Wine Club Newsletter - July 2012
Carménère An Exciting Red Wine Grape Varietal
In the Gary Parker Collection this month, we are featuring the 2008 Apaltagua Grail Carménère from Chile. The wine is spectacular, and has received 90+ point ratings from various publications. I thought this would be a good time to give a brief rundown on what the Carménère grape varietal is all about.
The Carménère grape is a winegrape variety originally planted in the Médoc region of Bordeaux, France, where it was used to produce deep red wines and occasionally used for blending purposes in the same manner as Petit Verdot.
A member of the Cabernet family of grapes, the name "Carménère" originates from the French word for crimson (carmin), which refers to the brilliant crimson color of the autumn foliage prior to leaf-fall.
Along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot, Carménère is considered part of the original six red grapes of Bordeaux, France.
Now rarely found in France, the world's largest area planted with this variety is in Chile in South America, with more than 8,800 hectares (2009) cultivated in the Central Valley. As such, Chile produces the vast majority of Carménère wines available today and as the Chilean wine industry grows, more experimentation is being carried out on Carménère's potential as a blending grape, especially with Cabernet Sauvignon.
Carménère is also grown in Italy's Eastern Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia regions and in smaller quantities in the California and Walla Walla regions of the United States.
Carménère favors a long growing season in moderate to warm climates. During harvest time and the winter period the vine fares poorly if it is introduced to high levels of rain or irrigation water. This is particularly true in poor-soil plantings where the vine would need more water. Over-watering during this period accentuates the herbaceous and green pepper characteristics of the grape.
The grape naturally develops high levels of sugar before the tannins achieve ripeness. If grown in too hot a climate the resulting wine will have a high alcohol level and low balance. Carménère buds and flowers three to seven days later than Merlot and the yield is lower than that of the latter grape.
Carménère wine has a deep red color and aromas found in red fruits, spices and berries. The tannins are gentler and softer than those in Cabernet Sauvignon and it is a medium body wine. Although mostly used as a blending grape, wineries do bottle a pure varietal Carménère which, when produced from grapes at optimal ripeness, imparts a cherry-like, fruity flavor with smoky, spicy and earthy notes and a deep crimson color. Its taste might also be reminiscent of dark chocolate, tobacco, and leather. The wine is best to drink while it's young.
Excerpted From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
2011 Lava, Beneventano Falanghina (July, 2012 - The WineSellar Club)
Growing Region: Campania, Italy
Varietal Blend: 100% Falanghina
Fermentation: Stainless Steel
Suggested Retail: $20.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $16.19
Broad Strokes:
Campania is in southern Italy, and its best vineyards are at high altitudes. From the area known to the Romans as Enotria (land of wine), comes one of southern Italy’s finest white wines. I discovered Falanghina about ten years back. My first noteworthy wine made from the Falanghina varietal was produced by Feudi San Gregorio, where I had a fabulous lunch while visiting the area. This excellent white wine is versatile, and a classic from the area. I am sure you will love it.
Appearance:
Great looking bottle that’s heavy (maybe heavier than need be considering environmental footprint). Nice, easy to read label, part of which depicts Mount Vesuvius, not too far from the origins of this wine. The wine has a clear, transparent, steely look with a slight green tinge edging the light yellow hues. Very pretty, and it has good viscosity, clinging very well to the inside of the glass.
Nose:
Excellent aromatics, almost perfume like, which keep evolving as the wine warms and opens up. Fruits of pear and apple, with tangerine, honey, a strong mineral component, white chalk, gravel and hot stones. On the nutty side, I experienced toasted pine nuts, sunflower seeds, black walnut, and even some sugar pine.
Texture:
The wine is medium to medium full in weight. It has a pretty full feeling in the mouth, even though it opens with some aggressive acidity. It is fruity, lush, rich in texture, oily with a nice line of acid to balance the very long, crisp, delightful finish.
Flavor:
Apple and pear fruits are joined by subtle, citrus (tangerine) notes, of which I found quite pleasing. The nut-like aromatics come through to the palate as toasted almonds, walnut and pine nuts, with a hint of smoke. Mineral, white chalk, and eventually, a note of caramel lingers. Beautiful!
Serving Options:
As mentioned, this is very versatile but will pair extremely well with foods. Especially fish, shellfish, seafood soups, salads composed with fish and or cheese. The wine will last in the bottle for a few years, but the beauty of this is its youthful verve and lively personality.
2009 Lamadrid, Cabernet Franc Reserva, Single Vineyard (July, 2012 - The WineSellar Club)
Growing Region: Agrelo, Argentina
Varietal Blend: 100% Cabernet Franc
Fermentation: 14 Months, 50-50% new-used French Oak
Suggested Retail: $22.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $17.99
Broad Strokes:
Lamadrid is the name of the family of the owner and founder, Guillermo García Lamadrid. Only 1,000 cases of this wine are made for a world market. I think they will have to increase the amount of production, or soon they will be charging higher tariff for this excellent bottle of wine. It is also quite rare to see a 100&% Cabernet Franc from a single vineyard coming out of Argentina.
