Wine Club Newsletter - August 2018
Wineries World Wide Hedge Against Climate Change Move to Cooler Sites
Growers say impact of global warming is evident in grape crops . . .
Weather (sic) you believe in global warming and climate change, or not. There seems to be a number of grape growers and wine producers that do. I can vividly remember going to a winery in England 8 years back, and the older, grizzled owner/winemaker told me they were betting on climate change with new plantings and the introduction of Sparkling wines to their lineup. He has been making wine for decades in Kent, and he is certain the chance to produce world-class wines was high.
To further his theory, Taittinger and Pommery, two of the largest Champagne makers in France, have committed to add operations and facilities in the countryside of England. “The weather and climate is not completely the same [as Champagne] at the moment, but with climate change we assume that in 10 to 30 years it will be very different and it will be qualitatively interesting to produce sparkling wines in the UK,” said Julien Lonneux, Vranken Pommery UK’s CEO.
“We only go where we think that we can plant our own vineyards, produce interesting wines and control the full process from production to commercialization. This is what we do – taking care of the land and then the wines.”
In the meantime, Pommery has scoured the English countryside, dabbling with grapes from mainly Hampshire, but also Essex and Sussex, to produce its first Louis Pommery Brut – a traditional-method English sparkling wine made from a blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay.
Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger, president of Champagne Taittinger, said: “We believe we can produce a high-quality English sparkling wine drawing upon on our 80 years of winemaking expertise. Our aim is to make something of real excellence in the UK’s increasingly temperate climate, and not to compare it with champagne or any other sparkling wine.”
Taittinger said the chalky soil and south-facing slopes in Kent created the ideal terroir – soil, microclimate and topography – to plant and grow high-quality grapes for sparkling wine. The initial investment in the operation will be about six -million dollars.
As for other global regions:
When an Oregon valley famed for its wine heats up under the afternoon sun, Pacific Ocean winds rush through a dip in the mountains, cooling the grapes in Jeff Havlin’s vineyards.
The Van Duzer Corridor, the lowest point in Oregon’s Coast Range, has become a go-to place for wineries and vineyards hedging their bets against climate change. Winemakers and vineyard owners in a 95-square-mile section of the corridor have applied to become the newest American Viticultural Area, with the wind its predominant feature.
“When the temperature drops, you need a jacket in August,” said Havlin, who on a recent afternoon was driving a utility vehicle through his vineyards.
From South Africa’s drought-stricken vineyards, to France’s noble chateaus, to sunny vineyards in Australia and California, growers and winemakers say they are seeing the effects of climate change as temperatures rise, with swings in weather patterns becoming more severe.
So, they are taking action — moving to cooler zones, planting varieties that do better in the heat, and shading their grapes with more leaf canopy.
As areas once ideal for certain grapes become less viable, causing earlier harvests and diminished wine quality as grapes ripen faster, once-iffy sites like the Van Duzer Corridor are coming into their own.
Northern California’s Petaluma Gap, which like the Van Duzer Corridor sucks in ocean breezes, was designated one of America’s newest viticultural areas in December. Receiving an American Viticulture Area designation allows winemakers to emphasize the unique characteristics of their wine, determined by climate, geography, soil and other factors.
“Even though we have those heat waves just like Napa and Sonoma, we still have the cool breeze in the afternoon and the cooler temperatures at night and the fog in the morning,” said Ria D’Aversa, director of ranch operations at McEvoy Ranch, a Petaluma Gap vineyard.
The area’s slogan: “From wind to wine.”
Selsky writes for The Associated Press.
Join us Saturday August 25th for our Big August Walk Around Tasting: New World Order!
Featuring old varietals from New World regions, or New World Varietals from where you least expect them!
We will also be featuring an Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar tasting by the San Diego Olive Oil Company, with assorted flavors available to taste and take home!
3:30-5:30 pm
$35/per person or $30/club members
Purchase your tickets today!
2013 Mi Sueno Pinot Noir, Los Carneros
Growing Region: Tierra Bianca Vineyard, Los Carneros, Ca.
Varietal Composition: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: 10 Months in 25% New French Oak
Alcohol Content: 14.5%
Suggested Retail: $42.00
WineSellar Club Price: $35.99
Broad Strokes:
As I mentioned in our Mi Sueno Club Notes from May of 2014 I spent an afternoon at Mi Sueno Winery, tasting through their fabulous selections. I almost didn’t get out of there! The wines were stunning, and it was hard to have only two of the selections for The Gary Parker Collection.
This year, same deal, but I have settled on the 2013 Pinot Noir and the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon for us. I am sure you will love them both, and I am so impressed with the wines of Mi Sueno!
Appearance:
Good looking label and packaging overall. The Mi Sueno story is on the back and is a worthy read. It’s part of what makes this wine so special. The liquid itself is noticeably darker that the 2010 version we had before. The wine is thick and drips down the inside of the bowl very slowly.
