Wine Club Newsletter - September 2013
Hard to Fathom Wine
I was recently struck by a couple of articles and photographs involving wineries dropping their wine to the sea bottom to age, either while it is still in the barrel or in the bottle. The concept sounds cool, as it seems to be a more organic method of maintaining a relatively constant temperature through the process of either fermenting the wine or of bottle storing.
In doing some research, I came across this great article at the Wine Folly web page. Enjoy!
Unlimited free temperature controlled space is a compelling reason for aging wine underwater.
Let’s take a look and see if wine has a future underwater.
I first heard of aging wine underwater in 2008 when my boss went to a Spanish wine tasting in San Francisco. During the tasting he sent me pictures of bottles with descriptions like “wtf” and “holy shit.” –All very technical wine terms.
He brought back a wine that had been aged underwater called Sketch by Spanish winemaker Raul Perez. A bit of an odd guy, Raul Perez is known for finding and using the grapes from very old vineyard plots all over Northwestern Spain. Sketch hails from Rias Baixas (pronounced Ree-yus BYE-shus) and is made from a white wine grape called albariño. The vineyard is located in Dena, Spain, just 500 feet from the Atlantic ocean. After making the wine, it’s put in bottles and sent to the bottom of the sea in the nearby bay. The wine sits from 60 days or more until someone on a boat with a scuba suit goes to retrieve it.
An anaerobic pressurized environment such as the bottom of the ocean acts more as a time capsule. The sea maintains temperature and the currents gently rock the bottles. After we tasted Sketch it was clear that the act of aging it underwater didn’t really matter to the wine itself. It had merit on its own, it was delicious.
Is there a U-Pick wine-of-the-sea? I would pay good money to go diving for a bottle.
Knowing that the wine was once in the ocean did change the way we perceived it. As we tasted it, we imagined the people on the boat going to extricate their underwater wine treasure trove. The wine’s natural salinity evoked the idea of the sea and I find myself longing to be there. An idea pops into my head: is there a U-Pick wine-of-the-sea? I would pay good money to go diving for a bottle.
WHO is Putting Wine Overboard? The List.
Ever since finding out about Sketch in 2008 we’ve discovered a few other people aging wine underwater. As far as we can tell, white and sparkling wine are the only styles of wine that get dunked. There have been tests in large lakes and rivers (that don’t freeze) as well. If you find out about one not listed below, put a note in the comments.
- Bisson Abissi Prosecco from Liguria, Italy
- Raul Perez Sketch from Dena, Spain
- Château Champ des Soeurs et l’Abbaye Sainte-Eugénie in Fitou, France is a white Corbieres with a synthetic cork by Nomacorc
- Louis Roederer (the makers of Cristal) sunk a lot of champagne in the Bay of Mont Saint-Michel in Normandy, France where temperatures maintain an even 50° F
- Chateau Larrivet Haut-Brion experimented aging a 56 liter barrel of Bordeaux in the Bay of Arcachon calling it “Neptune”
- Gaia Winery on Exo Gonia Island in Santorini, Greece
- Henri Maire from Arbois, France has submerged wines in an ancient underwater Abbay in Lake of Vouglans, France’s 3rd largest man-made lake
Mira Winery aged their Napa red wines for 3 months in Charleston Harbor, South Carolina
WHY Cellar Wine Underwater?
There have been reports of wineries aging wine underwater in Italy, France and Spain. The benefits of aging wine underwater are clear.
- Median temperatures at the bottom of the ocean in these regions maintain 50-55° F.
- Ideal low light environment
- Oxygen contamination is not an issue
- Temperature control and storage area is free.
- High pressure maintains sparkling wines
- Oak aged wines get increased sodium carbonate increasing flavor complexity
Besides all the good reasons a scuba-loving winemaker may find, there are a wealth of problems with aging wine underwater. Be very afraid of wine-loving mollusks, pirates and saltwater contamination. Plus, every bottle incurs the cost of schlucking it in and out of the ocean.
Bottle includes free urchins! Photo by nomacorc at Saint Brieuc
Domaine Saint-Lannes 2012 Cotes de Gascogne Blanc (Sept 2013 The WineSellar Club)
Growing Region: Gascone, France
Varietal Blend: 80% Colombard, 10% Ugni Blanc, 10% Groa Manseng
Fermentation: Steel Tank Fermentation
Suggested Retail: $15.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $10.79
Broad Strokes:
Domaine de Saint-Lannes, located in the centre of Gascony, has been owned by the Duffourfamily for several generations. Michel Duffour took over the estate in 1971 and his approach is very much based on quality rather than quantity. By reducing yields and working meticulously in the winery he has made this estate one of the best and most consistent in the area. A smart new label was introduced in April 2010.
The Gascony region is generally known for making cognac and brandy. The white wines produced here are generally characterized a bracing acidity which can come off-putting or quite exciting. I found the Domaine St. Lannes to be quite exciting.
