Wine Club Newsletter - December 2018
Bocanariz Restaurant, Santiago, Chile
In the Bohemian district of Lassater, this wine oriented restaurant is a smash hit with locals and tourists alike. It is considered one of the top ten restaurants in Santiago, even though there are no views and the trappings are somewhat underwhelming.
But the wine and food are focused on Chile, and the results on the table transcend any mediocre visual impressions. We dined three times in four days at Bocanariz (translates to mouth nose), as it was close to the apartment, and it well suited the craving for our initial discoveries into culinary Chile.
With hundreds of wine selections, wine flights, wine and food pairing menu’s, and well-executed dishes, it was a natural. The menu prices are moderate, not an overboard or extravagant anything, and the well-varied offerings can keep you coming for days without repeating a single item.
Unless you want too! We never did, and enjoyed the three course tasting menu with wine flights, fresh oysters, intriguing salads, ceviche, and deer tatake, which was out of this world. I had the deer tatake on the fateful third visit, which after all the wonderful things I had the joy of putting in my mouth, I left with a bad taste.
As busy as they are, they do not take reservations, unless under special circumstances. That is to say rarely. And they typically will not accommodate parties of six or more either. My guess is the service of wine flights and small plates gets burdensome with large parties, and the physical space is broken up into small rooms.
On day three, we arrived to a full house, and was told there would be a table for us in ten or fifteen minutes. We decided to wait (outside) and in a proper amount of time, we were escorted to a small table in the back portion of the restaurant, certainly not the best one in the house. We waited for our server to bring menus, which always seems to take awhile here.
When she handed us the menu, I noticed the only window table had been vacated. No one else was waiting for a table, so I asked our server if we could move there. She said yes, and since we hadn’t had any water or messed the napkins, we went over and sat down, smiling.
That is, until the hostess came over and told us we couldn’t sit there, it was for reservations only. Now I am a bit embarrassed, as there are five other established tables in our hood watching and listening. I knew the hostess was not telling the truth about the reservation thing, but I didn’t want to cause anymore a scene then was already taking place. I was thinking don’t be the “ugly American” tourist.
We retreated to the lowly back table as if we had been scolded and put in our place. I found myself becoming angry, not so much for what the hostess had done, but for me allowing it to happen. I should have called the manager over to discuss this, but got lost in the moment of initial embarrassment. How many times have we all said “I should have said . . . this!”
Upon finishing our lunch, I knew I couldn’t live with myself without talking to the manager. As we were leaving, I pulled him aside and described what happened. He assured me that, yes, the hostess was wrong and I should have been allowed to sit at the window. He thanked me for coming to him, and wanted to offer me something in return, which I refused. I told him I also owned a restaurant, and would want to be aware of any of my staff behaving poorly.
It really shows how being decent and well mannered can help the restaurant ... and the customer can get their point across as well. When done in this manner the customer will get immediate respect and service than if they act out on the server. One must keep in mind that the restaurant is trying to do it's best. You don't know what's going on behind the scenes. Behaving well and getting your point across nicely is a win-win. It also says ... speak up before you leave! That way we can take care of the situation now!
I write about this to share with you an experience I had in my own field, in the hopes you can relate to my event, and be aware that talking to a person in the hospitality industry about your concerns or disenchantments is helpful; especially when done with the proper tone and objectivity.
Celebrate New Years Eve in The Brasserie!
We will be opening for dinner service beginning at 5pm.
Celebrate early with us and be home in time for the ball drop!
The menu will be our Brasserie dinner menu with some festive additions including caviar, truffles and more!
Gary & Lori Parker have brought back a more generous understanding of Port, from their Portugal wine tour, and Champagne, from their Champagne wine tour and want to share some of their favorite celebration wines with you!
Your featured toasting options for the evening are:
NV Moet & Chandon, Brut Imperial, Champagne, France Taylor Fladgate, 20 Year Old Tawny, Port, Portugal
Reservations STRONGLY recommended as we sell out every year!
