Wine Club Newsletter - February 2012
Wine: The Daily Necessity of Life
Ancient Rome played a pivotal role in the history of wine. The earliest influences of viticulture on the Italian peninsula can be traced to Ancient Greeks and Etruscans. The rise of the Roman Empire saw an increase in technology and awareness of winemaking, which spread to all parts of the empire.
The influence of the Romans has had a profound effect of the histories of today's major winemaking regions of France, Germany, Italy, Portugal and Spain. In the hands of the Romans, wine became "democratic" and available to all, from the lowly slave to the simple peasant to the aristocrat.
The Romans' belief that wine was a daily necessity of life promoted its widespread availability among all classes. This led to the desire to spread viticulture and wine production to every part of the Roman empire, to ensure steady supplies for Roman soldiers and colonists.
Economics also came into play, as Roman merchants saw opportunities for trade with native tribes such as those from Gaul and Germania, bringing Roman influences to these regions before the arrival of the Roman military. Many of the techniques and principles first developed in Roman times can be found in modern winemaking.
As Rome grew from a collection of settlements to a kingdom and then republic, the culture of Roman winemaking was influenced by the skills and techniques of the regions that were conquered and became part of the Roman Empire. The Greek settlements of southern Italy were completely under Roman control by 270 BC.
Golden age
For most of Rome's winemaking history, Greek wine was the most highly prized with domestic Roman wine fetching far lower prices. The 2nd century BC began the "golden age" of Roman winemaking and the development of Grand cru vineyards (a type of early First Growths in Rome). The vintage of 121BC was of legendary fame and became known as the Opimian vintage, named after the consul at the time—Lucius Opimius. The vintage was noted for its large harvest and the unusually high quality of wine that was produced—with some examples still being drunk over 100 years later.
Pliny the Elder wrote extensively about the "first growths" of Rome—most notably Falernian, Alban and Caecuban. Other first growth vineyards include Rhaeticum and Hadrianum located along the Po river in what are now the modern day regions of Lombardy and Venice respectively.
At this highpoint, it was estimated that Rome was consuming over 47 million US gallons (180,000,000 L) of wine each year, enough for every man, woman and child to have about a bottle of wine each day.
Pompeii
One of the most important wine centers of the Roman world was the city of Pompeii located south of Naples. The area was home to a vast expanse of vineyards, and served as an important trading city with Roman provinces abroad. It was the principal source of wine for the city of Rome.
The Pompeians themselves were notorious for the decadence of their wine thirst. The worship of Bacchus, the god of wine, was prevalent with depictions of the god being found on frescoes and archaeological fragments throughout the region.
Amphorae stamped with the emblems of Pompeian merchants have been found across the Roman empire including the modern day regions of Bordeaux, Narbonne, Toulouse and Spain. There is evidence to suggest that the popularity and notoriety of Pompeian wine may have given rise to early wine fraud with fraudulent stamps being used to mark amphorae of non-Pompeian wine.
The 79 AD eruption of Mount Vesuvius had a devastating effect on the Roman wine industry. Vineyards across the region were destroyed, as well as warehouses storing the recent 78 AD vintage, causing a dramatic shortage of wine. The damage to the trading port also hindered the flow of wines from outside provinces. The wine that was available rose sharply in price, making it unaffordable to all but the most affluent Romans. The wine famine caused a sense of panic among the Romans who rushed to plant vineyards in the areas near Rome, even uprooting grain fields to have more available areas to plant.
While these efforts helped to quickly correct the shortage of wine, the opposite effect of a wine surplus also brought negative consequences. The glut of wine caused a depression in pricing which hurt the commercial entrance of wine producers and traders.
The grain fields that were uprooted contributed to a food shortage for the growing Roman population. In 92 AD, Roman EmperorDomitian issued an edict that banned the plantings of any new vineyards in Rome and ordered the uprooting of half of the vineyards in Roman provinces. While there is evidence to suggest that Domitian's edict was largely ignored in the Roman provinces, wine historians have debated the effect of the edict on the infant wine industries of Spain and Gaul.
The expectation of the edict was that the reduced vineyards would supply only enough wine for domestic consumption with sparse amount for trade. While vineyards were already established in these growing wine regions, the lacking impetus of trading consideration may have had a depressing effect on the spread of viticulture and winemaking in these areas. Domitian's edict stayed in effect for 188 years till Emperor Probus repealed the measure in 280 AD.