Appearance:
I really love the overall looks and of course the screw cap. But the clear bottle, classic and contemporary looking label is pleasing to my eye. Especially after what I have tasted what’s inside and associate that with the package.
Nose:
Watch out! The first aromatics are what we sometimes call “Stinky French”. This is a term we use to describe a core of focused, dense herb, which generally melds into the nose and makes the aromatics more complex. Anise, crushed herbs, some chalk and mineral.
Texture:
As mentioned above, it’s a bit bitey and bracing at first take, but quickly begins to soften and take on a delightful, mouth freshening acidity with a touch of creaminess. Go figure! It always stays lively in tongue and active in the palate.
Flavor:
I am going to bet you’ll taste most of these at one point: anise, pear, melon, lychee nut, peach, dill, lime, kiwi, Mandarin Orange, Granny Smith, fresh spring water, white pepper, grapefruit, honey, cream.
Serving Options:
This is a GREAT aperitif wine, and super with all cheeses. Would be great with spicy foods, sushi. I served it to group of eight the other night and they walked out with cases of this.
2011 “1448” Red Blend, Jeff Rundquist (Sept 2013 WineSellar Club & Two Rouge Club)
Growing Region: Amador County, California
Varietal Blend: 54% Petite Sirah, 31% Petit Verdot, 4% Barbera, 3% Syrah, 2% Zinfandel, 2% Carignane, 2% Souzao
Suggested Retail: $20.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $17.10
From The Winery:
Jeff Runquist launched his own label with the 1995 vintage of the “Z” Zinfandel from the Massoni Ranch in Amador County’s Shenandoah Valley. Jeff, a graduate of UC Davis, was the winemaker for Montevina Wines in Amador County, the Napa Valley Cooperative Winery in St. Helena, the J. Lohr Winery in San Jose and Paso Robles and McManis Family winery. In the fall of 2006, Jeff purchased a five acre parcel in Amador County’s Shenandoah Valley. He constructed a small winery and tasting room that opened in May of 2008. In the spring of 2010 a larger production-oriented facility was erected adjacent to the tasting room.
All of Jeff’s wines share a similar theme of fresh fruit reflective of the varietal flavors inherent in the grapes. He has selected his grapes from vineyards that provide rich full flavors without loads of astringent tannins. “By keeping the lots small”, Jeff says. "We can treat each vineyard differently with regard to yeast, fermentation, temperature, oak, and how long they stay on the lees. Recently, Jeff was the recipient of the prestigious André Tchelistcheff Winemaker of the Year Award from the San Francisco International Wine Competition.
The elevation of the Amador County winery. The wine with this name is a blend of all the wines that don’t fit into their varietal program. At the conclusion of barrel aging, they evaluate each individual barrel. If it does not contribute to the expression of the vineyard from which it comes, it contributes to the expression of the 1448. It makes sense, then, that the major contributor to the blend is the varietals of which they produce the most - Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot.
The 2011 1448® has deep, thick color one would expect form a wine that is predominately Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot. The aromas feature smoky currants and concentrated black fruits. Mocha, caramel, and milk chocolate provide a sweet inviting bouquet. The flavors are big, rich and creamy. Dense ripe, black fruits flow across a deeply toasted oak background. The time in small barrels contributes to the rich body and luscious mouth-feel. As with all the Jeff Runquist Wines, the tannins are mature and well-integrated, leading to a smooth lingering finish.
BBQ WINE!!!!!
2010 De Iuliis "LDR Vineyard" Shiraz, Hunter Valley (Sept 2013 Two Rouge Club & Gary Parker Collection)
Growing Region: New South Wales, Australia
Varietal Blend: 100% Shiraz
Suggested Retail: $37.50
WineSellar Club Case Price: $31.49
Broad Strokes:
De Iuliis [de uli - iss] is a Hunter Valley wine producer established by the De Iuliis family and operated by Michael De Iuliis.
Originating from Italy the De Iuliis family have made the Hunter region their home since 1960. After a long successful career in the Hunter mining industry, Joss and Anna De Iuliis were inspired to follow their family passion for wine and chose a property in the Lovedale Road region of the Lower Hunter Valley, converting a grazing property into a 20ha vineyard with the first vines planted in 1990. For the first decade they provided fruit for some of the Hunter Valley’s biggest names.
Today, De Iuliis wines are known for their trademark Hunter regionality and commitment to showcasing the very best the Hunter Valley has to offer. The Australian Wine Companion by James Halliday has been rating De Iuliis Wines a 5 star winery since 2010. The family’s vision is to continue producing wines of excellence and outstanding quality from individual paddocks, wines of distinction, which they are proud to have their name on.