858-450-9577
2017 Chardonnay, Joey Tensley, Central Coast
Growing Region: Central Coast Region, California
Varietal Composition: 100% Chardonnay
Fermentation: Spontaneous Fermentation, Steel Tanks
Alcohol Content: 13.5%
Suggested Retail: $24.00
WineSellar Club Price: $19.79
Broad Strokes:
In 1998 Joey Tensley launched Tensley Wines with one hundred cases and one single goal – to start a well-priced, Syrah-driven brand that let the unique vineyards of Santa Barbara County speak for themselves. Today, Tensley is a 5,000 case-a-year business with Syrah’s that have made the Wine Spectator’s Top 100, scored 99 points with Robert Parker, and won Food and Wine Magazine’s award for the “Top Syrah in America over $20. Joey’s first experience with wine took place when he was just twelve-years-old and his soccer team toured a winery while taking part in a tournament in France. Joey vividly recalls the chill of the old caves and the aromas of wines fermenting in barrel. From that moment on he knew he wanted to be a winemaker. “Which pretty much made me the only kid in Bakersfield with that particular dream,” Joey says.
Appearance:
Good-looking package. The label is clean, easy to read, and to the point. Nice back label short story as well. The wine has a yellow/corn hue, with some gold-like metallic reflections.
Nose:
The nose is delicate at first, the wine needed to be open and warm up a bit. First notes of roasted nuts, then the well-defined Chardonnay fruit character poips up. Sweet, ripe impressions are balanced by mineral and acid components. Some lemon, light touch of wood, crème brûlée.
Texture:
The weight in the mouth has a medium to medium full feel. The weight does not convey to heavy fruit feel, thankfully, and the wine is most agreeable in the palate.
Flavors:
Excellent varietal impression of Chardonnay fruit on the palate. Toasted sesame seed, lime and lemon, caramel and some enticing vanilla oak. Look for butter, coconut, crème brûlée, with peaches and apricots as the wine comes to temperature.
Serving Suggestions:
Mouth-watering and delicious, and absolute steal under $20. So say Gary & Robert Parker. Great on its own, but also excels with food.
2015 Chateau Roc de Becot, Puisseguin-St. Emilion
Growing Region: Pusseguin-St. Emilion, Bordeaux, France
Varietal Composition: 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc
Fermentation: French Oak
Alcohol Content: 14.5%
Suggested Retail: $24.00
WineSellar Club Price: $20.69
Broad Strokes:
From the Chateau: By a nice stroke of luck, Caroline and Pierre Bécot bought this fine property in the Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion appellation. Their wish was to remain in the Saint-Emilion region, where their family and their father Dominique, co-owner of 1er Grand Cru Classé Beau-Séjour Bécot, had been settled for a long time.
Located on the plateau of Puisseguin, the terroir is among the appellation’s finest: clay-limestone soils planted almost exclusively with Merlot. The wine is crafted with finite care, in the ultimate goal of creating a true jewel of this appellation. Château Roc de Bécot is a silky-smooth wine of great elegance, laden with delicious fruit and impressively long on the finish.
Appearance:
It has a good-looking label, clearly with Bordeaux impressions. Looks a little like the Mouton-Baronne-Philippe label, with the gold embossing, and it has a cut label. Appears like they paid good money for their image and perception of the product. The wine is dark garnet in color, with youthful purple/dark bubbles.
Nose:
Cassis, fresh plum, black and blueberries, fresh dough, crust of bread, nice touch of cedar wood and fruit sweetness. Delicate bit intoxicating aromatics, that deserve a bit of time and focus to appreciate to the fullest.
Texture:
Plush and lush, this is a new-world style Bordeaux. That means deeper fruit extraction and bigger mouth-feel, yet it still maintains that classic Bordeaux silken, velvety, smooth, even and delightful texture.
Flavors:
Plummy fruit, ripe black cherry, black fruits, cedar, toasted hazelnuts and peanuts, and some charcoal and smoke. Totally lovely wine drinking experience!
Serving Suggestions:
Given the light tannins forging a drying finish, the wine is great with food, and has a few years of like ahead of it. This is just a great wine to have at your holiday parties, and to share with your loved ones.
