Wine Club Newsletter - August 2013
Loire Valley Whites: A Primer
By Gary Parker
As we are in the summer swing of things, I have found myself enjoying white wines from the Loire Valley, very, very much. To those that know me, you have seen the bottle evidence on my table and at the outdoor grill. These wines are some of the most delicious, delightful and delectable white wines coming from France or anywhere in the world. I will take a group there next year to indulge my passion for these masterpiece white wines.
I find Loire Valley white wines to be brilliant with food or alone as an aperitif. They also age nicely in the cellar for a few years, rounding out and getting quite complex. My friends and dinner companions really don’t understand what they are all about, but they generally love the wines and ask me to tell them a bit more about them. I want to share some information with you as well as make a few suggestions for you to try.
The first thing you will notice is that there is no grape varietal on the label. Instead, as in other parts of France, the region it is from will be displayed prominently on the label. In the Loire, the region of its origin determines the varietal used for the wine.
There are three major white wine varietals used in the Loire Valley: Sauvignon Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne and Chenin Blanc. (The main red wine varietal in the Loire Valley is Cabernet Franc).
Sauvignon Blanc:
The Loire Valley is essentially the heart to the history of Sauvignon Blanc as a wine varietal. It is in the eastern side of the Loire Valley where we find the most noteworthy white wines coming from Sancerre, Pouilly-Fume, and Menetou-Salon. These wines are complex and weighty, showing a strikingly great balance of fruit to acid. Many of these wines are under $25, but some particular cuvee’s can get to over $40.
To a more simple degree, Touraine, Reuilly and Quincy offer clean, balanced Sauvignon Blanc wines that are less expensive and easy to quaff.
Melon de Bourgogne:
From the Muscadet region, this grape varietal is hardly planted anywhere else in the world, which is confounding, as it is recognized as one of the finest wines you could ever pair with seafood. And I will vouch for that!
The vineyards are located close to the Atlantic Ocean. Many people agree you can taste the crisp, clean fresh air from the nearby sea, as it imparts a zesty liveliness, with steely, mineral components that provide thoughtful, enjoyable drinking without the heavy weight of overripe fruit, wood or high alcohol.
The best Muscadet comes from the region of Muscadet Sevre et Maine, which is a land between the two rivers, Sevre and Maine. These wines are typically produced “Sur Lie”, which means the yeast cells were kept in the wine after fermentation. This adds finer, stronger acids and therefore complexities. For the best quality Muscadet, you can generally count on the ones labeled “Muscadet Sevre et Maine, Sur Lies”.
Muscadets are not expensive, generally under $20. If you love oysters, octopus, sushi, shrimp, or any shellfish, you would be challenged to find a wine better suited to pair with your meal. We made a special dish with Carlsbad Mussels with fennel, cream, white wine and shallots to match with our Muscadet by the glass. Yum!
Chenin Blanc:
The Chenin Blanc is the most complex and varied of the three main white wine varietals of the Loire Valley. They can be dry, semi dry, sweet, many for long term or short-term consumption, and we even see Sparkling wines from the grape varietal.
One of the more popular and common are the wines from Vouvray. These satisfying, easy to drink, mouth-filling sweet(ish) bundles of joy provide interesting drinking, again either with food or as an aperitif. Wines from the Anjou can be counted on to provide the same characteristics.
The Loire Valley sparkling wines hail from Saumur, and are made much in the same manner as Champagne for making Saumur and Cremant de Loire.
Wine from Savennieres is a must mention, but may not apply to this article, as the wines can be very edgy, hard, expensive, and in need of many years of aging before you can drink them pleasurably.
Here are some “Loire Valley White Wine Recommendations” I have been loving. I always advise to check with your favorite retailer for their opinions and suggestions
2011 Muscadet Sevre et Maine, Sur Lie, Domaine Des Quatre Routes. $10-$15.
2011 Pouilly-Fume’, Domaines des Fines Caillottes, Jean Pabiot. $20-$25
2011 Sancerre, Grand Reserve, Henri Bourgeois. $22-$28.
2011 Domaine Des Quatres Routes, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine, Sur Lie (Aug 2013 WineSellar Club)
Growing Region: Muscadet, Sèvre-et-Maine, France
Varietal Blend: Melon de Bourgogne
Fermentation: Stainless Steel Tanks, some Older Barrels
Suggested Retail: $15.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $12.59
Broad Strokes:
The pastoral appellation of Muscadet possesses the only classified vines in Brittany. This large appellation lies near the mouth of the Loire River, just to the south of the city of Nantes. Sèvre-et-Maine, which occupies the hills above the two small rivers (Sèvre and Maine) from which the appellation draws its name, is the finest part of the sprawling Muscadet appellation.
