter a single wine I wouldn’t enjoy drinking at one time or another. I think that is really special, and a testament to the unspoken camaraderie fellow winemakers in the United States seem to enjoy.
It was a noted contrast to me to see many of these producers slipping in between hand lugging cases of wine from the parking lot two hours before the event, and then later to be held in reverence by those tasting their wines. And then lugging their wines and presentation materials back to the parking lot on their own an hour after the event.
Many of these people are struggling with finances at their early stages in a hopeful career, while others still hold on to their day jobs. Others are fully committed, and it’s a make-it-or-break-it attitude, all in or all out. Very brave!
It will be interesting to see what becomes of this group of innovators. Who are the ones who will “make it?” Who are the ones that will “make it big?” Time will tell. I know I will be doing business with a more than one California Garagiste in the near future.
Gary Parker, Owner
The WineSellar & Brasserie
2009 Amarone, Grotta Del Ninfeo, Domenico Fraccaroli
Growing Region: Veneto, Italy
Varietal Blend: 70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 5% Molinara
Fermentation: Oak Aging for 24 Months
Alcohol Content: 16%
Suggested Retail: $70.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $62.99
Broad Strokes:
Amarone della Valpolicella is a rich, dry Italian red wine from the Veneto region. It is produced primarily from the Corvina grape. Amarone is characterized by ripe, bold flavors. Directly after harvest, the grapes are air-dried through a process called “appassimento,” which allows them to shrivel into raisins. This concentrates the sugar and flavors in the grapes, producing a distinctive and full-bodied wine well-suited to aging.
It is often said that you can safely forget an Amarone in your wine cellar. Even average Amarones can be aged for 10-15 years. Depending on the vintage and aging technique, wines of exceptional quality can be enjoyed up to 30-50 years after bottling!
Appearance:
Classic Italian label, with etchings of buildings and statues. Packaging is very nice overall, and has an authentic feel to it. The wine is very, very dark all the way through.
Nose:
It is deeply perfumed with ripe maraschino cherries, black plum and licorice. It reminds me of port with its intensity. Complex, deep and rich!
Texture:
It is full-bodied, rich, dense, but with a nice fruit ripeness that takes away any thoughts or notions of your being overpowered by tannins or acid. Quite easy to engage in, even though the alcohol is so high. Has a nice creamy mouthfeel to it.
Flavors:
Ripe black plum, vanilla oak, black licorice, prunes, and roasted almonds gives this monster an almost savory feel to it. Fresh herbs, cherry cough drops, mineral and lots of chocolate came forward in the later hours. Ultimately, for me, it ends up like a root beer float on steroids.
Serving Suggestions:
10-30 years of cellaring, you beloved Gary Parker Collection friends!
2011 Chateau Les Paris
Growing Region: Sainte-Foy Bordeaux
Varietal Blend: 40% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc
Fermentation: Barrel-Aged
Alcohol Content: 13.5%
Suggested Retail: $25.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $20.69
Broad Strokes:
Sainte-Foy-Bordeaux is an appellation located at the eastern edge of the Bordeaux wine region in south western France. It produces dry wines, both red and white, of average quality. It can be argued that Sainte-Foy-Bordeaux is more properly part of the Bergerac region, being situated outside the natural eastern boundary of Bordeaux and just a few miles west of Bergerac. In addition, the red wines of Sainte-Foy-Bordeaux are very similar to red Bergerac.
Appearance:
A great, contemporary-looking label and foil cap, still exuding France and Bordeaux. The font on the front in front is too small and too French to read, but I could make out the English words on the back. It has a medium cherry hue, with some lightness at the edges.
Nose:
It has a lovely nose of violets, fresh plum, and bright cherry. I also detected molasses and tree syrup, which I really enjoyed. My sense is that the Sainte-Foy Region is noted for producing white wines that have “Noble Rot”, meaning late harvest wines whereupon the grapes are affected with mold. I think some of those spores transfer to the red wine grapes, hence the molasses and tree syrup sensations.