2013 Collier Falls Cabernet Sauvignon, Hillside Estate
Growing Region: Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, California
Varietal Composition: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation: 19 Months French & American, 33% New
Alcohol Content: 14.2%
Suggested Retail: $45.00
WineSellar Club Price: $40.49
Broad Strokes:
90 points Robert Parker. Gold Medal San Francisco International Wine Competition
Winery Says: Collier Falls is a family-owned vineyard and winery in Healdsburg, California’s beautiful Dry Creek Valley. We make limited quantities of hillside estate red wines from 20 acres of our own sustainably-farmed vineyards. Each year we strive to grow outstanding fruit and make world-class wines here in Sonoma County. We hope the wines of Collier Falls express the true flavors of the grapes, and are exceptional examples from this wonderful winegrowing region. Our name comes from the waterfall below our Zinfandel vineyards, and our wines are found in the restaurants of legendary chefs like Gordon Ramsay, Wolfgang Puck, Emeril Lagasse, Charlie Palmer, and Thomas Keller.
Appearance:
Solid looking bottle, with good weight, shoulders, and a deep punt. I wish the image of the Collier Falls was more resolute, or even in abstract. Another informative back label story, I love these things. The wine is nearly black at the core, resolving to deep garnet at the edge.
Nose:
The winery calls out black cherry, tobacco and cedar box on the nose. Agreed, and it is LOVELY! I also got a touch of pine nuts, fresh herbs, soy and balsamic. Add dark berry compote to that classy and sophisticated whiff.
Texture:
It has a smooth entry with medium full weight and body. It is seamless, as everything melds texturally for a grade “A” by me. Engaging, silky/velvet feel in the middle palate, which resolves to the gentle but present closing acid. It has a very long finish.
Flavors:
The winery calls for notes of earth, blackberry and Christmas spices. Again, I agree. There are faint wood notes present, but not overbearing, just well-integrated. Notice how long the wine is present in the palate after you swallow. Here, I noticed red licorice, deep plum, dairy cream, clove and cinnamon.
Serving Suggestions:
I keep going back to the clove and cinnamon, and think of the approaching holidays. Only 330 cases produced. All the best to you and your loved wines! 8-15 years to age.
2015 Cima Collina Petite Verdot, Argyle Vineyard
Growing Region: Dry Monterey County, California
Varietal Composition: 100% Petite Verdot
Fermentation: Neutral Oak Barrels
Alcohol Content: 14.2%
Suggested Retail: $38.00
WineSellar Club Price: $32.39
Broad Strokes:
Winery Says: One of the most aromatic Petit Verdots I think I’ve ever smelled: violets, leather, baking spices -- really lovely stuff. The artisan approach Cima Collina applies in the vineyard also translates to the cellar. Winemaker Annette Hoff and her cellar crew use as little automation in the winemaking process as possible. Grapes are hand-sorted as they come into the winery, all red fermentations are punched-down by hand, and white wines are barrel fermented in very cool temperatures to ensure delicacy and complexity. Cima Collina’s small production enables Annette to become familiar with each barrel and, as a result, create blends barrel-by-barrel so that each wine develops its own distinct, complex personality.
Appearance:
An attractive package, to be sure. However, it is very hard to read the label. The font for “Cima Collina” is not an easy read, and the other printed words seemingly hide from us. Good news, you can reeqd the nicely spoken back label. The wine is opaque, with an eek of bright crimson on the edge.
Nose:
The winery says: “One of the most aromatic Petit Verdots I think I’ve ever smelled: violets, leather, baking spices -- really lovely stuff.” Plus roasted walnuts, spice and nutmeg. Dark red and black fruits are very ripe, but edged in by the firm acid. Some baked bread also.
Texture:
Smooth, elegant, well-rounded, and full in the mouth. It has a vertical structure, meaning the acid does not let the fruit run out of control. Feels lean and rich at the same time. The solid, biting finish begs for red meats.
