Wine Club Newsletter - October 2019
High Tech Wine Bottle Fights Fraud
New anti-counterfeiting tech from one of Burgundy’s most acclaimed winemakers.
Even before one of history’s most sensational wine-fraud cases emerged, Laurent Ponsot, then the winemaker at Burgundy- based Domaine Ponsot, knew that charlatans lurked at the fringes of his beloved industry. When he first spotted a phony bottle in 1995, he recalls, “I started to think about what to do about it.”
And then came Rudy Kurniawan, a youthful upstart wine dealer purporting to possess the world’s greatest cellar and selling tens of millions of dollars’ worth of fine wines at auction—only to be exposed in 2012 as a massive counterfeiter. It was Ponsot who helped the FBI investigate and eventually catch him. (In one memorable instance, an auction was interrupted to pull the Ponsot wines that were up for sale—they had, in fact, never been made by his family.)
The affaire de Kurniawan fueled Ponsot’s efforts to create safeguards, knowing that for any collectible commodity, the most important ingredient is authenticity. Working with eProvenance and Selinko, two technology start-ups, at his new entity Laurent Ponsot (founded in 2017), Ponsot has created a system that deploys five unique safeguards.
First comes the bottle itself, made from a mold that exists only at Ponsot’s new Burgundy-based operation, which debuted its wines last fall. The second component is the label, which contains a temperature sensor, as well as a secret, proprietary technology that enables its verification. There is a polymer closure in place of a traditional cork that’s made in one factory on the planet, Ponsot says, along with a tamper-proof chip that can be scanned and read with a near field communication smartphone or similar device.
The chip reveals whether the bottle has been opened, creating what Ponsot calls an “anti-refilling” system. Finally, there are six chips embedded within each shipment of grand cru wine that monitor the wine’s storage and temperature, creating what start-up partner eProvenance refers to as “intelligent cases.”
The system is now available to winemakers everywhere through eProvenance and Selinko, as well as through the company ArdeaSeal (to whom Ponsot sold the patents of the closures.) How foolproof is it? An ambitious counterfeiter could theoretically duplicate this technology, but the cost would almost certainly be too prohibitive, Ponsot says. “Nothing is impossible on earth, especially with the technology of today,” he says. “But we make it very difficult on the fakers.”
Anti-Fraud Tech, Explained (see image)
- Hot or Not - A non-reversible sensor turns black if the bottle has been exposed to too high a temperature
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Instant Authentication - A microchip lets you confirm the wine’s authenticity using a free app from Selinko on a smartphone or tablet equipped with near field communication. Not sure if your device has NFC? Visit nfcworld.com to find out.
Here we are in Sicily with our wine tour group. Would you like to join us for some fun, fine wine, food and culture? Next trip is to either Rhone Valley France, or Greece. Email Lori Parker for more info at Lparker@WineSellar.us
2017 Monte Tondo, Soave Classico. DOC
Growing Region: Veneto, Italy
Varietal Composition: Garganega, Trebbiano, Chardonnay Fermentation: Stainless Steel
Alcohol Content: 14.2%
Suggested Retail: $22.00
WineSellar Club Price: $18.99
Broad Strokes: 92 Points
The Monte Tondo vineyard can be found nestling in the gentle hills of Soave just a few kilometers from Verona on a slope overlooking the valley. Today it is 4th generation brother and sister team, Luca and Marta Magnabosco, who tend to the 25 hectares of vineyards situated on the best plots that the Soave zone can offer.
“Cutting edge producers Gino Magnabosco and his daughter, Marta, are doing amazing things with the Garganega grape. This Soave is nothing short of amazing. Fruit hails from their estate grown vineyards in the best areas of the Soave region.” 92 Points, James Suckling
Appearance:
Pretty, tall, brown bottle contrasts nicely with the off white label and matching brown font work. Also like the muted outline of the Monte Tondo Estate, and info on the back label. All pluses there. Wine is brilliant looking, with highlights of yellow and green hues.