Nose:
Deep, rich Maraschino Cherry, with some very stylish wood and smoke elements, a touch of autumn leaves ♫ (very pinot-like), fresh herbs, grilled meats and notes of mint/menthol. Still holding back after 30 minutes in the glass.
Texture:
It is so rich, it seems unlike Pinot Noir, which of course is known for its delicate and subtle feel in the mouth. Rich and powerful, milky and creamy, it is still somewhat aggressive, charging Pinot that has a slightly drying, cranberry acid finish.
Flavors:
It starts off with the Maraschino Cherry flavors, but quickly morphs into very deep fruit flavors, wrapped by vanilla oak, spice, forest floor, natural herbs, mahogany, black and white pepper, and that exotic nuance of smoke. Long, thoughtful finish is memorable.
Serving Suggestions:
I had the last of my 2010 Pinot Noir last week, and it was still going strong. I wish I could have resisted it for another few years. This one will last even longer, so says myself as well as the winery. Put it in your cellar until 2022, and then begin drinking on every year after that.
2013 Mi Sueno Cabernet Sauvignon
Growing Region: Napa Valley, California
Varietal Composition: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation: 24 Months in 55% New French Oak, 12 months in the bottle
Alcohol Content: 14.5%
Suggested Retail: $74.99
WineSellar Club Price: $62.99
Broad Strokes:
As I mentioned in our Mi Sueno Club Notes from May of 2014 I spent an afternoon at Mi Sueno Winery, tasting through their fabulous selections. I almost didn’t get out of there! The wines were stunning, and it was hard to have only two of the selections for The Gary Parker Collection.
This year, same deal, but I have settled on the 2013 Pinot Noir and the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon for us. I am sure you will love them both, and I am so impressed with the wines of Mi Sueno!
Appearance:
Good looking label and packaging overall. The Mi Sueno story is on the back and is a worthy read. It’s part of what makes this wine so special. The wine is very dark, nearly black, and it is also quite thick and extracted. Looks very pretty!
Nose:
Black fruits, coffee and chocolate start us off, with hints of fig jam, coca-cola and raspberry. As it opens up, it rounds out further, exposing vanilla, caramel, nutmeg, with black and white pepper. It’s kind of a mix of fresh fruits and a savory character.
Texture:
Super-well balanced, it feels decadent, luscious, and creamy in the mouth. It is seamless, big, but not overblown. Along with the middle, the finish resolves perfectly clean on the palate.
Flavors:
As a kid, my parents took me to Knott’s Berry Farm. I had my first taste of a great boysenberry jam. This wine reminds me of that taste, without being jam-like in texture. Aside from that, a lot of interesting and thought-provoking flavors: cherry, cola, plum, Indian spices, nutmeg, a hint of balsamic, and rosemary.
Serving Suggestions:
I had the last of my 2010 a month ago and it was still going strong. Fortunately, I have another five or six bottles left, and I will keep those for another 10 years. Should be incredible. To have alongside this 2013!
2015 La Ferme du Mont Première Côte Côtes du Rhône
Growing Region: Côte Côtes du Rhône, France
Varietal Composition: 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre
Fermentation: 10 Months in Oak
Alcohol Content: 14.5%
Suggested Retail: $24.00
WineSellar Club Price: $19.79
Broad Strokes:
Critical Acclaim: 90 Points Robert Parker
“If you haven’t figured it out yet, Stephane Vedeau’s La Ferme du Mont is one of the up and coming superstars of the Southern Rhône. Moreover, don’t miss his Côtes du Rhône releases".
I hadn’t figured it out either, until I tasted this gem and decided our WineSellar & Two-Rouge Club Members would go gaga over this. It’s a classic, wonderful representation of wine from the region, with modern touches that don’t step over the traditional, distinctive characteristics I love.
Appearance:
It has a great, clean and classic label, easily read and to the point. I LOVE the embossing on the bottle, so Rhône-ish! The wine has a medium hue of plum skin, with some gray, going to a rose petal color on the rim.
Nose:
This has the typical, authentic, and lovely nose of a Côtes du Rhône: cherry liqueur, scorched earth, fresh herbs, hot stones, with a hint of smoke, toasted hazelnuts, strawberry and black pepper.
Texture:
Todays Côtes du Rhône wines are more extracted and richer than those of yester-decade. At over 14% alcohol, the fruit and the richness are forward and lovely. Good, solid backbone is a perfect way to finish off this medium-bodied beauty. Also, note the grainy type of fruit feel in the palate.
Flavors:
Roasted meats, red round fruits, with a touch of balsamic, lead pencil and earthiness. Hot stones, fresh herbs, toasted skin of nuts. Strawberry, cherry, everything from the nose is in the palate as well.
