Wine Club Newsletter - September - 2012
How to Keep an Open Bottle Fresh
by Beverley Blanning MW
Here’s a neat article from Decanter Magazine I wanted to share with you about how to keep wine as fresh as possible after opening the bottle. I do find myself with a previously opened bottle of wine hanging around, generally in the refrigerator.
GP
Normally, a wine drinker only needs to think about the temperature for serving, which glasses to use and whether or not to decant, all of which are matters of personal preference.
But this simple state of affairs becomes more complicated if the bottle you have opened remains unfinished - especially if it's one worth keeping.
In fact, the chemistry involved is pretty straightforward: oxygen is the single culprit for a wine's deterioration after opening. Beneficial in small doses - or even large ones for some wines - oxygen will progressively have a deleterious effect on quality. So, is there a single best way to preserve wine? To help me answer this, Decanter sent me six bottles of three different wines to test with a range of stoppers. Many products claim to keep wine fresh, but there are only two ways to do this. The most basic method is to put something in the neck of the bottle to prevent fresh oxygen getting into the wine. But this does nothing to prevent the oxygen already in the bottle from oxidizing the wine, so the emptier the bottle, the less effective this will be. More complex innovations aim to remove as much oxygen as possible from the bottle before sealing it.
This is done either via vacuum or by adding inert gas to displace the oxygen and form a protective blanket over the surface of the wine. There are several different vacuum products on the market. Cheap and easy to use, they are a one-off purchase. The disadvantages are that it will never be possible to remove all the oxygen in the bottle and, in any case, the effectiveness of a vacuum must be balanced against the harmful effect of submitting a wine to the violence of the vacuum process. If a wine is 'over-vacuumed', its desirable volatile aromas are literally sucked out. One would imagine that using inert gas should give a better result, as this is often used in wineries to protect wine during the winemaking process. This is a more expensive option, but has the advantage that it can be used in any container (such as a decanter).
For the experiment I chose three vacuum-style stoppers and two inert gas systems, along with the bottle's original stopper. Taking three contrasting wines, I opened six bottles of each, tasted them to ensure they were all consistent, recorded my notes, and then left them open for an hour to simulate a drinking environment.
The wines were each sealed with a different closure before being opened again 24 hours later, retasted, left open for a further hour, and then resealed. This process was repeated on 48, 72 and 96 hours.
The Wines
Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand 2007 (13% abv, screwcap)
Bouchard Pere et Fils Fleurie, Beaujolais, France 2006 (13% abv, agglomerate cork)
Clos de los Siete, Mendoza, Argentina 2006 (15% abv, natural cork)
The Stoppers
Vacuum stoppers: 'Menu' Vacuum, Gard'Vin On/Off, Vacuvin
Gas stoppers: Private Preserve, Pek Preservino
The Results
Original closures:
It was impossible to say if any of the wine's original stopper was superior as, in terms of how the wines developed, more seemed to depend on the wine than the closure. But it's fair to say that all three original closures performed less well than the manufactured stoppers, and for wines where preservation of the original aroma is key, it's important to use a stopper that removes oxygen.
Sauvignon Blanc:
After 24 hours there were clear and startling differences in the aromatic profiles of the six Sauvignon Blancs. Most noticeable were the variations in the wine's pungent, grassy aromas, which were most pronounced on the bottle resealed with the original screw cap, and almost absent from bottles sealed with gas. The latter had more delicate and floral aromatics. The vacuum-sealed wines also had these floral aromas, but seemed to have developed more of green pungency than the gas preservers. The Sauvignon Blancs were pleasantly drinkable after a day, though the commercial stoppers all prolonged the freshness of the wine more effectively than the bottle's original screw cap. The third and fourth day showed progressive deterioration of the wine. All but the screw capped wine remained drinkable, but the bottle sealed with the Private Preserve gas cylinder remained much fresher than any of the others.
Beaujolais:
This crisp, lightweight wine with crunchy fruit was acceptable (even improved) after a day's storage under all the alternatives, though the bottle resealed with the cork was less fresh than the others. Although the fruit was still vibrant, it seemed rounder and softer after 48 hours. The best wines appeared to be those sealed with the Vacuvin and Private Preserve, and this was still the case into the third day.