Appearance:
Name can be problematic to pronounce, making it a barrier for some to pick up off the shelf. The bottle appearance is very fine and to the point. A little hard to read the Varietal “SHIRAZ” is or is it just me? Deep blue-black-violet hue which is gorgeous. Screw cap!
Nose:
Dark plum and berry fruit, spicy, earthy, and ready for you. Got some clove and mint, black pepper, earth, and a damp green kind of moss or herb. Very interesting!
Texture:
Hearty in the mouth, but still has a fresh fruit feel. Medium to a little bit more than that in body. A nice strawberry/pomegranate acid holds things in check nicely.
Flavor:
Dark berry and plum, with root beer, cherry, dark bitter chocolate and that edgy herbal note from the nose comes to the palate. And here are two things I don’t get often in a red wine; White tree fruit and malted.
Serving Options:
This is great with fat marbled meats on the BBQ or with bitter chocolate.
2010 Woodward Canyon “Artist Series” Cabernet Sauvignon (Sept 2013 Gary Parker Collection)
Growing Region: Washington State
Varietal Blend: 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot
Fermentation: French Chateaux Barrels
Suggested Retail: $50.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $44.99
Broad Strokes:
Woodward Canyon Winery, known for their premium award-winning wines, is tucked away in the Walla Walla Valley at Lowden, Washington and was founded in 1981 by winemaker, Rick Small and his wife, Darcey Fugman-Small.
Their line-up of wines include merlots, chardonnays, many other wine varietals, and last but not least, Woodward Canyon's selection of cabernet sauvignons. Their current selection of cabernet sauvignons include: Walla Walla Valley, Old Vines Reserve, Nelms Road, and Woodward Canyon's Artist Series.
This “Artist Series” Cabernet Sauvignon is produced from some of the finest and most highly regarded vineyards in Washington State. Each produces fantastic wine in their own right; when blended they produce extraordinary wine. The vineyards are: Champoux Vineyard (55%), Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard (24%), Sagemoor Vineyard (17%), and Weinbau (4%).
The recent vintage 2010 Woodward Canyon "Artist Series" Cabernet was included in Decanter Magazine's, Top Wines of Washington.
Appearance:
Great label concept with a portion of the proceeds going to aid those with cystic fibrosis. Reminds me of Kenwood’s Artist Series beginning a decade earlier. Great looking Cabernet Sauvignon, balanced in it’s crimson coloring.
Nose:
Varietal correct and very enticing Cabernet Sauvignon fruit, red and black fruits with hints of black pepper, bell pepper and ripe plum. Note a hint of beef jerky, tobacco and wood.
Texture:
Firm and rich, with well-integrated tannins. Mouth-watering and feeling like a fine ride.
Flavor:
Excellent Cabernet fruits (as in the nose) with ripe plum, cherry, dark berry, chocolate, cocoa, cappuccino, vanilla and Smith Brothers Cough Drops.
Serving Options:
This will age ten years or more, and should be placed in the cellar to enjoy in 2023.
White Fish with Clams, Leeks and Saffron
Serves four
Serve with the 2012 Domaine Saint-Lannes Cotes de Gascone Blanc
Ingredients
- 4 six-ounce filets of fresh white fleshed fish (sea bass, orange roughy, etc.
- 2 pounds of fresh Manilla or Littleneck clams, thoroughly cleaned
- 8 medium leeks, halved lengthwise, cleaned and sliced thinly
- 2 cups chardonnay
- 1 medium celery stalk, cleaned and sliced
- 1 Spanish onion, peeled and sliced
- 4 cloves garlic, peeled and halved
- 1 small carrot, cleaned and sliced
- 2 roma tomatoes, quartered
- 1 lemon, sliced
- 1 bay leaf
- 2 large sprigs fresh basil
- pinch of saffron
- 2 tablespoons sweet butter
- kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1/4 cup finely minced Italian parsley
Method
- Combine the chardonnay, celery, onion, garlic, carrot, tomatoes, lemon, bay leaf and basil in a large pot, bring to a boil and simmer for 15 minutes.
- Add the clams and steam until they open, be careful not to overcook them.
- Drain the liquid from the clams through a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth.
- When the clams are cool enough to handle, remove them from their shells and reserve, discard the clam shells and vegetables.
- Pour the broth into a shallow pan with a tight-fitting lid, large enough to hold the fish.
- Add the saffron to the broth and bring a boil and reduce until two cups of liquid remain.
- Add the sliced leeks and cook them until they are tender yet not too soft.
- Place the filets of white fish into the hot broth, cover and simmer over low heat until they are cooked to the desired degree of doneness, about ten minutes per inch of thickness.
- Carefully remove the fish and cover to keep warm.
- Return the broth to a boil and add the reserved clams, swirl in the butter and season to taste with salt and pepper.
- Add the minced parsley and divide the clams, leeks and broth among four large bowls.
- Top each with a filet of the white fish