Nose:
The aromatics have citrus overtones, including Meyer lemon, lime, orange and tangerine. You may also detect roasted nuts, some tropical fruits, herbs, and a good whiff of mineral and resinous acid. It keeps your nose going back in for more.
Texture:
Youthfully bracing acids greet the first feel on the mouth, followed quickly by a dense fruit that counters the acid. It is very concentrated without “being “in your face”, and leaves you feeling the luscious depth of the wine. The finish is long, with both the fruit and the acids lingering for quite some time.
Flavors:
The citrus hits you first taste, lime and lemon, with the mineral and even a touch of chalk. Then the fruit comes in, pear, ripe melon, and a touch of honey. To contrast the acidity, a touch of creaminess in the center brings out honeydew melon and cantaloupe notes, outlined by a touch of herbs.
Serving Suggestions:
I loved this with hard cheeses, apples and roasted nuts as an aperitif, and also had it with a composed salad with citrus and goat cheese.
2014 Terreni Sparsi, Monferrato Rosso, Cascina Liuzzi
Growing Region: Monferrato, Piedmont, Italy
Varietal Composition: 45% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Albarossa (Nebbiolo x Barbera)
Fermentation: 8 Months in Oak
Alcohol Content: 14%
Suggested Retail: $22.00
WineSellar Club Price: $17.91
Broad Strokes:
From the Estate: Our passion began in 2000 when our father and mother decided to purchase this farmhouse in the middle of the vineyards. Since the beginning, we have cared for our vineyards, loving being so close to nature. Over the years we decided to start our own business and to produce the best wines with the best grapes of the vineyards. This is how we started this new adventure in 2011.
From a picturesque vineyard located 350 meters above sea level, the Liuzzi family's "Terreni Sparsi" combines Albarossa with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The results are pretty darn impressive, enough to warrant a 90 points rating!
Appearance:
Like its cousin “Sil” from Barbera, the package is artistic, distinct, and delivers a solid message. I really like how the name Terreni Sparsi dominates the label, and the red cap is a thoughtful gesture as well. The wine is black at the core, and it barely gets to a solid red on the edge. Shows a hint of bottle age with the color.
Nose:
The nose is of red fruits, black fruits, and touches of earth and cigar box. It has a fresh scent, yet it is from 2014, amazing! Notice fresh herbs, and a hint of anise, along with notes of wood barrel with black and white pepper. Perfume, violets/rose petals.
Texture:
Medium plus in weight and body, it has zesty acid on the forefront of the palate, most likely from the Albarossa grapes. The surprising weight and density of the wine comes from the Cabernet
Sauvignon and the Merlot. Nice, even, lingering, crispy acid finish.
Flavors:
A very appealing wine upon first entry, the red and black fruits are bright and engaging. Notice the white and black pepper, along with the wood barrel notes . . . not vanilla oak, just nice wood
elements. There is some earthiness, like dark soil, fresh herbs and mushrooms. Kind of a big boy bruiser from Italy. The finish is clean and lovely.
Serving Suggestions:
This is great with food, especially Italian food. Really shines with Gnocchi with Roquefort sauce.
2016 Il Fauno, Tenuta di Arceno IGT
Growing Region: Tuscany, Italy
Varietal Composition: 51% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Franc, 17% Cab Sauvignon, 1% Petit Verdot
Fermentation: 12 Months French Oak Fermentation
Alcohol Content: 14.5%
Suggested Retail: $36.00
WineSellar Club Price: $29.69
Broad Strokes: 92-94 Points ratings over last five vintages of this wine.
A gorgeous property in Chianti Classico's Castelnuovo Berardenga owned by Jackson Family Estates, viticulturist and winemaker Pierre Seillan (also of Verité in Sonoma) works his magic here.