Texture:
It is medium to medium-light in weight. The wine is smooth and even, and seemingly ready to drink now. The proprietors want us to age it 6-8 years, but I am thinking it is going down very easily in its current condition. It has that Bordeaux texture that I love so much: elegant, and evenly balanced between fruit, acid, and wood.
Flavors:
The palate entry is filled with bright cherry fruit and dark berry fruits. It is mellow and inviting you to take another sip. Deliciously tempting with fresh plum, raspberry and some notes of chocolate.
Serving Suggestions:
Drink this now! I love sipping on this wine, as it provides easy drinking, yet it is also quite versatile. Great with foods of all sorts, but also a nice wine to have on its own.
2011 Valpolicella, Grotta Del Ninfeo, Superior Ripasso, Domenico Fraccaroli
Growing Region: Veneto, Italy
Varietal Blend: 50% Corvina, 40% Corvinone, 5% Rondinella, %5 Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation: 80% Slovenian Oak, 20% French Oak
Alcohol Content: 12.5%
Suggested Retail: $30.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $26.09
Broad Strokes:
The red wines of Valpolicella are from the more Northern parts of Italy and have a lot to offer for anyone who is a fan of rich, fruit-filled wines. This is NOt the $3 Valpolicca from yesteryear! The baked cherry, plum flavors and the rich texture are similar to really good Zinfandels from California. This “Baby Amarone” wine, Valpolicella Ripasso, is a much more affordable way to experience the richness and sensuality that is distinctly Amarone.
Appearance:
Classic Italian label, with etchings of buildings and statues. Packaging is very nice overall, and has an authentic feel to it. The wine is dark red, with black at the core and magenta at the rim of the glass.
Nose:
The fragrance of this wine brought a lot of fun things to mind: ripe dark berries, root beer, vanilla cream soda, Dr. Pepper, maple, key lime pie, kiwi, nutmeg, cinnamon, and cardamom.
Texture:
I like the texture of this wine quite a bit. It is even, balanced and smooth, with good fruit richness. Medium in weight, the texture is lush and seamless.
Flavors:
Mature, ripe plummy fruit is foremost, with sweet leather, vanilla oak, black licorice, meat pie, prunes, and roasted almonds are delightful. It has a lot of depth, and evokes a yeasty, sweet-tart character amidst all the spices (nutmeg, clove, cardamom). It’s just delicious!
Serving Suggestions:
Keeping for 6-9 years in our cellars, today it is great with pasta with red sauces, olives, cheese, and grilled red meats. Surprise your friends with a real Valpolicella!!!
2012 Alysian Sauvignon Blanc, Floodgate Vineyard, North Face
Growing Region: Russian River Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
Fermentation: 80% Stainless Steel, 20% New Oak
Alcohol Content: 14%
Suggested Retail: $18.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $14.39
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: Floodgate Vineyard is located in the heart of Russian River Valley’s most coveted sub-appellation known as the Middle Reach. It is here where the region’s most prestigious vineyards reside and where the most highly acclaimed producers source their fruit. This is one of our estate properties, and the future home to our new production facility. From Gary: Excellent Sauvignon Blanc, reminding me a fine Pouilly-Fume’ from France!
Appearance:
California typically bottle Sauvignon Blancs in the Bordeaux or Cabernet Sauvignon shape bottles, so it keeps tricking me at first glance. In France with Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume’ (the other Sauvignon Blancs) they use this shape bottle but most often the glass has a green or lighter hue. The wine is nearly clear. Good-looking label, however the crest on the label doesn’t pop. Needs color contrast
Nose:
Very fragrant aromatics of tropical fruits, fresh herbs, hibiscus and pineapple. Little hints of the wood come through after the initial volatility vanishes. Nose gets totally amazing after two hours’ air time.
Texture:
Medium in weight, it is edgy, even a bit bitey at first, Like the nose, this youngster needs some air time to level off. Firm and well-structured.
Flavors:
This is defiinitley more of a French-style Sauvignon Blanc bringing Sancerre and Pouily-Fume into my thoughts. Green apple, some tropical fruits, eucalyptus, hint of crème’-brulee, sesame seed and fresh herbs.