2010 Silvaner Halbtrocken, Weingut Gysler (1,000 ml) (February, 2012 - The WineSellar Club)
Growing Region: Rheinhessen, Germany
Varietal Blend: 100% Silvaner
Fermentation: Stainless Steel
Suggested Retail: $22.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $17.99
Broad Strokes:
Yes, that’s right, 1,000 ml. The typical bottle size is 750 ml, so you’re getting roughly two more glasses of wine from this bottle. Silvaner is planted in Germany, Austria, and in Alsace, France. Halbtrocken translates to “Half Dry”. In simple, general terms, this means the wine cannot exceed 1.8% in residual sugar. It is actually a bit more complicated than that, but we’re sticking with this for now.
Appearance:
The bottle looks big because it is! Holding another ten ounces or so of liquid will do that to you. It is nice looking overall, with a clearly and simply stated label with the family crest. And of course, my favorite screw cap adorns the package. The wine is straw golden yellow in color. It is brilliant, clean and sparkling. It also brings a touch of youthful effervescence, as you can see tiny bubbles.
Nose:
The nose is totally delightful, with fresh peach, floral essence (honeysuckle & jasmine), mineral, chalk and lime. The fruit nuances are those of very ripe grapes, with a bit of honey, sesame and a very small hint of caramel/brown sugar.
Texture:
This has a fabulous texture, with the most beautiful balance one could imagine. It feels very clean, youthful, viscous, and the sensation of the youthful spritz is small but interesting factor. It is racy, and you will enjoy a clean, lengthy finish.
Flavor:
Peachy, mango and pineapple fruit are forward, along with Mandarin Orange. I found some enjoyable mint and fresh dill notes that are refreshing and striking. One taster noted granny smith apple flavor and acids. The caramel from the nose comes through to the palate, with buttered popcorn, mineral and vanilla.
Serving Options:
This Silvaner is a great aperitif, served cool but not cold. It is designed for consuming over the next year or so, and would be a great party wine. It’s a crowd pleaser, for sure. For foods, crisp salads with citrus and cheese would be ideal, or add sautéed fish to it as well.
2010 Chateau Paul Mas, Clos des Mures, Coteaux du Languedoc (February, 2012 - The WineSellar Club)
Growing Region: Languedoc, France
Varietal Blend: 95% Syrah & 5% Grenache
Fermentation: French Oak Barrels
Suggested Retail: $20.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $17.99
Broad Strokes:
The Languedoc Region of France is its own appellation, the largest in France. Many fabulous wines are produced there. "Coteaux" means that a hill is covered by vines.Coteaux du Languedoc has a very long history. The Greeks probably planted (probably) the first vines in France, about 500 years B.C. Clos des Mûres vineyard is part of Château Paul Mas, surrounded by wild mulberry (mûres) plants.
Appearance:
Big ol’ heavy bottle with a deep punt. In the wine world of today, one would suspect such a bottle would bring powerful wine and aggressive fruit. Well, yeah, that’s what we get! The label is hard to decipher beyond Chateau Pal Mas. The vineyard designate, “Clos des Mures” is barely decipherable with its small size and script. Lost opportunity. The wine is gorgeous. Black at the core, dark garnet near the rim, which finally hits clear. Dripping with viscosity.
Nose:
The nose is powerful, gilded with black fruits, spice and earth scents. Folks, I opened this wine three days ago, and it is still coming at me with all kinds of love. But it’s a hard love. It is unyielding and restrained in the beginning, not showing a lot of generosity.
Texture:
Medium full to full in body. Robust tannins. Powerful and dense fruit. The tannic, stiff beginning forefronts the lurking, massive Tsunami of wine fruit that will jump you. Drying finish is begging for fatty foods and more time in the bottle.
Flavor:
The wine is kind of sexy, if you like it rough (we’re all 21 or older, right?). Sometimes that’s the key, what you’re up for. Very powerful tannins give glimpses of a curvaceous and desirable fruit bomb, luring you with promises of deep black fruits, vanilla, black pepper, wild herbs and grilled bread.
Serving Options:
A few different options for this hulk: It’s one of those wines you could have a glass of, put in the frig, and drink it over the next few days. Or you could assault it back with some blue cheese topped grilled steak with chopped shallots and pungent garlic bread. Or you could drop in the cellar for 3-5 years and see if solitary confinement doesn’t tame it a bit. It is a fun wine, to be sure.