Flavors:
Violets, blueberry, black fruits, spicy vanilla oak, and a touch of fresh herbs. Check for bright cherry fruit, cherry skin, black and white pepper. The wine continues to develop further complexities as it is open for hours.
Serving Suggestions:
Even though I mentioned great with red meats, this wine is versatile enough to enjoy with all kinds of foods. Cheeses, pastas, roasted duck, and rich sauces as well. 5-10 years to go.
2012 Champagne Pierre Gimmonet, Special Club
Growing Region: Cotes de Blancs; 60% Cramant Grand Cru, 30% Chouilly Grand Cru, 10% Cuis Premier Cru
Varietal Composition: 100% Chardonnay
Vinification: Stainless steel fermentation, 60 months en tirage (left on the lees)
Dosage: 8 g/l
Alcohol Content: 12.5%
Suggested Retail: $125
WineSellar Club Price: $110
93 points Wine & Spirits
93 points Antonio Galloni
92 points Wine Spectator
This edition of your Sparkling Champagne Club is extremely special, and perfect for the Holiday Season! There will be one bottle, but this one bottle is quite rare and unique! It is available in such small quantities it will only be available to the Sparkling Champagne Club members!
The Special Club ( also known as Club Tresors ) was started in 1971 and is currently a group of 28 grower / producers in the Champagne region. The group’s purpose is to promote terrior in Champagne production. To become a member, a producer must grow their own grapes and be designated as a RM's (Recoltant-Manipulant). They all use the same style bottle but have individual labels. These wines represent the top offerings from each producer. The wines must go through a tasting by club members before it can be approved as a Special Club. After initial approval, the wine then undergoes a second fermentation and 3 more years of aging before a final round of tasting by members for approval and bottling. Special Clubs are always vintage wines but are not put out every year.
From the Winery:
2012 was a challenging vintage seeing frost and hail reducing crops in some villages by as much as 40%. However, the grapes that were harvested showed wonderful concentration with balanced levels of acidity. This is truly a masterpiece in the making!
Appearance:
Light lemon with a lovely shimmer
Nose:
Tropical aromatics, orange peel and flowers such as chamomile and jasmine as well as a hint of pastry dough.
Texture:
The bead is refined and elegant
Flavors:
An ornate and complex wine. It changes with each approach; citrus blossoms, orange rind, a hint of thyme and earthy notes of chalk and flint
Serving Suggestions:
This wine is gorgeous now but was built to age. It has the potential for a slumber in your cellar for up to 20 years! If enjoying this holiday season or anytime soon pairing it with Linguine and Clams in a White Wine and Butter Sauce would be divine!
Salad Greens with Sweet Pea “Hummus”, Scallion Vinaigrette
Part of the wine tour we conducted in Chile last month included a cooking demonstration at the “Food & Wine Studio” of Pilar Rodriguez.
Pilar attended the prestigious school of Culinary Arts Le Cordon Bleu in Paris. After completing her studies, she worked with the prominent French chef Christian Le Squer at the restaurant Ledoyen, which is awarded three Michelin stars.
This is one of the items we made for lunch, which I loved and want to share.
Scallion Dressing Ingredients:
- 1 cup green scallions
- 3 cups whole parsley leaves
- 1 cup of olive oil
- ½ cup of lemon juice (to taste)
- Salt & pepper to taste
Scallion Dressing Method:
- Process all the ingredients in a blender to get a soft mixture
- Strain the mixture, using the green oil for the dressing.
- Save the pulp for another dish as you please. A great topping for salmon, avocado, etc.
Sweet Pea “Hummus” Ingredients:
- 2 cups of sweet peas, lightly cooked (Frozen is OK)
- 4 mint leaves
- Juice of one lemon
- ½ clove of garlic
Sweet Pea “Hummus” Method:
- Process all the ingredients in a blender to get a smooth, spreadable blend
- Set aside
To Serve:
- Spread the “humus” over a flat plate.
- In a separate bowl, add your mixed greens and drizzle the scallion dressing on top
- Toss the salad
- Spread dressed greens over the “hummus” and serve immediately
This is it, partially consumed.