When wine entrepreneur Jess Jackson and Vigneron Pierre Seillan first visited Tenuta di Arceno in 1994, they immediately recognized the potential of this historic estate. Over the next two decades, our team replanted the vineyards into tiny micro-crus, updated the winery and elevated the viticulture and winemaking practices to first-class standards. Today, Tenuta di Arceno is widely considered one of the premier estates in the Chianti Classico region
Appearance:
With a label that is essentially identical to the high-end wine of the Estate, I think the overall look and message of the packaging speaks to high quality. A heavy bottle is not overly weighty, but you recognize it is a serious wine. The wine is nearly opaque, with some very dark red edges.
Nose:
The aromatics are slightly muted for about 10 minutes, and then open to dark berry fruit, plum, oak and wood notes, a bit of earth and spice as well. You can tell by how the nose keeps developing over a large amount of time this wine has a long way to go in the cellar.
Texture:
Full-bodied, rich, ripe, yet slightly mouth puckering with tannins that grip and hold for an hour in the glass. I had some the next day and it was still a bit firm but ultimately yielding. We could call it tightly wound, with excellent potential!
Flavors:
Plum, blackberry and raspberry fruits are sidecar to exotic wood influences, with hints of violets and anise. The wine drinks well beyond its price point, as it is a complex, balanced, and well-made wine from a great property.
Serving Suggestions:
Try it now, then buy 6 bottles and put it down for ten years, you will be greatly rewarded.
2013 “Sil”, Barbera d’Asti Superiore Nizza DOCG “Cascina Liuzzi”
Growing Region: Barbera d’Asti, Piedmont, Italy
Varietal Composition: 100% Barbera
Fermentation: 8 Months in Oak
Alcohol Content: 14.5%
Suggested Retail: $26.00
WineSellar Club Price: $22.49
Broad Strokes:
From the Estate: Our passion began in 2000 when our father and mother decided to purchase this farmhouse in the middle of the vineyards. Since the beginning, we have cared for our vineyards, loving being so close to nature. Over the years we decided to start our own business and to produce the best wines with the best grapes of the vineyards. This is how we started this new adventure in 2011.
The Barbera d’Asti Superiore Nizza has the mention “Nizza” because, from 2000, it is possible to add the name of the subregion where the Barbera d’Asti has been produced. The vineyard has indeed the perfect location and exposure to give the best of this kind of Barbera.
Appearance:
A very cool looking package, it is artistic, distinct, and delivers a solid message. The wine reflects light very well off its dark cherry skin hue coloring. It still looks younger than its age. Dark at the center, almost black, and bleeds to solid magenta at the rim.
Nose:
The aromatics are still quite youthful for a wine that is 6 years of age. Cherry fruit, some dried cherries as well. Vanilla, chocolate and red fruit notes, strawberry jam, with a touch of mushroom, forest floor and tobacco.
Texture:
Medium full in weight and body, it has a wonderful, clean, smooth feel to it, albeit holding on to a bit of a rustic Italian cowboy. Lush and engaging, it seems to go down quite easily, as it seems to just get smoother the more you drink. Imagine that!
Flavors:
Vanilla, cherry, black fruits, mint, spice, prunes, chocolate, and leather saddle are some of the adjectives I wrote down through the process of enjoying the wine. The strawberry jam from the nose was in there, as well as white pepper, mushroom, roasted beef, flower petals and the earth notes of dark soil.
Serving Suggestions:
So great this is with food, especially Italian food. Really shines with pasta Bolognese!
2013 Arcanum IGT, Tenuta di Arcena
Growing Region: Tuscany, Italy
Varietal Composition: 73% Cabernet Franc. 17% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation: 12 Months 80% New French Oak
Alcohol Content: 14.5%
Suggested Retail: $100.00
WineSellar Club Price: $89.09
I will be deviating a bit from our normal format to offer you the great review on this wine, as well as other pertinent information. In short, I have collected this wine in the past, and it is still going strong after 10 years from the vintage. Deep, dark, dense and delicious, a total winner for us! Gary . . .
