Wine Club Newsletter - April 2018
China Response Hits California Winemakers
Interesting article from New York Times . . . sometimes in business, outside forces can prove to be quite challenging. GP
Growers have spent years cultivating Chinese market
Cabernet isn’t the most obvious pawn in a trade war between the United States and China. Airplanes and their parts are the leading U.S. export to China. Soybeans and wheat grow in Trump country. But China’s selection of wine as a target of retaliatory tariffs did not surprise Michael Honig, a winemaker in the Napa Valley, where the tariff would hit hardest.
“The reason the government realizes they should penalize us is, we are branded,” said Honig, the president of Honig Vineyard and Winery. “It’s hard to go after a wheat grower, because who is a wheat grower? It’s a commodity. We are not a commodity.”
The news was an unwelcome turn of events for Honig and many California winemakers, who have spent years trying to carve out a place in the hearts of wealthy Chinese consumers. That hard work has earned them a prized sliver of what is becoming one of the fastest- growing markets for wine imports.
China’s imports of American wine reached $82 million last year — not including bottles entering duty-free through Hong Kong — a seven-fold increase in the last decade. But growing visibility may have turned Napa wine into easy prey.
“Wine is something people can relate to,” said Jim Boyce, who has been covering the industry from Beijing for a decade on his blog, the Grape Wall of China. “It’s like putting a tariff on Chinese dumplings. It’s something you can feel on an emotional and personal level.”
The 15 percent tariff, announced Monday, on top of existing tariffs and taxes, is a gut punch to winemakers marketing their wares to the mushrooming legions of young, recently wealthy Chinese.
It is that group, one or two levels below China’s ultra-rich, that holds huge potential for California vintners. Those consumers are far more numerous than 1 percenters. And more crucially, they’re the ones driving the recent blossoming of a wine culture in China in which bottles are actually consumed rather than simply traded among elites as trophies.
Honig and his business partner and wife, Stephanie, have spent a decade wooing that clientele, making a trip a year to China to pitch sommeliers in top restaurants and hotels. He has recently expanded beyond the obvious stops in Beijing and Shanghai, visiting cities like Guangzhou, in southern China.
“There are people who want to spend the most, but there are also aspirational buyers,” Michael Honig said. “You may want to buy the Rolls-Royce, but you can afford the Mercedes.” And that’s his sweet spot.
His most popular cabernet goes for around $25 a bottle wholesale, and he sends more than 500 cases of it every year to a plucky Shanghai importing business started by two brothers with dual citizenship.
With existing tariffs and value added taxes mixed in, the total charge tacked on to California wine was already close to 50 percent. After the importer factors in shipping, takes its cut and passes the bottles to a hotel or retail store, which takes its cut, the Napa red ends up selling for the equivalent of around $100.
An extra 15 percent charge would be brutal. “No one wants to overpay,” Honig said. “If all they’re looking at is two different bottles side by side, and we are competing with Australia and Chile, that’s a big competitive disadvantage.”
Chilean and New Zealand wines face no Chinese levies, thanks to free-trade agreements. Australian bottles will enter the country tariff-free next year.
BY NATALIE KITROEFF
New York Times
Chile Wine Dinner
Saturday, April 14th at 6:00 pm.
Ever wonder what you would be missing on our Chile trip? Treat your family and friends to an amazing wine paired dinner with wines from Chile they will not forget. Make a reservation today by calling (858)450-9557 or at the front desk!
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2011 Shiraz, Frankland Estate, Isolation Ridge Vineyard
Growing Region: Frankland River Region, Western Australia
Varietal Composition: 100% Shiraz (Syrah)
Fermentation: Barrel Aging
Alcohol Content: 14.5%
Suggested Retail: $40.00
WineSellar Club Price: $31.49
Critical Acclaim:
95 Australian Wine Companion
91 Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
90 Wine & Spirits
Broad Strokes:
Buried deep in Western Australia’s most isolated wine region, Frankland Estate is as much a part of its natural landscape as it is a winery. Today Frankland Estate is a tightknit family affair. Our children Elizabeth and Hunter and their small families live on the property. We all work together with a small, hardworking, and enthusiastic team to produce distinctive and flavorsome wines. Since our founding in 1988, our approach includes organic viticulture, carefully nurturing the health of the soils in our vineyard, and only taking from our land as much as can be later replaced by natural processes. Our passion for sustainable farming was recognized in 2009, when we were awarded on organic certification.