By the fourth day, they were all tiring.
Argentinian blend:
This big, densely colored wine is high in alcohol and oak tannins. When first opened, its aromas ranged through oak, violets, coconut, black cherry, blackcurrants and spice. Although the wine tasted perfectly fine from all of the stoppered bottles on day two, it never regained the complexity of aroma or flavor of the first day.
The Private Preserve and Gard'Vin preserved the flavor and freshness best.
Conclusion:
This limited trial shows that while there are significant differences in the stoppers' performance, all gave better results than merely sticking the cork back in the bottle or resealing it with its original screw cap. And while it's hard to come to any firm conclusions on which option (vacuum or gas) works best for which wines, the Private Preserve gas cylinder came out as the best way to keep our three types of wine fresher for longer.
2011 Lagar de Cervera, Albariño, Rias Baixas (September, 2012 - The WineSellar Club)
Growing Region: Rias Baixas, Spain
Varietal Blend: 100% Albariño
Fermentation: Steel Tank Fermentation
Suggested Retail: $20.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $16.19
Broad Strokes:
We’re seeing more and more Albariño (al-baa-ree-nyo) hitting the US shores from Spain, and rightfully so. A delicious and refreshing white wine that is easy on the palate and the pocketbook. The Rias Baixas (ree-ahs buy-shuss) region of Spain is located in Galicia, in the northwest region of Spain. It is a gorgeous and lush green area along the Atlantic seacoast. Rias Baixas translates to lower estuaries, and the Albariño is the signature grape varietal for the area.
2011 was an excellent vintage for the Albariño in Rias Baixas region. The mild temperatures allowed the fruit to hang for a longer period of time, allowing the fruit to develop additional depth and complexity.
Appearance:
Very Spanish like packaging, including the label with the brilliant sun setting into the ocean with a gold sky. The embossed press on the shoulder depicts the sizeable old wood and cement press (Lagar) at the winery. The wine itself is brilliant and clear, with hues of straw and tinges of green. It holds onto the bowl of the glass very well.
Nose:
Like a fresh grape off of the vine, blessed with some nutty, toasted almond characteristics that are quite pleasing. With tropical notes, honeydew melon and white tree fruit, there is a good touch of mineral and crush herbs as well. It gives me very good, delicious impressions.
Texture:
The medium-to-medium lightweight of the wine is appealing. It almost feels like a “Sprite” without the bubbles and a stronger line of acid. It is clean feeling and even balanced from the entry all through the very fine, long lasting finish.
Flavor:
Bright mineral and orchid fruit on the palate is delectable! Concentrated, focused fruits of pear and apple glide over the palate much like an adult version of “Sprite”. Tropical fruit nuances (Lychee nut and green papaya) meld with a citrus note much like a Mandarin lime.
Serving Options:
Albariño, especially those from Rias Baixas, are refreshing and cooling to the palate. This makes them an ideal aperitif, and also to accompany spicy cuisines from around the world, including Indian, Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese. Of course, seafood dishes, chicken and veal dishes would excel as well. The wine is meant to consume in its youth, so go get ‘em!
2008 Buil & Giné, Giné Giné (September, 2012 - The WineSellar Club)
Growing Region: Priorat, Spain
Varietal Blend: 60% Carignan, 40% Grenache
Fermentation: Varietals Separately Fermented in Oak
Suggested Retail: $25.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $17.99
Broad Strokes:
In the winter of 1996, the Buil and Giné family decided to return to wine making in the Priorat region of Spain. The dream came to fruition in 1998, when they produced their first wine, Giné Giné 1997. The wines name consists of their grandfathers last two names.
Priorat is now one of the most happening wine regions in Spain, but one which fairly recently gone through huge transition. Old-style Priorat had a reputation for being rough and massively alcoholic, but since the 1990s things have changed, and now the best wines from this region are some of Spain’s most sophisticated and sought-after reds. It was awarded the DOC in 2001 (it had been a DO since 1975).
Appearance:
I love the label; it is very contemporary and could belong in Italy, or Spain. The name Giné Giné is cool, and so is the ‘g’ on the label. Also, I like the screw cap. The wine is dark and impressive looking, with a black, opaque core and just a few millimeters of brilliant crimson on the edge. The legs are thick, slow running down the glass, and are clear.