96+ Points Robert Parker “The 2013 Arcanum is a blend of 73% Cabernet Franc with smaller parts Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The Cabernet Franc element is obviously strongest, and you get steely notes of black fruit followed by wild sage and rosemary oil. This is a powerful and thickly layered red wine that pushes the boundaries of extract and intensity, especially for a Tuscan red wine. Off the top of my head, I can count maybe ten wines from the region that take on such a full-bodied and opulent approach. This wine should age forward for many years to come.”
A gorgeous property in Chianti Classico's Castelnuovo Berardenga owned by Jackson Family Estates, viticulturist and winemaker Pierre Seillan (also of Verité in Sonoma) works his magic here.
When wine entrepreneur Jess Jackson and Vigneron Pierre Seillan first visited Tenuta di Arceno in 1994, they immediately recognized the potential of this historic estate. Over the next two decades, our team replanted the vineyards into tiny micro-crus, updated the winery and elevated the viticulture and winemaking practices to first-class standards. Today, Tenuta di Arceno is widely considered one of the premier estates in the Chianti Classico region
Arcanum hails from the commune of Castelnuovo Berardenga, located in the province of Siena, Tuscany. Bordered by the ancient walled town of San Gusmè, the estate’s roots can be traced to the pre-Roman Etruscan civilization. Arcanum specializes in Cabernet Franc and Bordeaux-style blends, with each of the three wines expressing a different aspect of the estate’s personality.
2013 Arcanum
Arcanum is the pinnacle of the estate’s offerings. Based on Cabernet Franc, the true signature of the estate, this remarkable wine is built to age yet is drinkable young, offering aromas of violets, roses and raspberries, with long and delicate spice notes; it is a wine that is seductive yet subtle. Arcanum is sourced primarily from the L’Apparita and Belvedere blocks of Cabernet Franc. With superb exposure and sandy clay soils, each year these blocks shine to produce the finest expression of the variety, and the leading wine of the estate.
2009 Ca’ del Bosco, Annamaria Clementi, Brut, Franciacorta, Lomabardy, Itlay
Growing Region: Franciacorta, Lombardy, Italy
Varietal Composition (Cepage) : 55% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Bianco (Pinot Blanc), 20% Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir)
Vinification (From the winery):
“Cuvee Annamaria Clementi is the product of an unremitting quest for excellence in the vineyards as well as the cellar. In line with the Ca’del Bosco Method, the grapes are hand-picked and placed in small crates on which a code is immediately stamped, just before they are cold-stored. Each bunch is selected by expert eyes and hands, and then goes through our exclusive “berry spa”, a special whirlpool-like wash for grape bunches, consisting of three soaking tanks, followed by thorough drying. The base wines are obtained exclusively from free-run juice. Alcoholic fermentation takes place only in small oak casks, made of selected wood seasoned for a minimum of 3 years. There, the wine remains on its own lees for six more months, during which malolactic fermentation takes place. No compromises, no concessions are acceptable: only wine from the best barrels of the best 26 best base wines is drawn off to go into Cuvee Annamaria Clementi. A pair of flying tanks transfers the wine by gravity flow from the barrels to the blending tank. Unhurried lees contact continues for more than seven years to shape the wine’s unique sensory profile. An absolute Franciacorta. Disgorgement takes place in the absence of oxygen using a unique system designed and patented by Ca’del Bosco. The procedure avoids oxidative stress and the need for additional sulfites, make Ca’del Bosco Franciacortas purer, more appealing and longer lived. Finally, every bottle is marked individually to ensure its traceability.”
Dosage: 0 g/l
Alcohol Content: 12.7%
Suggested Retail: $104.99
WineSellar Club Price: $94.50
93 pts Wine Enthusiast
From the Winery:
“Absolute. In other words, no limits, a constantly evolving value. Like the exclusive commitment needed to make this Franciacorta dedicated to Annamaria Clementi, founder of Ca’del Bosco. Only the finest grapes from the various crus are earmarked for this iconic wine. It is only made in the finest years.”
