Wine Club Newsletter - May 2011
The Wine in Spain is No Longer Mainly Plain
By Gary Parker
I’m on a bullet train from San Sebastian, Spain, on my way to Madrid. Traveling at speeds just south of 200 miles per hour, I have a few hours to relax before reaching my destination. The sun is setting behind some low lying hills, lighting the countryside with amber and golden hues. It is visually stunning, and as I am leaving Spain after nearly three weeks of wine tasting, dining and culture, it is a perfect time to reflect on my experiences in this beautiful country.
This was my first time to visit Spain. I was to go in January of 1996. I was actually sitting on board the plane in San Diego, eagerly anticipating my maiden first class plane ride to the country. However, before pulling back from the gate, the Pilot announced that the St. Louis connection was iced and snowed in, and we had to wait for clearance.
We disembarked the plane, as instructed, as another incoming flight needed to use our gate. But within about 4-5 minutes, the Pilot changed his mind as St. Louis suddenly called in “All Clear”. Those that had disembarked were called back onto the plane. We were the first off the plane, and out of earshot of the announcement, and they took off without us! Our bags went, but we didn’t. Staycation time.
In retrospect, I think it was fortuitous not getting to Spain until 2011. And why? For one, Spain has grown into a more friendly wine tasting country. Fifteen years ago, you could count on your hands wineries that would take in tourists for tours and tastings. That is changing dramatically, as we were welcomed and even solicited to have our groups come by and sample their wares and see their facilities.
Fifteen years ago, Spain wineries had not significantly invested in the vineyards and winemaking processes to go beyond their old world styles. Very few wineries were looking to the future. But in 1996, restrictions on irrigation were lifted, and the quality began to skyrocket. In present day, you see the results of the major investments and improvements in the production of fine wine. There are more exacting vineyard protocols, harvest procedures, fine oak barrels, and contemporary packaging. The consistent, overall quality of the today’s Spanish wine offerings are convincingly demonstrated with the exciting, well-priced selections we have in our local restaurants and wine shops.
Through the Rioja and Ribera del Duero wine regions, Tempranillo is the king of the red wine grape. The vast majority of the red wines are made using Tempranillo, either as the sole varietal, or as a high percentage of a blended wine. For the blended wines, The Tempranillo generally makes up to 70-90 percent of the Cuvée. For the remainder of their blends, they may add varying amounts of Granacha (widely grown, robust), Mazuelo (for balance) and Graciano (low yield, high quality). In Priorat Region, Granacha rules the varietals.
Some insist Tempranillo is “cousin” to Pinot Noir, but I don’t see much resemblance. One of our wine makers we visited said DNA evidence proved the Pinot Noir theory wrong. To me, Tempranillo feels and tastes more like Merlot with dark chocolate, cherry and deep red fruit nuances that are very appealing. The textures are typically silken, without a great deal of harsh tannins. The wineries are getting good fruit extraction from the grapes, and use French and American oak to round out the flavor profile. Quite yummy, we all agreed!
Here is an overview of how Spain delineates the quality of their wines on the labels:
Spain Age Designations:
Spanish wines are often labeled according to the amount of ageing the wine has received.
Vino Joven, or Vino del Ano: Young wine for immediate consumption, generally no use of wood.
Crianza: Up to two full calendars years of storage, minimum six months in barrel. For the Crianza white wines, six months in barrel and one year storage.
Reserva: Three calendar years in the Bodega, at least one year in the barrel. For Reserva white wines, two years in the Bodega after six months in the barrels.
Gran Reserva: Permitted only in exceptional vintages. Three years in the bottle after two years in barrel. Gran Reserva whites and rosés must be aged for at least 4 years with at least 6 months in oak.
Spain Quality Classifications:
Vino de Mesa (VdM): Cheap, branded table wines.
Vino de la Terra (VdIT): All grapes come from one region, like Frances ‘Vin de Pays’ system.
Vino de Calidad Producido en Región Determinada (VCPRD): This level is similar to France's ‘Délimité de Qualité Supérieure’ system and is considered a stepping stone towards DO status.
Denominación de Origen (DO): Comparable to Italian DOC, 2/3 of vineyard properties are used to make wine in this mainstream category.
Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa/DOQ): A “Super Category” for wines that meet special criteria of quality and consistency. Currently, you only find these in the wine regions of Rioja, Priorat, and Ribera del Duero.
The white wines don’t seem to get the same attention from the Spaniards as do the red, but I really did enjoy a number of them. Wine produced from the Verdejo grape prior to 2000 used to have an oxidized trait. This has now been replaced for a fresher, lighter style. The Albariño is aromatic, with high levels of acidity and low alcohol levels. Garnacha Blanc (white Grenache) is made with high alcohol and fruit levels, sometimes seeing oak aging. A wonderful everyday drinker is Viura (Mabaceo), which is an excellent stand alone varietal, but is also used with Xarel-lo and Parellada to make their sparkling Cava.