Serving Suggestions:
The wine will age three to five years, however it is drinking really well at this point. Killer with this month’s recipe, as well as many other French inspired dishes, to include roast duck, escargot and rack of lamb.
2013 Petite Sirah, Pomar Junction, Estate Vineyard
Growing Region: Paso Robles – El Pomar District
Varietal Composition:100% Petite Sirah
Fermentation: 25 Months in 25% New French OakAlcohol Content: 14.3%
Suggested Retail: $40.00
WineSellar Club Price: $31.49
Broad Strokes:
The Merrill Family’s agricultural heritage and grape growing history dates back at least 8 generations on California’s central coast. After nearly 30 years of growing grapes for many of the finest wineries in California, ranging from ultra-premium small producers to the largest international brands, the Merrill’s decided to produce their own wines. In addition to the family estate, the finest blocks of grapes from Santa Barbara and Monterey Counties are selected from vineyards managed by a sister firm, Mesa Vineyard Management, Inc.
Appearance:
This is quite different from the Sidetrack White bottling in the WineSellar Club this month. This label is depicting their ties to the railroad junction, looking a bit more down to earth, dark and homey-like package. The wine is very dark, in fact, opaque at the core, and the wine drips very slowly down the glass.
Nose:
I really enjoyed the fruit-copia of blackberry, black and red fruits, raspberry and an intense blueberry component. It sort of reminded me of an ice cream sundae, save for a note of rhubarb.
Texture:
You get big bright fruits with a fabulous dunking of a powerful base that feels dense in your mouth: not overripe or overblown, just solid and extracted. It has a pleasant feel in your mouth. You know you are drinking something ripe and luscious, with layers of velvety tannins that float you into dreamland.
Flavors:
The flavors are not shy, coming out with big berry fruit, blackberry, and raspberry, with the firm blueberry noes as well. I also got sweet vanilla oak, cinnamon, exotic spices, black pepper and compote.
Serving Suggestions:
This wine will go another 5-10 years and will undoubtedly gain complexity with cellaring. For todays purposes, enjoy with smoked meats and hard cheeses.
2017 Sidetrack White, Pomar Junction
Growing Region: Paso Robles – El Pomar District
Varietal Composition: 50% Viognier, 35% Rousanne, 15% Grenache Blanc
Fermentation: 5 Months 10% New Acacia, 90% French Oak
Alcohol Content: 14.2%
Suggested Retail: $24.00
WineSellar Club Price: $19.79
Broad Strokes:
The Merrill Family’s agricultural heritage and grape growing history dates back at least 8 generations on California’s central coast. After nearly 30 years of growing grapes for many of the finest wineries in California, ranging from ultra-premium small producers to the largest international brands, the Merrill’s decided to produce their own wines. In addition to the family estate, the finest blocks of grapes from Santa Barbara and Monterey Counties are selected from vineyards managed by a sister firm, Mesa Vineyard Management, Inc.
Appearance:
It has a very creative and (I think) a very eye-catching, attractive package. No paper label, just applied letters and design features in white and gold that are striking. The wine is clear and clean-looking, softly hued in straw. If you are looking for a vintage, you won’t find it. The owners said the printer blew it, and for them to go back and run them the 888 cases through again would be costly and time consuming. So there you go, no vintage designation on this one.
Nose:
Ripe white tree fruit pops up from the glass. You’ll get the descriptors they supply on the back label, which are white peach, spiced pear, orange blossom and tropical notes. I also experienced pineapple and ripe citrus elements of orange, and tangerine.
Texture:
It has a bright and refreshing feel to it, but it also feels very sturdy and serious. The ripe fruit is balanced by a crisp acid finish. It is a wine that has elegance and class well beyond the price tag.
Flavors:
Another palate to nose job, everything translates . . . white peach, ripe citrus, pineapple, tropical notes, orange blossom and spiced pear.
Serving Suggestions:
With or without food, this wine is uniquely interesting, a wine to share with your know-it-all wine buddies.
NV Champagne Tendil & Lombardi, Blanc de Noir
Growing Region: The Aube
Varietal Composition: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: 28 years on Tirage
Dosage: 8 g/l
Alcohol Content: 12%
Suggested Retail: $39.99
WineSellar Club Price: $35.99
Broad Strokes:
91 Points, Wine Enthusiast
From the Winery:
Laurent Tendil and Stephane Lombardi, both born in Lyon, France, became friends asteenagers. Laurent was busy with Judo and Stephane with Rugby, but they found their common ground in French Gastronomy, and fine wine, especially Champagne. They had dreams to someday create their own Champagne together, and finally after 15 years within their own successful careers they left them to follow their dream. Finally, in May of 2011 the first bottles of Tendil &Lombardi were released, and a beautiful friends’ dream realized.