The finest wines of Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine provide splendid accompaniments to seafood and can hold their own with many more famous and expensive white wines. This is especially true when Muscadet is kept on its lies for several weeks or even months (designated by the words Sur Lie on the label and bottle) to gather additional flavor and texture. (Known as “lees” in English, these are deposits of yeast and other precipitated particles that fall to the bottom of the storage vessel.) Presently, the wine wares of Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine constitute some of the finest values in truly dry white wine.
Appearance:
Good looking bottle. I like the embossing, the label and the shape of the bottle. I am particularly enamored with the color scheme, as the pale chalk hue is reflective of their lands, and the green color reminds me of seaweed, which of course, the Muscadet is one of the most perfect fits for seafood on the planet. Well Done!
Nose:
Clean, fresh, lemony nose of fresh herb (basil) and fennel. The nice chalk and mineral come though with a hint of lime, clay, casaba melon, tangerine, kiwi and yogurt/sour cream. Especially note a scent of the sea.
Texture:
Bright acid and lean entry gives way to a crispy character, which transforms into a more rounded and angular beverage which seems to dance all over the palate.
Flavor:
Some sweet/tart play reminds me of a ripe kiwi or Mandarin Orange. Hot stone, chalk, lime, anise, mineral, with a nice herb cluster on the finish. Detected some kumquat and quince. Lovely!
Serving Options:
English wine writer Hugh Johnson has fondly referred to Muscadet as “Neptune’s Garden” in light of the wine’s heralded reputation for accompanying fish, shellfish and all kinds of fruits from the nearby sea. Oysters, shrimp, white fish, scallops, and mild white cheeses excel with this wine.!
2009 Experience Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley (Aug 2013 WineSellar Club, Two Rouge Club)
Growing Region: Napa Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Cabernet Franc
Fermentation: Oak Aging
Suggested Retail: $25.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $22.49
Broad Strokes:
With all my travels abroad, I had been woefully remiss about hitting our finest vineyards in the state, most notably the Napa Valley. I have been there twice now in the last twelve months, and have found it to be quite different than what I experienced ten years earlier. First, the town of Napa is now a mecca for all things food and wine. Great restaurants and places to hang out. The wine trail has become more Disney-like than wine like, which I suppose is a predictable evolution.
The one thing that really caught me was the pricing on the finer wines, the cult wines or established wineries pricing on some of their prized products. To cut to the quick, many of the finer Cabernet Sauvignon’s were $100-$200 a bottle.
I bring this up because our selection this month heralds from the same Napa Valley, and provides the characteristics and nuances of fine Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, but more at my level pricing. I am sure you will enjoy this excellent product and fine value!
Appearance:
I like the theme and graphic on the label. It says a lot about the product inside to me, as in from a reaching soulful “experience”. Very good color, nice legs and the overall appearance of the wine is very fine.
Nose:
Distinctively pure Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon fruit. It has a nice dark cherry component, with a touch of tobacco and black pepper to blend with the sweet kiss of vanilla oak.
Texture:
The texture is wonderful, elegant, seamless, almost dairy like quality with a small touch of acid. Perfect for its age. Balanced, even, slick and well mannered.
Flavor:
We can go to the nose for flavors, as they translate to the palate. I did notice a hint of caramel in the palate I did not detect on the nose however.
Serving Options:
Anytime, anywhere, any place. This is an outstanding wine, especially considering the price and pedigree. Great with all things that go with Cabernet.
2009 Joseph Jewell Zinfandel, Grist Vineyard (Two Rouge Club, Gary Parker Collection)
Growing Region: Dry Creek Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Zinfandel
Fermentation: Oak Aging
Suggested Retail: $36.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $30.59
Broad Strokes:
Here’s a great story about two young people getting their feet into the wine industry:
How do you break into the wine industry when you have no chateau, no big company to back you and no impressive pedigree of winemaking ancestors? Like many stories of triumph, the road to success started out with a simple idea, in this case, two guys in a garage and some pinot. Micah Wirth and Adrian Manspeaker had a lot of raw talent, a serious passion for wine and a ton of energy. In 2006, weather conditions had created a beautiful crop of pinot noir, and they knew the time was right. They carefully chose some excellent Russian River Valley grapes, invested in two French oak barrels and a small basket press and quietly produced 50 cases of a very elegant yet intense pinot noir.
The wine was a hit. Friends, family and local wine industry professionals who tasted the wine couldn’t get enough and soon the 50 cases were gone. Micah and Adrian decided they needed to get serious about starting a winery. Since they had no chateau or fancy winemaking relatives to name the wine after, they created their own pedigree by combining their middle names (Joseph and Jewell) and labeling the wine with a noble-looking coat of arms.