I had a number of great meals in every city I visited. With more tourism coming into their restaurants, many places have raised the bar in the quest for culinary excellence. Tapas is the big trend, but it turns out I am not a big fan of tapas, in general. I find many to have a lot of bread and fatty meats, which doesn’t suit my dietary or culinary sensibilities.
That being said, the best meal I had was at a Tapas bar in San Sebastian called Bar Zeruko. In fact, I had two meals at Bar Zeruko, one with each of the groups we took on the wine tour. Sitting down with 8 people, we could see it was going to be challenging to get the food we wanted, as we would have to battle the thundering herd standing around the food bar jockeying to place orders. English was a third language, which added to the intimidation factor.
I got the attention of the owner, a pleasant and attractive woman, who handed me the Chefs tasting menu. Light bulb went on. We don’t have to fight the crowds, do the tasting menu and we get eight tapas courses sent to us and avoid the frenzy. Sitting at a meal is so much more civilized, and we enjoyed watching the frenzied, stand up action as we sipped our wines, relaxing. I am very happy to report, by presentation, creativity, and execution of each dish, it was one of the most memorable meals I have ever had. Ever.
Also worthy of mention was Restaurant Urbano, a small, intimate space also in San Sebastian. Sit down meal, not tapas style. Also note, restaurant wine pricing is very fair at most every restaurant or tapas bar you visit.
Now doesn’t Spain sound great? Vale!
If you would like more information on the places we stayed, dined and wineries we visited, please feel free to email me, gparker@winesellar.com.
2009 Couples & Co. Chardonnay
Growing Region: Napa Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Chardonnay
Fermentation: 100% 11 Months French Oak
Suggested Retail: $25.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $19.44
Broad Strokes:
One of my favorite Professional golfer, Fred Couples, joins up with one of my favorite wine makers, Mitch Cosentino, to produce an excellent product that will have immediate brand recognition for the masses. Priced very well at $25 suggested retail, this wine will have traction in the market. We are proud to bring it to our WineSellar Club Members!
Appearance:
I LOVE the package. It’s a great silhouette image of Freddie Couples. It looks so familiar when you watch him gallivanting around the links. The smoky gray bottle and black/gray label with red highlights is masculine and appropriate. The wine is crystal clear, with white corn and very light yellow hues, becoming nearly clear around the edge. Nice viscosity, as the wine clings to the inside of the glass after swirling.
Nose:
Good Chardonnay forward fruit is in balance with a deft touch of sweet vanilla and oak. There is some ripe citrus aromas, more orange and tangerine like than lemon or lime, but very subtle. I noticed some pineapple when it was first opened, but gave way to become more like banana with a touch of cream sherry. Very nice!
Texture:
It is medium in body and weight, but has a richness that makes it linger and feel heavier than I think it really is. Which is great, as I am not a big fan of heavy Chardonnay. Evidently, the wine did not go through malolactic fermentation, giving it a nice edge of acidity, which bodes well for pairing with food and insuring the wine has a few years to go in the bottle.
Flavor:
As mentioned on the nose, excellent Chardonnay fruit carries through to the palate. This is a clean and refreshing style of Chardonnay, with edgy acid and a hint of citrus and white flowers. The oak aging has given it the extra weight and body, as well as flavor profiles one recognizes from fine barrel fermentation: vanilla, smoke and sometimes lightly buttered toast. Gains complexity with airing.
Serving Options:
Serve this with your golfing buddies. Everyone loves Freddie Couples. His smooth swing, swagger, and hitting the ball out of the park translates from his formidable golf game to his 2009 Chardonnay. Thanks Mitch, Freddie! Match ups would be white flesh fish with butter and herb sauces, and dishes like clams with linguini.
2009 Le Bec en Sabot, Pessac-Leognan
Growing Region: Bordeaux, France
Varietal Blend: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot
Fermentation: 100% 14-18 Months in Oak
Suggested Retail: $30.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $19.99
Broad Strokes:
Not too often we get a chance to go to Bordeaux for our selections. This beauty hails from the Graves region of Bordeaux, and it is a special production made by Chateau de France. The owner, Bernard Thomassin, who took over the Chateau in 1971, wanted to produce a Bordeaux wine that was ready to drink, hence the production of Le Bec en Sabot. Mr. Thomassin took this great property, which had been under disrepair for many decades, and refurbished it from top to bottom. This has been at great time and expense, but the end result has proven well worth that investment.
Appearance:
Le Bec en Sabot is the name of a large bird (up to five feet tall). Mr.Thomissin is an enthusiast of ornithology, and wanted to depict the bird he had seen in the marshlands of Africa on the label. Unique and fun! The wine looks very much like a Bordeaux of the modern day era. Nice extraction, but not too deep in color. Garnet shades with hints of red brick, becoming nearly clear on the rim. Nice coating of glycerin slowly glides down the inside of the glass.
