Wine Club Newsletter - August 2012
Field Blends
No matter which of our three wine clubs you are a member of, you will have one wine this month that is a “Field Blend.” These wines are becoming most elusive as modern day methods and single vineyard single varietal wines have more cache’ in the eyes of the wine drinking public.
So what is a “Field Blend”?
A hundred years ago, when immigrant families settled in California, they planted their grapes differently than we do today. There were no wire-trained plots of merlot, stretching for miles. Instead, they planted a few acres of head-pruned grapes, all mixed up in the vineyard. Some of these varietals were Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Carignane, Zinfandel, and so forth. . . . not even row by row, but all sprinkled together.
Most people don’t grow or harvest grapes that way anymore. It can be a little tricky to get the harvest at the right time. The grapes did not all ripen on the same day. But when there was a general family vibe that it was time to pick, they picked. The more ripe grapes gave plumpness; the less ripe grapes gave zip. A tribute to building character the old-fashioned way, layer by layer.
Field blending requires that winemakers be far more in touch with what’s going on from start to finish during the winemaking process, but it is particularly important to know what is going on in the field.
So this means that the winemaker has to be out in the field each day, walking the rows, noticing what is working well in certain places and not so well in others. Perhaps you will see that Zinfandel doesn’t grow so well in this spot, but it grows great in that spot. That might lead to some changes to the vineyard in subsequent years.
It is really a process that lends itself well to the small winery. The small players in the business are in the perfect position to work, manage, and perfect field-blended wines — simply because they have the ability to work the field.
Large wineries do not have the manpower or the budgets to justify extensive time spent working the fields, making long-term decisions to improve a field blend. I like to consider field blending (when compared to the techniques of large wineries planting large segments of single varietals) a case of going from one-dimensional winemaking to multi-dimensional winemaking.
In other words, to me it is like cooking with more than one spice. You’re growing a variety of grapes together, you’re harvesting them simultaneously, you’re fermenting them together. Think about how exciting that is! Your different varieties will likely ripen at different speeds, so you are going to have some grapes at, say, 22 ºBrix while others are at 28. This leads to all sorts of flavor variations, and this will find its way into your final wine.
By fermenting together, you automatically create a complexity that you would never find in a single varietal. By themselves, the grapes in a field blend would be awkward, lonely. But together, the winemaker is playing with all sorts of great flavors, and a very complex wine.
Excerpted From Wikipedia, Homegrownfarms.com, winemakermag.com
2010 Veedercrest Chardonnay, Ruhl Vineyard (August, 2012 - The WineSellar Club)
Growing Region: Yountville-Napa Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Chardonnay
Fermentation: No Oak Aging
Suggested Retail: $25.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $21.59
Broad Strokes:
With all modesty, this is probably one of the highest quality Chardonnay’s we have ever had in the WineSellar Club. We are proud to bring it to you.
From the winery: Veedercrest was recognized at the 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting for making the most French style Chardonnay of all the Chardonnays entered for the tasting, and we still make it the same way. The estate grown Villa Mille Rose Chardonnay comes from a growing region east of Highway 29, and just north of the Oakville Crossroad, behind Opus One, and near to Nickel & Nickel, Saddleback, Silver Oak, Round Pound, Gargiulo, and Groth, in one of the Napa Valley’s legendary growing regions.
Appearance:
I remember this label on their wines from the 1970’s, at least the profile of the mountains. I always liked it. This one looks as if it is warning the consumer that there is no oak and no malolactic fermentation. I think that’s a good thing. The wine is beautiful, with pale yellow hue that is slightly tinged with green. Clean, vibrant, beautiful.
Nose:
Ripe and pure Chardonnay fruit pop from the glass with a delightful intensity. Mandarin orange scents, with some Meyer lemon and other citrus notes. Tropical fruit notes are present, mainly pineapple. Peaches, both fresh and canned (not syrup), kind of like a peaches and cream sensation. Also found a touch of red fruit, cherry, and pine nuts.