Since then, they’ve thrown their determination and creativity into several distinct wines, including their Russian River Valley Appian Way Pinot Noir, Dry Creek Valley Grist Zinfandel, and Alexander Valley Redwood Ranch Sauvignon Blanc, all exhibiting their unique elegant style of California winemaking with European finesse on the palate. Their passion for Pinot Noir is, however, still king. Micah and Adrian still don’t have the chateau, but they do have a collection of well-balanced, delicious wines that can stand up on their own.
Grist Vineyard
Grist Vineyard is located within the Dry Creek Valley on top of Bradford Mountain at 1000 feet elevation. We source fruit from block six which was planted in 1974 (older than both of us) and sits in a red volcanic soil. Grist vineyard is owned by Hambrecht Vineyards and farmed by Warren Burton, a very well qualified kiwi. In order to ensure even ripping, which is difficult with Zinfandel, Warren regularly drops unripe clusters and keeps the crop load around two tons per acre.
Winemaker Notes:
The 2008 Grist Vineyard Zinfandel shows a dark ruby core color with bright clarity and medium intensity in appearance. The developing nose shows medium plus intensity with aromas of baked plums, blackberries, black cherries, bramble and strawberry jam. The palate shows medium plus acidity, body and flavor intensity with medium to medium plus tannin and length. Rich, ripe, juicy red and dark fruits explode on the palate with lively acidity, ripe, round tannin and a rich viscosity.
2011 Domaine de la Solitude, Chateauneuf-du-Pape (July, 2013 Gary Parker Collection)
Growing Region: Rhone Valley, France
Varietal Blend: 55% Grenache, 20% Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault are remaining 25%
Fermentation: Wood and Vat
Suggested Retail: $46.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $40.49
Broad Strokes:
Brothers Michel and Jean Lancon have one of the appellation’s oldest estates, and as indicated in the fabulous new book on Chateauneuf du Pape by Harry Karis, Domaine de la Solitude first estate bottled their wine in 1815! Quality was fabulous in the sixties and early seventies, then dropped off until about a decade ago. Over the last ten years, these wines have gone from strength to strength, and are now some of the finest of the appellation. This large, 100-acre property is one of the few Chateauneuf du Pape estates whose vineyard is situated in one particular sector, the lieu-dit called La Solitude. The Wine Advocate.
Appearance:
What a great looking package! Of course I LOVE the embossing, but the colors and the foil treatment. On the label, the family crest of three bees, dates to the middle ages. The three hats at the top of the label signify a pope (Urbain VIII) and two bishops from the family. Brick red and very dark at the core, becoming clear at the edges, reflecting a youthful magenta hue. Beautiful and glistening, clinging to the glass leaving slow dripping black/red curtains.
Nose:
Dark red and black fruits with earth tones. Raspberry and licorice, with currants, leather, kirsch, black pepper and stewed berries. Good note of fresh herbs.
Texture:
The wine is viscous and mouth-filling, with an ever present almost oil like coating that seems to have a life of its own. A very good line of acidity, tannic and youthful, doing battle with the high alcohol content. Very ripe fruit, well balanced, the acids are checked with the assertive fruit nearly perfect.
Flavor:
Classic Chateauneuf-du-Pape “garrique” (the herbal scent of lavender that fills the hills of Provence in the summer time). The wine is bright, youthful, with red berry, (sour) Cherry, with notes of licorice, hot gravel/stones/asphalt with fresh herbs. A total winner!
Serving Options:
This is a great wine for our cellars. Get 6-12 bottles, trying your first one in about 8 years. Should go 15 years or more.
Carlsbad Mussels in Fennel Cream
No Matter which WineSellar Club you subscribe to, you need to pick up a bottle of this Muscadet and try it with our local Carlsbad mussels. It is a classic match made in . . . your kitchen.
Serves Two.
Serve with 2011 Muscadet Sevre et Maine, Sur Lies, Domaine Quatres Routes
Ingredients:
- 1 tbs cooking oil
- 1 tbs butter
- ½ tbs garlic
- Pinch chili flake
- ½ small fennel bulb sliced
- ¼ cup diced Spanish chorizo (or sausage of your choice)
- ½ cup white wine white wine
- ¼ cup Pernod
- 1/4 cup cream
- ½ lb mussel
- Italian Parsley for garnish, or chopped parsley
Method:
- De-beard the Mussels and set aside in refrigerator
- In a sauce pan on medium high heat, combine the oil, butter, garlic, chili flake and simmer
- When it becomes aromatic, de glaze the pan with the white wine and the Pernod
- Add the fennel, Spanish chorizo
- Add the butter and let it sweat at medium heat until the fennel becomes translucent
- Add the mussels
- Cover and cook until all the mussels have opened, about 3-5 minutes
- Garnish with parsley