Nose:
Well, not only does it look like Bordeaux, wonderfully, it smells like Bordeaux as well. Some youthful freshness is rising above the glass, showing raspberry and plum fruits. This is lined by a cedar like component, which brings in spice from the time spent in barrel. Some fresh herb and dark soil nuances are present and attractive.
Texture:
It’s not classic Bordeaux, but it has strong leans to modern day Bordeaux. Rich and extracted fruit, which is even and balanced to the wood treatment and the alcohol level (13%). There are some unresolved tannins and acidity, but I suspect these will resolve in less than a year in the bottle. Very long, medium weight finish.
Flavor:
Nice red fruits of plum and raspberry come through nicely. You can get to the wood notes rather easily, some vanilla (and chocolate?) hover over the cedar notes and spice. There is a certain earthiness on the finish to it, which by no means is funky, but rather elegant and attractive.
Serving Options:
This medium weighted wine may get overpowered by heavy styled dishes, so I would want to keep the food pairing throttled closer to neutral or so as far as seasonings and ingredients. The wine has 4-8 years in the bottle to evolve and improve. Wonderful Bordeaux at a great price!!!
2007 Leal Cabernet Sauvignon, San Benito, Estate
Growing Region: San Benito County, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation: 100% 22 Months in Oak
Suggested Retail: $32.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $16.20
Broad Strokes:
Yet another fabulous deal for our WineSellar Club members! A fine $32 Cabernet for $17.99 case purchase! How do we do it? We’re not telling right now, we’re just doing it. From the San Benito Estate Vineyards, just inland from Monterey Bay, comes a fine bottle of rich, well-endowed Cabernet we can sink our teeth into.
Appearance:
Black on black bottle and label with gold highlights is classy looking. The font is a little hard to read, but we get over that. The wine is black at the core, very deep red/magenta towards the rim of the glass, finally lightening up at the very edge. Looking younger than its years, the wine is very viscous and the colored curtains drip slowly down.
Nose:
Deep red and black fruit aromatics are forward and present, and make you want to return for additional hits on it. Nice Cabernet Sauvignon varietal notes of herb, some bell pepper, black pepper and forest floor/underbrush. A good dosage of wood notes, which are laced with vanilla and spice, adding a nice complexity to round out the profile. Roasted nuts.
Texture:
This is somewhere between medium full to full in weight and texture. Powerful and mouth filling on the attack, you know you are dealing with ripe, high octane Cabernet. It is even, with all this, and leaves a long lasting impression for a good while after you swallow. Tannins are present, but integrated well.
Flavor:
Beautiful flavors of dark berry, black berry and blueberry are solid and ripe. The oak adds the vanilla (perhaps a touch of chocolate as well?) and spice we got on the nose, and the Cabernet Sauvignon varietal nuances add herb, underbrush and black pepper.
Serving Options:
Anytime, anyplace. Whenever you may be in the mood for a good California Cabernet, break out the 2007 Leal. This would be great with grilled or BBQ’d meats! The wine may become further complex with a couple years in the bottle, however, it is drinking very well right now.
2006 Richard Partridge Cabernet Sauvignon
Growing Region: Napa Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation: 22 Months in Oak
Suggested Retail: $68.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $39.99
Broad Strokes:
This is a small production (under 1,000 cases of Chardonnay and Cabernet combined) hands on husband wife team wine producer who get it right. Their first release Cabernet was the second highest rated Cabernet for 1998 by James Laube of The Wine Spectator. I think winery owner Richard Partridge says it succinctly: “We are a boutique winery, and we never want to be large. We want our label to continue to represent quality, and by keeping production small we can continue to keep our eye on every part of the winemaking process, from grape growing to seeing our bottles on the shelf!”
Appearance:
Packaging is very cool, with custom cut label design, gold embossed font and oversized bottle, giving the impression something special is going to be in the bottle. The wine is nearly black at the core, brilliant magenta ruby moving out of center, and then to a touch of clear on the rim. The liquid is very thick, and the legs drip down very slowly inside the bowl.
Nose:
Very dark, black fruit aromatics jump from the glass. Notes of smoke, mahogany, underbrush, and Cabernet Sauvignon varietal fruit are exquisite and harmonious. Seemingly fresh for a 2006, it is just beginning to show signs of evolution with its burgeoning complexity.
Texture:
Feels like a good ol’ Napa Valley Cabernet to me! Powerful but sophisticated entry, makes you smack your lips a bit. It is a little forceful, but in balance, with its even fruit and retreated tannic acids. There is still a long life ahead on this baby, and for now, a very pleasant mouthful.
Flavor:
Winery says dark cherry, cassis and blackberry. I totally agree. I might ad the oak nuances are attractive, giving us that mahogany essence I noted on the nose. The aromatics also translate to the palate: underbrush, smoke, herbs. Basically, a big WOW!
Serving Options:
This is a beautifully crafted, excellent example of how excellent Napa Valley can make a Cabernet Sauvignon. Even though I referred to retreating tannins, it means integrated tannins. The wine has great structure, and will hold and improve for decades. It is certainly worthy of going into our collections!