Texture:
This has an excellent mouth feel. It is creamy and rich, which often is a result of oak aging. Instead, the wine sat on the lees for an extended period and were stirred, adding the extra weight. Mouth coating and well balanced. The acid is firm and assertive, but still holds the smooth impression all the way through to the very long, thoughtful, even finish.
Flavor:
The wine starts a little lean, as you would expect based on the citric elements in the nose. But it opens up very well in mid palate to the tropical fruit of pineapple and coconut. The citric acid holds it tight, but yielding to the peach fruit, it becomes more complex as time goes on. Nutmeg, spice, yeasty-bread dough and the pine nut comes through as well. Tasty and delicious, pure Chardonnay!
Serving Options:
It’s ready now, but I also believe this would do nicely with a year or two in the bottle. It will be fabulous with grilled white fleshed fish, scampi, lobster, shellfish as a whole, or even as an aperitif.
2008 Quinta de Saes, Quinta de Pellada (August, 2012 - The WineSellar Club; Two Rouge Club)
Growing Region: Dao, Portugal
Varietal Blend: Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Alfrocheiro
Fermentation: Unknown
Suggested Retail: $18.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $14.39
Broad Strokes:
Wines from Portugal have come a long way from the bitter, tannic, rustic monsters of years past. The dry wine movement in Portugal has taken tremendous leaps forward in terms of modern equipment and winemaking techniques. The Dao is located south of the Douro Valley - where world famous Port and full bodied dry red wines are made - but in the Dao their wines tend to have a bit more elegance. Dao's quality vineyards are situated at altitudes between 500 and 1500ft (150–450m) above sea level. This elevation raises the vines out of the valley's shadows and towards all-important sunshine, allowing them to maximize their photosynthesis time during the day. It also increases diurnal temperature variation, helping the grapes cool down at night, which they must do to retain the acids so desirable in wine.
Appearance:
Nice looking package overall. This company, Quinta de Pellada, makes a wide range of small production, specialized bottling. Anyway, the hue is that of dark rose petal with a magenta rim. It looks a little cloudy, and you can see through it at the core at 2 inches of wine. The legs drip slowly, heavily down the rim of the glass.
Nose:
Chunky and mild at first, the wine opens up after 10 minutes of airing. In fact, it opens up to a lot of things: red cherry fruit, exotic spices, such as star anise, cinnamon, and even cocoa, tarragon, tar and licorice. The nose also exhibits a bit of dried meat, along with black walnuts and vanilla oak. Melon and prosciutto, more on that in flavor notes.
Texture:
The wine is medium in body, with mouth expanding fruit. At times it feels lean, then expansive. There is a strawberry styled acid that makes the wine slightly tart, but also marries the fruit and acid with excellent harmony. The finish is very dry.
Flavor:
This wine has one of the most unique flavor characteristics we have ever come across. It reminded us a the classic prosciutto wrapped melon appetizer typical to Italian cuisine. The freshness and sweetness of the melon, as well as the fruit of it, juxtaposed to the meatiness and salt of the prosciutto. You’ll experience this mostly on the finish, but also on the nose.
Serving Options:
What a great summer BBQ wine! Grilled chicken especially. At this price, you can load up for a party and please all your guests. It’s so unique in itself, and for the quality of the product, another proud entry into The WineSellar Club!
2009 Davis Family Pinot Noir, Horseshoe Bend (August, 2012 - Two Rouge Club)
Growing Region: Russian River Valley, Sonoma California
Varietal Blend: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: Barrel Fermented
Suggested Retail: $45.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $40.49
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: The HORSESHOE BEND VINEYARD is a ridge-top site at the crown of the sub-region known as Occidental Ridge; on the extreme western edge of the Russian River Valley appellation, above the coastal town of Occidental. The elevation of the vineyard is approximately 1200 feet, keeping it above the fog line on most days – This location struggles with much lower overall temperatures due to the coastal influence, cooler breezes that make the skins darker and thicker - yet always enjoys full sun exposure throughout the day because of its full sun exposure. The result is small concentrated clusters, dark rich color, black cherry fruit, earthy aromas and dark spice in every vintage. For Burgundy fans this may be a favorite. Only 275 cases were produced, making it for our Friends of the Family Wine Club only (except for lucky WineSellar Club members).