Nose:
The aromatics are quite sturdy, firm and do not yield much in the beginning. However, as it opens up, it starts with a very nice floral note, specifically that of a fresh rose petal. As the meat of the scents come about, dark berry fruit and vanilla oak tones rise from the glass. Rich and full, we gain white and black pepper, and a crush of herb. Fantastic!
Texture:
The wine is medium full in body and weight. Like the nose, it seems to come in soft at first blush, but becomes much more expansive in just a few minutes. Some youthful acidity is still present, backed by a firmer line of acid, giving the now well emerging dark fruits an excellent structure on which to lay their attributes. Smooth through the palate.
Flavor:
Rich, dark berry fruit is powerful as it bounces off the oak and wood notes. Dark cherry fruit is lightly laced with anise and tarragon. Interesting spices, including cinnamon, black and white pepper, with hot stones and minerals galore. Got a nice touch of soy sauce, even beef jerky with a gamey note. Seems like the Grenache dominates the entry, and the Carignan dominates the finish. The floral components from the nose remind you of roses and violets.
Serving Options:
What a wine at what a price! This is a total winner, and belongs in your home in case quantities for both near term and longer term (3-6 years) drinking. A good steak or ripe cheeses would be powerfully good.
2009 Chateau de Paraza ‘Cuvee Speciale’ (September, 2012 - The Two Rouge Club)
Growing Region: Minervois, France
Varietal Blend: 40% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre
Fermentation: Barrel Fermentation
Suggested Retail: $14.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $9.90
Broad Strokes:
Chateau de Paraza belonged to the De Girard family since the 17th century, until it was acquired by the Danglas family in 2006. The estate is situated in the heart of Minervois, overlooking the plain of the Aude River. Minervois is one of France’s oldest Mediterranean vineyards, dating back to the Roman era. Chateau de Paraza is intertwined with the history of the Languedoc region; for example, during the reign of King Louis XIV in the 17th century, Paraza was the home of the great engineer Paul Riquet who constructed the famous Canal du Midi, connecting the Mediterranean with the Atlantic Ocean. Today, the canal can be admired from the seven terraces of the chateau, which were built by Riquet as a gesture of thanks to his hosts at Chateau de Paraza.
Appearance:
Good looking package overall. The label reminds me a high end Bordeaux, perhaps like Chateau Margaux, with the etching of the Chateau and so forth. The foil like letters are hard to read in certain light, and just happen to be the most important words. The wine has a bright dark cherry hue, with long, staining drips going down the bowl.
Nose:
A lot is happening with this wine, fragrance wise. The thing I like the most is how the soil from the vineyards seems to translate through the wine: clay, rocks, and mineral notes are certainly present. And then notes regarding yeast: dough, wheat, bread (perhaps grilled), followed by maple, walnut, cola and more wood. Then comes in the dark fruits of boysenberry and currant.
Texture:
This has a lovely feel in the palate. It is very smooth, silken, and stays long in the mouth with its earthy, elegant feel. The texture makes you take notice, and feels very friendly.
Flavor:
Fresh dark cherry, spices, wood, vanilla, black pepper, olive and cherry cola. Then lets go to the nose to describe the flavor on the palate. Clay, rocks, and mineral notes, yeast, dough, wheat, bread (perhaps grilled), followed by maple, walnut, cola and more wood. Then comes in the dark fruits of boysenberry and currant.
Serving Options:
Another fantastic value, this is a heck of a wine for the price tag. You don’t want to age this much at all, and keep food offerings on the lighter side so that fabulous texture and fragrances don’t get overwhelmed.
2006 Bodegas Felix Callejo Reserva (September, 2012 - The Two Rouge Club)
Growing Region: Ribera del Duero, Castilla Leon, Spain
Varietal Blend: 100% Tempranillo
Fermentation: 18 Months French Oak
Suggested Retail: $45.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $40.49
Broad Strokes:
The Felix Callejo family has been growing grapes for 4 generations with little changes. Grapes are still carefully tended, selected and handpicked. The family owns 60 Has in Sotillo de la Ribera, the very heart of Ribera del Duero, planted with some of the best vines in the region. The age of the vines range from 25 to 65 years. The vines are planted at almost 2800 feet, some of the highest planted in the region, and don't receive any artificial irrigation. No pesticides or fertilizers are used in the Estate.