91 Points in The Wine Advocate!
Appearance:
This is my idea of an excellent package. A cool logo, a warming hue on a “metallic” looking label, perfect size and weight bottle. Take note of the foil cap, which not only looks great, it conveys a message, that if you don’t get dizzy trying to read it, is quite inspiring. The wine is dark red, black at the core, and quite good looking.
Nose:
It’s a total winner on this wine. Very complex and rich nose displays full fruit aromas, dark and black berry fruits to be exact. Notes of fresh vanilla oak surround the fruit, with plum, cardamom, smoke, mulberry, spices, clove, and intense black and white pepper. I found myself going back again and again to sniff this thing through. Lovely!
Texture:
The wine is medium full in weight. The rich ripe fruit coats the mouth upon entry, and then you can feel the gliding power though the palate. The finish is drying, which begs for fat laden foods or BBQ meats.
Flavor:
Once again, we can look to the nose for the flavor components: dark and black berry fruits, spices, herbs, vanilla, smoke, clove, white and black pepper. I also got some tobacco, prune, and a cola / root beer impression I really loved.
Serving Options:
The drying finish demands this wine to be served with foods, not alone for cocktails or a sipper. So I look directly to meats with a good deal of fat/marbling, as well as marinades and BBQ meats. The wine will improve for a few years in proper storage, so you may want to put 6-12 bottles away.
2005 Vina Cerrada, Gran Reserva (July, 2012 - The Two Rouge Club)
Growing Region: Rioja, Spain
Varietal Blend: 75% Tempranillo, 20% Granacha, 5% Mazuelo
Fermentation: 24 Months American Oak
Suggested Retail: $34.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $26.99
Broad Strokes:
After visiting Spain’s Wine Country last year, my appreciation for the wines coming from this country have greatly increased. The wines from Rioja typically use Tempranillo as the major grape varietal in their blends, which has different styles and ranges of flavors. Old world style Riojas were rustic, new world wines (such as this one) are sleek and elegant.
Appearance:
A very pretty package overall, looking contemporary and polished. However, it is hard to read the label and discern the origins and other important details regarding the wine. The wine is dark ruby red in color at the center, giving away to a bright magenta on the rim. The wine coats and drips slowly down the inside of the bowl.
Nose:
The fragrance of the wine jumps up about 4-5 inches above the glass, which I love. Excellent aromas of plum fruit, raspberry, dark fruits with herbs and spices. The wood-notes show off vanilla oak, roasted nuts, toffee, freshly shaven oak.
Texture:
Can we say smooth and velvety? Of course we can! Medium bodied in weight, clean entry, well balanced, good acid. The tannins are well melded. The wine has this juicy sensation that makes your mouth water.
Flavor:
While the nose was showing fruit and spices, the palate offers another dimension, that of sophisticated earth elements: such as Morel mushrooms, truffles, damp earth, wood and game or rare beef. The fruits on the palate are cherry, strawberry, blackberry and plum, woven together with the vanilla and chocolate elements.
Serving Options:
This drinks surprisingly youthful for a wine that is seven years old. This will keep for another 4-8 years, but really, it is drinking wonderfully right now. It’s a great food wine. I would have it with filet mignon, line caught Ahi tuna, or simply with cheese.
2010 Brennan Avery Cabernet Sauvignon, Vineyard Select (July, 2012 - The Two Rouge Club)
Growing Region: Napa Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation: French Oak
Suggested Retail: $29.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $17.99
Broad Strokes:
Here is a GREAT value in Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon! Looking at tasting notes in various publications, people constantly claim this tastes like a $45 Cabernet for about $30. We agree. And you club members can get it for $17.99!!! WOW! You will find it on some of the best restaurant wine lists in San Diego as well. Made by the Laird Family Winery for our good friend Rob Rubin, who honors his son, Brennan Avery, with the wine.
Appearance:
Simple black label with grey/white looking script is straightforward, though the font looks a little fuzzy to these advanced eyes. See the back label for Rob’s touching comments. The wine is nearly black with a magenta-purple rim. It is opaque at the core.
Nose:
The wine smells fresh and luscious, with blackberry fruit laced by sweet vanilla oak. Spicy with black pepper, star anise, coffee bean and a whiff of lavender, we really enjoyed the toasted walnut and mahogany essence the wood barrels offer to the wine.
Texture:
Medium full bodied wine is full and luscious upon entry. It has a creamy texture, giving you that impression of an adult chocolate and vanilla Sundae, with all the trimmings: toasted nuts, Maraschino cherry and coffee-caramel toppings.
Flavor:
Deep, deep, deep berry and plum flavors dance on the tongue. Chocolate, vanilla, coffee/cappuccino/latte add to the complexity. A hint of root beer is delightful. I also got graham cracker, grilled bread, toasted almond, flower of rosemary, then maple syrup and bacon. Go figure that one . . .
Serving Options:
This is really a fun Cabernet Sauvignon. I would like to use this with a peppery steak, a medium hard nutty cheese, or even a dessert using a dark berry compote of some kind. It will cellar for 2-6 years.