2006 Oliverhill Winery, “Jimmy Section” Shiraz (February, 2012 - The Two Rouge Club)
Growing Region: McLaren Vale, South Australia
Varietal Blend: 100% Shiraz (Syrah)
Fermentation: French Oak Barrels
Suggested Retail: $35.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $26.99
Broad Strokes:
It is evident that Shiraz and other wines from Australia have fallen out of favor to consumers in the United States over the last few years. This is most likely due to the glut of inferior product that was shipped here in mass quantities after discovering our market. The Oliverhill Winery is definitely an exception to that notion. With critical ratings of 93, 92, and 91 points from the Wine Advocate, Stephen Tanzer and The Wine Spectator (respectively), it is a shoe in this wine is a winner. We are proud of it being in The WineSellar Club!
Appearance:
Nice, simple round label is easy to read and quite direct. However there is no vintage or varietal on the front side. Of course, I like the screw cap! The back label is informative, which gives you a better connection to the producer/importer. The wine is opaque/black at the core, shifting to a brilliant ruby/magenta to the rim. We were commenting on the legs looking so beautiful, that Oliverhill might want to consider insuring them (a la Betty Grable).
Nose:
A very pretty nose, spicy, bright, clean, yet pungent, and it even made my mouth water with anticipation. Fresh aromas of black fruits, blackberry, blueberry, and plum, integrate with stewed cherries, vanilla oak, and bittersweet chocolate. It stays persistent, coming back for more intrigue with smoke and wood and a dash of fresh herb. Really quite nice!
Texture:
Medium full to full in body. It’s big in the mouth with sizeable tannins, and powerful ripe fruit. There is really a significant presence in the mouth, one might call it a blaster. But, after one hour of air-time, it became silken and velvety, actually quite elegant. What a turn around.
Flavor:
You can go right to the nose for the flavor adjectives. Pretty, spicy, and mouthwatering, bold with black fruits, stewed cherries, smoke, vanilla and fresh shaved mahogany. Also notice the dash of fresh herbs and perhaps a little tar or asphalt in the mix.
Serving Options:
The critics are calling for this one to age 10 years or more, and I do agree. I would like to try it in 2015, and go from there as far as determining when it is at its peak for my palate. I still had some of this left over from dinner, and finished it off quite nicely with some fine chocolate. Korean BBQ would be killer with this wine as well.
2007 Vacqueyras, Domaine La Fourmone, Tresor du Poete (February, 2012 - The Gary Parker Collection; Two Rouge Club)
Growing Region: Rhone Valley, France
Varietal Blend: Grenache & Syrah
Fermentation: French Oak Barrels
Suggested Retail: $38.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $29.69
Broad Strokes:
It’s been ten years since we have had a Vacqueyras (vock-ker-rah) in one of our wine clubs. 2007 was a FANTASTIC vintage for the Rhone Valley. I love these wines, as they generally are small production affairs, without global marketing or pricing bringing down (or up) the prices and availability. But beyond that, the flavor profile suits me, as generally the wines are a bit awkward when first opened, and then turn into wonderful experiences as they develop. This wine was awarded a 90-92 rating by Robert Parker of the Wine Advocate. Not too shabby!
Appearance:
A fantastic looking package! It speaks to Vacqueyras. Perhaps the grower, a descendant from several generations at Domaine La Fourmone, Marie Therese Combe, did the art work for the label herself. She is quite and accomplished artist. I really, really like the embossed bottle. It’s so strong and proud. The wine is very dark red with gray black at the core. There is still a hint of youthful red on the rim of the glass.
Nose:
Oh . . . YAY! Such very deep and dark brooding red and black fruits. Hints of black olive, cigar (tobacco), smoke, raw meats of game, hay, wild herbs and roasted walnuts. I mean it is stunning! This is why I love wine. I got a hint of flint, or lead pencil as well. Just keep putting my nose back in it as it evolves.
Texture:
Medium full in body. Very dense, but certainly not overblown. It is rock solid, kind of chunky if you will, with a hard line of edgy tannic acids enclosing the muscle beast. Slightly drying tannins invite red meats and ripe cheeses.
Flavor:
Just waiting for us is dark red and black fruits, a crush of fresh herbs, with a hint of black olive, smoke and earth. Nice floral touches as well. I’m also getting hot stones or gravel, mineral, and that back to the soil feeling.