Appearance:
It has a nicely understated label with some embossing. Back label is all import business facts. The wine is dark garnet with a solid black core, which barely goes clear at the rim.
Nose:
Fresh roasted coffee, deep blackberry, very complex and super lovely! Black licorice meets blackberry fruit, with floral elements of lilac, and lavender, spice of clove and nutmeg.
Texture:
Lively, fresh dark fruit is forward, backed by a perfect foil of cherry acid. You would think the acid feel would be higher, but it comes across as velvety.
Flavors:
Black fruits, blackberry, and blackberry pie. The fruit is dense and assertive but does not overpower. Nearing a Rhone Valley taste of the great Cote-Rotie, bringing forward the licorice, earth notes of stone and soil, black pepper, bitter chocolate, and pastry dough.
Serving Suggestions:
In our August 2015 offering, I submitted my recipe for Braised Pork Chops with Cherry Sauce. That would be fabulous with this wine . . . you could substitute lamb, beef or duck. If you need a copy of that recipe, email me. This wine will last ten more years, easily.
2015 Andrew Lane Cabernet Sauvignon, Lake County
Growing Region: Lake County, California
Varietal: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation: 18 Months French Oak
Alcohol Content: 14.8%
Suggested Retail: $35.00
WineSellar Club Price: $31.49
Broad Strokes:
A few years back we had the 2012 Andrew Lane Cabernet in both the Two-Rouge Club and the Gary Parker Collection. Interestingly, in reviewing the notes on the 2012, I found some very similar traits between the two vintages from different appellations.
Producing wine for nearly 40 years, this family owned winery is now spearheaded by two brothers, Andrew and Lane Dickson. Their parents before them had established a good number of vineyard connections through the years, and the blessing of those relationships have steered Andrew and Lane into a very successful, popular winery. It’s a good story, and an excellent wine. Enjoy!
Appearance:
I love the label illustrating the two young brothers working an old barrel crusher. I’m actually touched by it, really. Sniffling aside, the font and letters stand out very well, and you immediately know what you’re getting when you see it on the shelf. The wine is beautiful dark purple, with oil-like legs that drip slowly down the inside of the glass.
Nose:
It seems like the aromatics are constantly evolving. Starts off with wood and toasted nuts, then gives way to black fruits, vanilla oak and raspberry. Toasted pine nuts, laced by vanilla oak, smoke and soy sauce.
Texture:
It has a solid feel, firm in structure, with youthful tannic acids. and delicious feel in the mouth. Solid fruits, perfect fruit to acid balance, the middle palate is quiet for the first 10 minutes or so, then becomes quite generous. Enjoy the long and persistent finish.
Flavors:
The flavors are a WOW also! Rich, dense fruit is packed with blackberry and blueberry, ripe pomegranate, with notes of lavender, Asian spices, sweet vanilla oak, very ripe plum, and dairy. Reminds me of a chocolate covered ice cream cone, with nuts on it.
Serving Suggestions:
What a lovely wine. I am certain it will add to the complexities of the wine over time, but it is drinking so fantastic right now you almost hate to leave it around. So, I say buy 6-12 bottles, and drink from today to twenty years from now.