Appearance:
Light golden in hue with fine bubbles
Nose:
Delicate nose, rose petals, dough, toast, and oats. There is also a wonderful spice element;cinnamon and nutmeg on baked apples.
Texture:
This wine pleases with a light and clean palate. Very fine solid beads. The texture is fruit densewithout being weighty. Mouth-watering.
Flavors:
Orchard fruits; baked apples, apple skin, pears, and citrus fruit; blood oranges. Red fruits;currants and cranberries.
Serving Suggestions:
As fall is almost upon us, this would be lovely with a roast pork loan with caramelized onions and baked apples!
NV Champagne Devaux, “D” Rose
Growing Region: Cote de Bar (within The Aube)
Varietal Composition: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
Fermentation: 5 years on Tirage
Dosage: 8 g/l
Alcohol Content: 12%
Suggested Retail: $79.99
WineSellar Club Price: $71.99
Broad Strokes:
93 Points, James Suckling
From the Winery:
Devaux has been part of the history of Champagne since the 19th century. It was founded in 1846 by brothers Jules and Auguste Devaux and was led by three inspiring women from the
family, whom all eventually were widowed. Currently Devaux practices sustainable vineyard management and hand labels special “Tete de Cuvee” bottles such as the “D” Rose Champagne.
Appearance:
A glistening rose gold, with an elegant mousse
Nose:
With 5 years on tirage, this complex Champagne welcomes you in with hazelnuts and sweet ripe raspberries, strawberries, red currants, and apricots.
Texture:
Intensely fruity on the palate and offers a refined finesse
Flavors:
A nuanced Champagne. Every sip brings new elements and flavors. Raspberries, red currants, and apricots. Exotic spice… cardamom, Tahitian vanilla …candied violets
Serving Suggestions:
With the abundance of apricot notes and the richness of this Champagne you can really push the envelope, and this would be gorgeous with a Tagine, perhaps with lamb, apricots, and
pistachios!
Braised Short Ribs Côtes du Rhône
This is one of my favorite recipes. Its kissing cousin is, of course, beef bourguignon, but this luxury version produces aromas that will drive you wild. Meaty short ribs replace stew meat. The ribs, along with some vegetables and herbs, soak for a day in a full bodied, deep crimson Côtes-du-Rhône, guaranteeing they'll be happily soused when they hit the saute pan. The ribs are browned in bacon drippings, then slowly braised at a temperature low enough to melt connective tissue while still allowing the beef to retain its shape and glorious texture. The other usual suspects associated with bourguignon - mushrooms and pearl onions - are assembled and tossed in the mix just before serving. Did I mention bacon? It's there, too. The braising liquid is reduced by half then used to nap the ribs, mushrooms and onions which are served atop a bed of noodles. Extra sauce is passed at the table.
Ingredients
- 1 bottle Côtes du Rhône or other full-bodied red wine
- 2 large carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
- 1 very large yellow onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
- 6 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
- 4 parsley sprigs
- 4 thyme sprigs
- 1 bay leaf
- 8 slices thick cut smoked bacon, diced
- 12 beef short ribs, trimmed
- Salt and pepper
- 2 cups beef stock
- 1 pound small mushroom caps
- 1/2 cup frozen pearl onions, thawed
- 1 tablespoon grainy mustard
- 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
- 16 ounces of pasta noodles
Method
- Place wine in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Remove from heat; add carrots, onions, garlic, parsley sprigs, thyme sprigs and bay leaf. Cool to room temperature.Place the short ribs in a shallow baking dish large enough to hold the ribs in a single layer. Pour the marinade over the ribs, cover and refrigerate for 24 hours.
- Fry the bacon in a large saute pan until lightly browned. Drain on paper towels. Set pan containing bacon dripping aside.
- Preheat oven to 300 degrees F. Remove ribs from marinade. Liberally season with salt and pepper and dredge all sides in flour. Heat skillet containing bacon drippings until almost smoking. Brown ribs, in two batches, until deep brown, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a large roasting pan. Pour marinade and beef stock into skillet and bring to a boil; add half the bacon. Pour over ribs. Cover pan with foil and bake for 3 hours. Transfer ribs to a baking sheet; top with mushrooms and onions. Return pan to oven but leave door ajar.
- Boil pasta, rinse, and set aside for serving.
- Strain braising liquid into a large saucepan. Boil juices until reduced by half. If too thin, dissolve cornstarch in a small amount of stock or water and add to sauce, stirring until thickened. Stir in mustard. Adjust salt and pepper to taste. Pour sauce over ribs and continue baking for 20 minutes longer. Warm bacon. Lift ribs and vegetables from sauce and place on a platter lines with hot noodles. Top with reserved bacon and chopped parsley. Pass extra sauce at table.
Yield: 6 servings.
(The Perfect Bite)