Appearance:
Solid looking package, with the newly hued and embossed label fitting into the large, heavy bottle, I am serious kind of notion. And it is! It has a deep ruby hue at the core, fading to clear at the edges. The wine has a great deal of glycerin, and hangs on to the bowl for quite some time.
Nose:
The fragrance was slightly muted at first, but held a lot of promise. It’s a Pinot Noir, after all, it can be fickle! Anyway, the nose gets crazy good after about 30 minutes. Make sure you wait for it. Earthy, with red fruits and caramel–coffee–cappuccino notes. Rose petal, smoke, black pepper, spices, and a bit of coconut and other descriptors just keep popping up.
Texture:
The wine is medium to medium full in body. That being said, let’s go back to it being a Pinot Noir . . . fabulous texture, of course, but this has an added dimension. Sporting a youthful mineral component (at 2009 vintage?) there is a definite creaminess in the texture that makes the wine glide through your palate with dairy on the mind. Long finish is complete and makes you want more.
Flavor:
Totally changing as I continue to sip on this glorious beverage, the wine that is. Perhaps me too! Rich, ripe plum and cherry fruit are gorgeous. The smoke, black pepper and spices also chime in. Overall, it reminds me of a delectable, creamy, root beer float with a cherry on top. Sweet, tasty and long finish.
Serving Options:
Personally, I want two cases of this wine to have and to hold. I think about 5-8 years will make this into a superior piece of treasure to have in your wine collection. The winery recommends pairing it with mushrooms in any form: risotto, ravioli, etc. I totally agree.
2009 Wine Guerrilla Old Vine Zinfandel, Clopton Vineyard (August, 2012 - The Gary Parker Collection)
Growing Region: Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
Varietal Blend: 79% Zinfandel, 21% Alicante Bouschet
Fermentation: Barrel Fermented
Suggested Retail: $35.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $26.99
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: The name, “Wine Guerrilla,” reflects a unique approach to winemaking and marketing. Having begun as a broker of fine small-production artisinal wines, Wine Guerrilla brings together a vision of a reasonably priced premium wine with a passion for California’s native grape, zinfandel, a knowledge of the Sonoma region and existing relationships with many of the county’s best-known growers. The result is something special. Wine Guerrilla operates on a singular mission: Finding the very best zinfandel grapes, and crafting wines worthy of the grape’s unique characteristics, and introducing those wines to the public. And eliminating the final barrier to instant wine-drinking gratification, Wine Guerrilla wines are bottled with easy-to-open screw tops.
Appearance:
Quite a striking, unique label. If you stare at it, you will see different images as you go. I saw two or three male silhouettes shadowing the obvious female image. Very Fun! The wine has a garnet hue, which is dark at the core, and of course lightens around the rim. The wine has a lot of glycerin, and drips very slowly down the bowl. Watch for a lot of sediment at the end of the bottle.
Nose:
Quite assertive, with lush black fruit components such as blackberry, black cherry, black walnut (I cheated on the fruit thing), boysenberry and blueberry. But it is focused, not crazy. Wood notes, toasted almonds, cinnamon, winter spices, with vanilla and chocolate charging forward as well.
Texture:
If you like it big, this wine is the one for you. If you like old vine Zinfandel, this wine is the one for you. It is a full-throttled, rich and full-bodied gem that delivers powerful fruit with a creamy mouth feeling. Tannins are noticeable, but in line with the fruit and acid, balancing out well.
Flavor:
A multitude of dark fruits: blackberry, boysenberry, black cherry, blueberry and plum to name them. Also delicious is the spice and wood components (roasted/toasted nuts), with a touch of wet leather. Got a nice bit of root beer and cola, and even molasses. The vanilla oak is very nice as is the touch of bitter chocolate you’ll discover on the finish.