2014 Acumen Cabernet Sauvignon, Mountainside
Growing Region: Napa Valley, California
Varietal Composition: 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 6% Malbec, 5% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petite Verdot
Fermentation: 18 Months 100% New French Oak, 72% New
Alcohol Content: 14.0%
Suggested Retail: $60.00
WineSellar Club Price: $52.19
Broad Strokes:
Acumen was the home of world-renowned winemaker Denis Malbec, who at the time had already authored numerous perfect 100-point wines at legendary Bordeaux house Château Latour, as well as Kapcsandy Winery in Napa Valley. Tragically, Denis passed away in 2016, leaving behind a wonderful family and a legacy of profound wines.
This is a glorious Bordeaux blend wine, from the highly sought after, “Cult” producer in Napa Valley.
Gary’s Tasting Notes:
The wine opens with a beautiful, beguiling fragrance, bolstered by 18 Months in 72% new French oak. The wine has the taste and feel of a fine Bordeaux made in Napa Valley Mountains. It is smooth, elegant, texturally very gratifying, sleek, elegant, and ready to drink. The wine is medium in body and has a very appealing feel in the mouth. Not an overwhelming fruit-bomb, but rather a blend of New World (powerful, fruit forward) and Old World (elegance, balance, texture) styles. In addition to the winery tasting notes, I enjoyed these flavors: raspberry, dark cherry and chocolate. Finishes dry, clean, lightly, with a touch of slate.
Winery Tasting Notes:
With a rich garnet color, this full-bodied wine opens with aromas of violets, pomegranate, and freshly toasted oak barrels, with a hint of potpourri and crisp linen. On the palate we find flavors of fresh cherries, Chambord, caramel, red plums, Earl Grey tea, and Anisette, with well-structured tannins and hints of dark cocoa, marzipan, and French Roast coffee on the long, and mouth-coating finish.
Winery Vintage Notes:
Remembered locally in Napa Valley as “The Year of the Quake”, rains in late February and early March of 2014 gave vines a much-needed drink as they were emerging from dormancy and about to begin bud-break. A warm and gentle spring allowed for water conservation as no sprinklers were needed for frost protection during bud break. Smooth growing conditions allowed for ideal flower, fruit set, vine growth, and veraison, with harvest coming in about 2 weeks earlier than average. This produced nice crop loads and good, even ripeness coupled with excellent concentration and structure. We feel that 2014 represents one of the best vintages of the decade, even better than the highly-lauded 2013s.
2013 Crosby Roamann, Reserve Blanc
Growing Region: Wilson Ranch, Napa Valley, California
Varietal Composition: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
Fermentation: 18 Months, New French Oak
Alcohol Content: 14.5%
Suggested Retail: $45.00
WineSellar Club Price: $31.49
From the Winery:
Crosby Roamann is a collaboration of the husband and wife team of Juliana and Sean W. McBride. We only make small lots of wine: nothing more than what we can produce ourselves, with help from friends and family. We get our hands dirty: we are the people picking the grapes, re-coopering the barrels, performing the punch-downs, and pressing the wines gently by hand. We pay attention to detail: there’s no guidebook; there’s no formula; there’s no recipe. We make the wines differently every year. Often they are very different wines, from each other, and from everything else available. They are unique.
Appearance:
The winery always creates a beautiful looking bottle, classy, refined, and this white wine is no exception to the cause. How many wineries put a white wine in a package this rock solid? Very few, and it speaks to the absolute quality of this wine. A beautiful golden hue with silver tones, showing no signs of it’s five years old.
Nose:
Crème Brule. (Tastes that way too, but not with the sweetness.) Its gorgeous aromatics bring solid white fruit, vanilla, caramel, Meyer lemon, fig, melon, and Key lime pie.
Texture:
Balanced and lovely palate entry, as the creamy center is laced with a tiny tart acid trying to show itself, but is not a player. Smooth, rich middle mouth evolves to a long, creamy, mouth watering finish.
Flavors:
White cherry, ripe cantaloupe, tangerine, and some tropical fruit flavors to include banana, pineapple and mango. Some notes of nuts, toasted almond, walnut, oak influenced no doubt. Also got some coffee and cream, latte-like, Almond Roca.