Serving Suggestions:
Even though this is a 2012, it is a young little monster that needs to settle down with an hour of air time or another couple years in the bottle. Yes, it will continue to develop as it ages. Have with cheese, white-fleshed fish, composed salads.
2012 Moulin-A-Vent, Les Michelins, Domaine Johann Lardy
Growing Region: Beaujolais, Burgundy, France
Varietal Blend: 100% Gamay
Fermentation: Barrel Aged
Alcohol Content: 12.5%
Suggested Retail: $25.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $21.59
Broad Strokes:
Moulin-a-Vent is arguably the most noteworthy of the ten Beaujolais crus, located in the very north of the Beaujolais region. Moulin-a-Vent wines, made from the Gamay grape variety, are known for being some of the most concentrated and tannic made in Beaujolais, a far cry from the light, simple Beaujolais Nouveau wines. Floral and fruit-driven in youth, these wines often develop spicy, earthy characteristics as they age. I have a personal love affair with Moulin-A-Vent, as I have cellared some of these with outstanding results.
Appearance:
Very fine-looking label, with the low profile and clean, clear lettering which is easy to read. That is, except for the Johan Lardy signature. That’s OK, I think after this, his first vintage, the signature will become much more recognizable. Nice info on the back of the label to catch up on. The wine is dark red with grey hues, and is dark at the core.
Nose:
Beautiful aromatics jump from the glass and take you smack-dab to Beaujolais. It is almost inky on the nose, with blackberry jelly, ripe Bing cherry, floral aromatics (rose, violets), with sweet vanilla, strapped leather, nutmeg, and tones of dark, earthen soil.
Texture:
Rich in fruit, there is a lively acidity that balances the silky texture very well. It is slightly restrained for an hour or so, then opens up very well. The finish has a bit of dryness to it, perfect for taking in foods. Chunky, yet elegant and sublime.
Flavors:
From the nose, you can discern the blackberry jelly, ripe Bing cherry, sweet vanilla, earth flavors. Adding to the mix, ripe plums, chocolate, tar, hazelnut and a touch of cranberry. This wine is totally cool.
Serving Suggestions:
As I mentioned, the wine will age very well, 5-8 years. You can drink half one day, and the other half may be even better the next day. Great with lamb dishes, ripe, artisanal cheese, red meats, charcuterie, pastas . . .
Poached Salmon and Watercress Salad with Dill-Yogurt Dressing
Here’s a healthy recipe from Health Magazine.
Serve with the 2012 Alysian Sauvignon Blanc
Ingredients:
- 1 celery stalk, cut into 2-inch pieces
- 1 bunch scallions, greens sliced into 1/2-inch pieces, whites left whole, divided
- 1 lemon, halved: cut half into slices, zest and juice remaining half (1/2 teaspoon zest, 1 tablespoon juice), divided
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
- 3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided
- 4 (6-ounce) salmon fillets, skinned (about 2 inches thick)
- 1/2 cup plain low-fat yogurt
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill plus 1/2 cup fronds, divided
- 1/2 teaspoon grated fresh horseradish
- 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 bunches watercress, thick stems removed (about 8 cups)
- 1 cup sugar snap peas, thinly sliced crosswise (3 ounces)
- 1 small bunch radishes, sliced (1 1/2 cups)
Method:
- Fill a high-sided skillet or large pot with 6 cups water; add celery, scallion whites, and lemon slices to pot.
- Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Bring to a boil over high heat; cover, reduce heat, and simmer. Cook until fragrant (8-10 minutes). Add salmon (water should just cover fillets) to pot; cover and gently simmer until fish is opaque (5-8 minutes).
- With tongs or a fish spatula, remove salmon from broth; set aside on a cutting board to cool.
- While fish is poaching, make the dressing: In a medium bowl, combine yogurt, chopped dill, horseradish, lemon zest, lemon juice, oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper, whisking well.
- Arrange watercress, snap peas, radishes, and dill fronds on 4 plates; top with salmon, and sprinkle with scallion greens.
- Drizzle with dressing; serve.