“The 2006 Reserva was sourced from vines over 50 years of age raised in French oak for 20 months. Purple-colored, it sports a brooding bouquet of sandalwood, Asian spices, mineral, black cherry, and blackberry. Layered, already complex, and elegantly styled, it will continue blossoming for several more years and offer a drinking window extending from 2013 to 2026.” 91 Points, The Wine Advocate
Appearance:
Very much Spanish looking label, perhaps a bit more care could have been taken with the fonts and printing to make the label a bit more readable. The wine beautiful and dark, and to me, it looks a bit younger than something from 2006.
Nose:
The nose is both gorgeous and wild, exotic and fabulous! Black fruits, cappuccino/espresso, cured tobacco, very perfumed, with sweet plum fruit, cola and black cherry. The nose is so fantastic that I wish my nose was in my mouth.
Texture:
Oily and large, very large, but balanced and has some youthful zesty acid to it. There is some heat on the finish, but never mind that. It’s an expansive, world class wine that feels more like something from the Margaux region of Bordeaux that any Spanish wine I have ever had . . . and some Margaux, for that matter!
Flavor:
Sweet, ripe plum, dark cherry, coffee and vanilla oak. What more could you ask for? Well, how about a nice gamey touch to it, with some mahogany, chocolate, mushroom, cola and root beer. The wine is totally amazing, and needs to be in our wine cellars for about 5-8 more years.
Serving Options:
What more can I say? I love this wine: The fragrance is exceptional, as is the texture and flavors. We can’t go wrong having 6-12 bottles of this over the next 6-9 years or so!
2006 Fattoria Poggiopiano, Rosso di Sera (September, 2012 - The Gary Parker Collection)
Growing Region: Tuscany, Italy (Super Tuscan)
Varietal Blend: 90% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino
Fermentation: 18 Months French Oak
Suggested Retail: $75.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $65.69
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: “Sangiovese, an irascible, capricious and stubborn variety, is still capable of absorbing the characteristics of the soil in which it grows, transforming the limestone and marl that had always impoverished this land into marvellous essences, which are the region’s most sumptuous and representative expression.
Our wines are produced in a restored 19th century cantina furnished with cutting-edge avant-garde technology, but which also uses equipment that most have by now abandoned, such as the cement vats that are still capable of guaranteeing excellent results today.”
“I was quite taken with Poggiopiano’s 2006 Rosso di Sera, (90% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino). This opaque, full-bodied red flows with masses of super-ripe dark fruit layered with scents of new leather, graphite and French oak. The wine possesses superb density and richness in a full-bodied, intense style. The tannins from the oak remain rather firm and unyielding at this stage, but in a few years’ time the 2006 Rosso di Sera should begin strutting its stuff. The long, polished finish is that of a first-class wine. This is a remarkable effort from Poggiopiano. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021.” 94 Points, The Wine Advocate.
Appearance:
Very fine packaging overall, but it seems to me you would want the vintage on the front designed label, as well as the producers name in larger font. The wine is so pretty! Dark garnet, brilliant, and the clear drips down the bowl are satin like and clear.
Nose:
A very elegant nose, sophisticated, with currant, dark wood, cocoa, roasted nuts (Macadamia and peanuts) and coffee. One taster was reminded of a chocolate walnut brownie. A hint of mint and yeast were present also.
Texture:
The texture is no less than incredible. Great structure, with the elegance and feel of a Super Tuscan, with its splendid and totally integrated acids, tannins and fruit. Balanced, superb!
Flavor:
Some soil flavors come through well: clay, chalk, dark earth and the mint/herbs. Spices such as cardomom play friends to the vanilla oak, and fruit of kirsch and currant. Lead pencil/graphite, a note of chocolate, as the depth and richness of this wine continues to unveil new complexities. Marvelous
Serving Options:
Careful, it throws a little sediment. Have it with anything you want or by itself. I’m taking 6 bottle home!
2007 Trione Bordeaux Blend, Geyserville Ranch (September, 2012 - The Gary Parker Collection)
Growing Region: Alexander Valley, Ca.