2009 Gevrey-Chambertin, “Vieille Vignes”, Gerard Seguin (July, 2012 - The Gary Parker Collection)
Growing Region: Burgundy, France
Varietal Blend: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: French Oak
Suggested Retail: $50.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $34.19
Broad Strokes:
Every once in awhile, we get to enjoy Burgundy in our Gary Parker Collection. Not often, as they are pricey and fickle, but when we do . . . Gerard Seguin has been making wines in Gevrey-Chambertin for many generations, using traditional methods as well as using contemporary technology. The very stony soil holds vines that are 60-90 years old, making the wines a bit more focused and complex.
Appearance:
Classic looking package from Burgundy: special cut label, embossing, different types of font, family seal and trademark on the label and foil capping. The wine is light in color, with a garnet hue which is only slightly deeper at the core then from the edges.
Nose:
The nose comes off stronger than the appearance, typical of Burgundy Reds. It has a pronounced deep cherry aroma, with bits of hay, black tea, spices of India (curry), vanilla and dark wood. Per my experience, the “hay” in the nose converts into deep complexities as the wine opens up. It becomes less grass like and more earth driven.
Texture:
Light on body, but rich on the palate. Classic! Creamy texture has excellent mouth feel, and the wine makes you salivate as you’re drinking it. Long, clean, even finish stays in your mouth for a considerable time.
Flavor:
Berry compote and vanilla ice cream. The flavors are definitive yet delicate. Being delicate doesn’t mean they are not delicious, though. Black tea notes, coffee, tobacco, cigar leaf and red licorice are part of the lovely experience.
Serving Options:
This is a wine that makes you want to be very careful about choose how to drink it. It would get killed next to another big, bold flavored wine, or spicy foods. I would like to have this with some pate, roasted bird with a garlicky sauce, with sauces made from lightly seasoned home made stocks, and slow roasted meats.
2008 Carmenere, Apaltagua Grial (July, 2012 - The Gary Parker Collection)
Growing Region: Colchagua Valley, Chile
Varietal Blend: 100% Carmenere
Fermentation: French Oak
Suggested Retail: $70.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $58.49
Broad Strokes:
As you can read in the Wonderful World of Wine this month, Carmenere is a wine varietal that is doing extremely well in Chile, especially in parts of the Colchagua Valley. There are Carmenere wines that are commanding $100 a bottle at the winery, and this could be one of them. However, we are fortunate to have a price such as this given the superior quality of this wine. It is most assuredly, worthy of being in the Gary Parker Collection.
Appearance:
While I can read “GRIAL” very well, the rest is too small for me to ascertain at the dinner table. And it’s nearly impossible to read “Apaltagua” with the script it’s in. But I can read the wine! It’s gorgeous, vibrant, dark ruby red hues turn black at the center. Very good looking, without a trace of browning around the edges after 5 years of age.
Nose:
The powerful fruit and oak driven nose is a fantastic experience. Boysenberry, blackberries, ripe plum and other red fruits are well pronounced. Sweet vanilla oak, tree bark, leather, and nutmeg are also in the forefront. Spicy and enveloping nose, it goes a long ways to the enjoyment of this wine. Then you get to the texture . . .
Texture:
Rich and yummy, it’s lush and full, smooth and velvety, dense and rich, and a total winner. The balance of fruit, tannins and acid is most excellent, with a long, well integrated finish that lingers on and on.
Flavor:
The boysenberry and blackberry fruit is wonderfully assertive, gushing the flavors throughout your mouth. Followed up by the solid strand of vanilla, spices and a touch of herb. Fruit takes on a Bing cherry note. All in all, the balance, power, flavor and texture of this wine is undoubtedly a superior example of Carmenere wine.
Serving Options:
While this wine drinks very well right now, I think added complexities will develop for at least another five to ten years.
Prosciutto, Mozzarella and Melon Salad with Melon Vinaigrette
Serves Six
A great recipe for this summer outdoor entertaining!
Recommended Wine:
2011 Lava, Beneventano Falanghina
Salad Ingredients
- 1 medium honeydew melon, peeled, seeded, and cut into 12 slices
- 1 medium cantaloupe, peeled, seeded, and cut into 12 slices
- 18 very thin slices prosciutto (3 per person)
- 6 wedges of Buffalo Mozzarella
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Ingredients for the Melon Vinaigrette:
- ½ pound peeled, cubed orange-fleshed melon, such as cantaloupe or Crenshaw
- Zest and juice of 1 lime
- 4 sprigs mint
- ¼ c. grapeseed oil
- Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
Method:
- In a blender or food processor, combine the melon cubes, lime zest and juice, and mint leaves.
- Puree until smooth.
- With the motor running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream to emulsify the sauce.
- Adjust flavor with salt and pepper to taste.
- In a large bowl, add the sliced melons and toss with the vinaigrette.
- On four plates, artistically arrange the honeydew melon, cantaloupe, prosciutto and Mozzarella.
- Dust lightly with black and white pepper before serving.
- Because of the fresh fruit, this vinaigrette is best served the day it is made.
(GP)