Serving Options:
Here we are enjoying a 90-92 point wine from a great vintage for an easily identifiable all-time bargain. The wine will last ten years, but I want to drink one every month for the next five years. So that’s only 5 cases I need to get. How about you?
2007 Keller Estate, Pinot Noir, ”El Coro” (February, 2012 - The Gary Parker Collection)
Growing Region: Sonoma Coast, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: French Oak
Suggested Retail: $50.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $43.19
Broad Strokes:
Seeing how our French Pinot Noir was so well received last month, I thought it would be cool to try an American counterpart. Arturo Keller’s interest in wine began with him making wine originally for just his friends and family. His continued passion for wine led him to purchase 650 acres in the southeast corner of Sonoma County on the eastern edge of the Petaluma Gap overlooking the Petaluma River. Just 309 cases of this beauty were produced.
Appearance:
Excellent looking label, clearly stating the producer, varietal and the family crest. The good-looking bottle is not oversized for marketing purposes, yet the wine is of a very high standard. Perhaps it is a bit understated overall. The wine is very pretty, and reflects light very well. It is also quite clear, even though it is neither fined nor filtered. Brilliant cherry red hue is delicate to the eye, and becomes almost clear as it gets to the rim. Long, long legs!
Nose:
A couple inches above the glass, the aromatics enticed me to go deeper and concentrate, focus on the complexity: for this is not to be casually set aside. Before we go further, I implore you to take 40 minutes or so to let this wine bring its full complement of aromas to you. Cherry fruit, floral nuances, smoke, white pepper, tobacco and wood are delightful! It’s spicy and racy, with many layers of beguiling scent waiting to be discovered.
Texture:
Quite similar to the Gevrey-Chambertin last month, the Keller is smooth, elegant, rich with fruit, and has a wonderful creamy feel. It is a touch lighter in body overall, but the lasting elegance and the mouth coating, long finish does not take a back seat to the Frenchy.
Flavor:
Very subtle, yet increasingly it gains presence. Can you taste dark red rose petals? I think I can. Some nice raspberry and cherry fruit also, with the wood notes of smoke and vanilla are there also. Look for a dash of herbs, spices, white pepper and milk chocolate. Oh man, I love this!
Serving Options:
The Gevrey-Chambertin was 2009, and this Keller is the 2007 vintage. It is also a touch lighter in body than the Gevrey, so I do not think it needs as much time in the cellar. In fact, it is so wonderful now, I would tend to enjoy it now and in the next 2-4 years. Cheers!
Lamb Meatballs with Curried Green Lentil Soup
Here is a lovely fall/winter recipe which is a slight modification of a dish we served at The Brasserie for years. Interestingly enough, three of our monthly selections will be exceptional accompaniments to this dish. Serves 6-8.
2010 Chateau Paul Mas, Clos des Mures
2007 Vacqueyras, Domaine La Fourmone
2006 Oliverhill Winery, “Jimmy Section” Shiraz
Ingredients:
- 1 large Spanish onion, minced
- 5 cloves garlic, minced
- 3 branches celery, minced
- 5 small red potatoes, diced 1/4''
- 2 tbsp. olive oil
- 4 tbsp. madras curry powder
- 2 boxes green lentils "du puy", rinsed
- 1 gallon chicken stock
- For the "bouquet garni" -3 thyme sprigs, 1 bay leaf, 3 basil stems, 10 black peppercorns, 3 allspice berries.
- 1/2 head Savoy cabbage, shredded finely
- 1 pound lean ground lamb
- Minced fresh herbs for garnish
- ½ teaspoon Rosemary (for lamb meatballs)
- 1 egg
- Salt & Pepper to taste
Method:
- Salt & pepper the ground lamb liberally. Add rosemary and egg. Work in with your hands
- Roll into small balls, about the diameter of a quarter. Set aside in refrigerator.
- Place half of the lentils in a saucepan and cover with water and a pinch of salt, bring to a boil and simmer until they are very soft.
- Drain and puree the lentils until smooth, cover and set aside.
- Lightly sauté the minced vegetables in the olive oil until onions are translucent.
- Add curry powder to the vegetables and sauté a bit longer.
- Transfer vegetables to a large pot; add the remaining lentils, chicken stock and "bouquet garni".
- Bring to a boil and simmer until lentils are tender.
- Add lentil puree and shredded cabbage, cooking until cabbage starts to wilt.
- Add lamb balls, turning down heat to low. Slowly simmer until lamb is cooked through.
- Season with salt, and ground black pepper.