Serving Suggestions:
This wine is classy. I would be super-proud to serve it to anyone of my friends. Yeah, I think both of them! Really folks, like a Great White Bordeaux at 1/3 the price. Love it!!
2013 CP La Spinetta Barbera
Growing Region: Piemonte, Italy
Varietal Composition: 100% Barbera
Fermentation: 80% Steel. 20% Used Wood Barrels
Alcohol Content: 14.0%
Suggested Retail: $15.00
WineSellar Club Price: $12.59
Broad Strokes:
From the makers of La Spinetta, a great value Italian beauty! Let me tell you what critics say about La Spinetta’s much heralded winemaker, Giorgio Rivetti: “One of Italy’s most fashionable winemakers/proprietors, Giorgio Rivetti displays a masterful touch whether he is making Barbera, Moscato d’Asti, or his proprietary red wine Pin.” Robert Parker, Jr. “Giorgio Rivetti, owner and winemaker of La Spinetta in Barbaresco, has become one of the leading forces in Piedmont. He’s making exciting ripe, fruit-forward wines that would give many highly rated New World wines a run for their money. Rivetti is first and foremost a winemaker—one of the best and most innovative winemakers in Piedmont today. But he is also in tune with today’s consumer, whom he believes shares his preference for wines that are more approachable on release.” — The Wine Spectator
Appearance:
Slick, uncomplicated, yet dynamic looking package. It makes you wonder what it is, makes you want to pick it up. The wine is totally black in the center, and just eeks out to a bit of clear when it gets to the rim.
Nose:
Roasted nuts and leather are first out of the gate, then overtaken by dark cherries, blackberries, blueberries and plum on the nose. There is a perky bit of cherry liqueur, and the whole fragrance lingers in the glass.
Texture:
It starts off a bit edgy and tannic, but then grows into a medium to medium full-bodied wine with a solid line of acidity. There is a good amount of tannins, and the finish is crisp, fresh and clean.
Flavors:
Reflecting the aromatics, the wine is powered by fruit nuances, blueberry, blackberry, plum, and dark cherries.
Serving Suggestions:
This is a GREAT value wine, drinking well beyond the price tag. Have it with classic Italian dishes, such as pasta, sausages, cheeses and olives. Will hold for five years.
Lemon Rice Salad
A fresh lemon-herb dressing pairs well with the nutty flavor of basmati rice. Cool and gently fluff the basmati before dressing to ensure a light salad. This is a recipe from one of my favorites, Chef John Ash. I went to a cooking and wine pairing class of his a few years back and thought highly of his commentary and execution. This will pair wonderfully with the 2013 Crosby Roamann Reserve Blanc.
Yields about 5 cups.
Ingredients
- 1/4 cup minced shallots or scallions (white and green parts)
- 2 Tbs. olive oil
- 1 cup basmati or jasmine rice, well rinsed
- 2 cups rich vegetable or chicken stock
- 1 tsp. grated lemon zest
- 2-1/2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
- 1/3 cup roughly chopped cilantro, basil, mint, or a mix
- 1 tsp. finely minced garlic
- 1/2 cup finely diced red onion, rinsed in cold water
- 1/2 cup diced red bell pepper
- 1/3 cup lightly toasted pine nuts, pepitas, or chopped cashews
Preparation
- In a deep saucepan over moderate heat, sauté the shallots in 1 Tbs. of the olive oil until soft but not brown.
- Add the rice and continue to sauté for 2 to 3 minutes longer, stirring regularly.
- Add the stock and bring to a boil.
- Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover, and continue to cook until all the liquid is absorbed, 14 to 16 minutes.
- Remove from the heat and let stand, partially covered, for 5 minutes.
- Gently fluff the rice with a fork and pour into a large bowl to cool completely.
- Add the lemon zest, juice, herbs, garlic, onion, bell pepper, nuts, and remaining 1 Tbs. of olive oil to the rice and gently stir to combinne.