Serving Options:
Only 120 cases of this wine were produced, so chances of finding it again, anywhere are rare. That means you should stock up best you can, because you’ll feel sorry after you finish your last one somewhere down the road. Should last another 7-9 years, developing as time goes on.
2009 Laird Cabernet Sauvignon, Flat Rock Ranch (August, 2012 - The Gary Parker Collection)
Growing Region: Yountville, Napa Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation: 21 Months French Oak, 50% New
Suggested Retail: $80.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $67.49
Broad Strokes:
This wine was awarded 95 points by the Wine Enthusiast, and I personally rate it quite high as well. Certainly another excellent bottling built for the long haul and for our cellars.
For generations, the Laird family have been farmers. They bought their first Napa Valley parcel back in 1970, over by Tubbs Lane north of Calistoga (Chateau Montelena territory) and the rest is history.
From the Winery: Our Flat Rock vineyard sits on the valley floor, just north of the Yountville Cross Road. Warm days and cooling evening breezes, along with rocky, well-drained soils provide optimum conditions for a ripe, rich Cabernet.
Appearance:
Solid looking package, with the embossed label fitting onto the large, heavy bottle. Not so sure I like the blue here, but everything else is first class. The wine is dark ruby at the core, which is actually opaque, slipping to a brilliant crimson at the edges. The wine clings to the glass for quite some time.
Nose:
The varietal correct Cabernet Sauvignon fruit is perfect. Sturdy, well structured fruit with a distant nuance of crushed herbs and a little bell pepper. The fruit is of blackberry and currant, laced with sweet vanilla oak. The wood components are delightful, vanilla oak and toasted nuts. Charcoal, smoke and cocoa are countered by a touch of spearmint.
Texture:
The wine is medium full in body. Just as the nose reveals, the wine is sturdy and well structured. The entry is very fine, bringing an elegant texture to a impactful presence. The fruit and the oak are nicely woven together, as are the tannins. There is a slight bit of tartness in the acidity this fruit bourn, and quite pleasant at that.
Flavor:
Classic, very well made Yountville-Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon flavors that speak of dark berry fruit, crushed herbs, with a hint of bell pepper. The wine opens nicely, bringing nuances of strawberry, licorice, caramel, coffee, smoke, tobacco (usually you have tobacco then smoke, right?) and toasted nuts. Chocolate and spearmint come in also, and maybe a bit of cranberry, the thing that gave us that little tartness in the palate. Great, even, classy finish.
Serving Options:
This wine is definitely built for long term cellaring. I would venture to say twenty years or more in the cellar would have this wine continuing to take on more of the complexities and nuances great wines gain with time.
Warm Potato & Truffle Salad
With Fried Organic Hen Egg, Leeks and Frisee
Here’s a popular appetizer on our menu for lunch, dinner, and the happy hour at our new wine and craft beer bar, “The Casual Side.”
Serves 4
Ingredients:
- 12 (small as you can find) red bliss potatoes
- 2 stalks of leeks
- 1 pint heavy cream
- 1 teaspoon of truffle oil
- 4 teaspoon of unsalted butter
- Salt & black pepper to taste
- 1 bunch chives, chopped
- 4 large eggs
- 2 frisee lettuce heads, extra- yellow
- 2 tablespoons butter for eggs
Method:
- Wash potatoes, put in pot and boil them about 8-10 minutes, depending on size. Poke one with a knife and the potato should slide off easily.
- Strain and set aside.
- Once cooled cut into quarters
- Clean and wash the frisee, pat dry, keeping only the yellow part.
- Wash leeks. Slice vertically at about 1/16”.
For the sauce:
- In a saucepot, combine the cream, truffle oil, butter and leeks. Cook over medium heat for about 5 minutes.
- Add salt and pepper to taste.
- Fold in potato and keep warm.
- In a sauté pan, heat butter to coat the pan.
- Add the eggs to the pan, cooking them over easy.
- Divide potato and cream mixture into 4 bowls.
- Top each bowl with a fried egg.
- Garnish with frisee and chives and serve.