Varietal Blend: 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 4% Petite Verdot, 4% Malbec
Fermentation: 18 Months French Oak
Suggested Retail: $48.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $31.49
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: For over three decades, the Trione family has raised premium grapes that have been the foundation of many award-winning wines. Now we bring our grapes to you in wines bottled under our own label, Trione Vineyards & Winery. Planting and cultivating our own vineyards in four premium Sonoma County appellations allows us the ability to craft wines that truly represent their source. Each of our five estate vineyards have their own unique qualities that are apparent in the resulting wine.It is the culmination of our family’s long commitment to Sonoma County.
“A big, potent wine, dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon with its black currant and dark chocolate flavors and tannins, while Merlot brings a softer texture and cherry fruit. Drinkable now, after decanting, for its luxurious richness, but should gain in the bottle over the next 6–8 years.” 93 Points, Wine Enthusiast
Appearance:
How can you not be taken by the size and weight of this bottle? What a statement! It is a bit difficult to read the fine print on the label, especially the breakdown of the varietal percentages, but all is forgiven, as the overall package is beautiful. The wine is totally black at the core, with some garnet crimson peeping through around the edges. Seriously long legs on this one.
Nose:
Four inches above the glass you start getting into the power and grace of this wine. Dark berry, raspberry, dark cherry, wood elements, underbrush and spices are captivating. I also noticed a touch of cocoanut, perhaps from some American oak treatment.
Texture:
Big and full as you would expect, of course, but definitely not overdone. Luscious and full, but well balanced. Kind of has a chunky, meaty feel to it and a touch of glorious cream.
Flavor:
The dark berries pop out very nicely, as do the other elements in the nose: Dark cherry, vanilla oak, cocoanut, spices and crushed herbs. To complement the dairy in the texture, I found myself likening the wine flavor profile to See’s Candy, a dark milk and nut chocolate.
Serving Options:
So after getting dairy and chocolate flavors, I hustled to the refrigerator and chipped of a nice chunk of dark chocolate and grabbed some Macadamia nuts as well. It was an incredible mix of flavors. Later, I ditched the nuts and just went straight chocolate. This is a keeper, 8-12 years. Great with savory foods as well!
Duck Confit Taco
This recipe comes from our Casual Side Wine and Beer Bar menu. It is extremely popular, and does very well with the 2011 Lagar de Cervera Albariño.
Will make 8 Little Tacos
Ingredients:
Duck Confit:
- Two leg and thigh of duck
- 2 cups kosher salt
- 1 cup sugar
- 1 teaspoon of whole black pepper
- ½ teaspoon red chili flakes
- 1 quart of rendered duck fat
- For the Salsa Rioja:
- 1 cup of dried Anaheim chili’s
- 2 cloves of garlic
- ½ small brown onion
- 1/12 cups of water
- ¼ teaspoon of black pepper
- ¼ teaspoon of onion powder
- ¼ teaspoon of paprika
For the Salad
- 6 red radishes
- 1 jalapeno
- 1 handful of cilantro
- Fresh squeezed limejuice (to taste)
- Salt & pepper (to taste)
- 16 corn tortillas, (miniature in size)
- 1 lime, quartered (for garnish and topping)
Method:
- Mix the salt, sugar, chili and whole black pepper in a large bowl.
- Cover the duck legs with the mixture and let cure for about two hours.
- Later, rinse the duck under cold water. Pat dry.
- Place ducks in a cooking pot.
- Add duck fat and set on stove over low heat for four hours.
- Remove from fat. Let cool enough to remove fat from the meat, and shred them gently. Set aside.
- In another pot, add the chili, onion, water and garlic. Simmer for about 30 minutes. Let mixture cool
- Pour the mixture into a blender.
- Add pepper, paprika, onion powder and salt to taste. Blend
- Shave or slice (very thin) the radishes and the jalapeno. Toss in bowl.
- Tear cilantro leaf, and add them with the salt, limejuice to your taste. Toss the mixture.
- Add the oil to a griddle or flat pan and warm the tortillas.
- Spread out tortillas on a large plate, using two little tortillas per taco.
- Add duck mixture to the tortillas.
- Add desired amount of salsa to them.
- Top each taco with the radish salad.
- Garnish with lime wedges.