Appearance:
Magnificently golden in hue
Nose:
Brioche, walnuts, orange zest, ripe yellow stone fruit, pears, golden apples and chestnut honey
Texture:
Ultra-fine perlage. Creamy on the palate.
Flavors:
Yellow apple, citrus zest, pears, golden & crisp apples, crushed herbs and bitter almonds
Serving Suggestions:
Risotto is a staple dish in Franciacorta. Pair the 2009 AnnaMaria with a Pear and Crisped Speck Risotto! Perfect for fall and heading into cooler weather!
What is Franciacorta?
One of the first regions in Italy to get the D.O.C. (Denomination of Origin Controlled) status in 1967. In 1995 Franciacorta was given D.O.C.G (Denomination of Origin Controlled Guaranteed) status. Franciacorta is in northern Italy in the Province of Brescia (Lombardy). Permitted grapes are Chardonnay, Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) and Pinot Bianco (Pinot Blanc). With about 85% of it dedicated to Chardonnay.
Why Franciacorta? Why Ca’del Bosco?
With the Sparkling Champagne Club our goal is to offer you the most unique, delicious and exciting Champagnes and sparkling wines we can find! Franciacorta has long been a favorite of ours at The WineSellar & Brasserie, but they are often hard to find!
Our offering this month from Ca’del Bosco is exceptionally exciting as we chased down the last of it available in California! As you will see from the notes, they are extremely meticulous and make gorgeous sparkling wines that rival Champagne! Act fast if you would like another bottle of the 2009 Annamaria Clementi!
We also brought in their NV Ca’del Bosco, Cuvee Prestige, Brut, Franciacorta that will be available in the wine shop if you are interested in more from this benchmark Franciacorta producer!
Rice Balls with Meat Stuffing (Arancine)
This is a classic Sicilian recipe that was presented to our tour group while we stayed at one of my favorite wineries, PLANETA. This recipe will make 25 golf ball sized Rice balls, and is great with dry Rose’ wines
Ingredients:
For the rice
- 1 lb. 2 oz. Carnaroli rice
- qt. water
- 4 ½ oz. butter
- 1 ½ oz. onion
- 1 celery stalk
- 1 carrot
- ¼ oz. saffron
- 1 ¾ oz. Grana Padano DOP salt to taste
For the filling
- 600 g / 1 lb. 5 oz. beef, diced
- 500 ml / 17 fl. oz. tomato sauce
- 1 kg / 2 lb. 2 oz. onion, minced
- 200 g / 7 oz. tomato paste
- 100 ml / 3 ½ fl. oz. aged wine
- 100 g / 3 ½ oz. peas
- 300 g / 11 oz. Primosale
- 150 ml / 5 ½ fl. oz. extra-virgin olive oil
- ground cinnamon
- Salt & Pepper to Taste
For the coating
- pastry flour
- 2 beaten eggs
- 200 g / 7 oz. breadcrumbs
Method:
In a large pot, bring the salted water, onion, celery and carrot to boil. Turn down the heat and let cook over a low flame for at least 30 minutes. Filter the vegetable stock, then add the saffron. When the water is dark yellow add the rice. Cook over medium to high heat until the liquid has evaporated. The rice will be al dente.
Pour the rice into a large baking dish, add the butter and the grated Grana Padano and blend well. While the rice cools, prepare the filling. Heat some olive oil in a pan and add the minced onion. Add the meat and let brown. Add the wine and bubble up to evaporate the alcohol. Then add the tomato sauce and the tomato paste. Add salt, pepper and cinnamon to taste and cook over very low heat. Prod the meat with a fork to make sure it’s tender. Blanch the peas, then drain and add them to the meat.
Lastly, add the Primosale cheese cut into small cubes. Take a small quantity of rice and flatten it in the palm of your hand. (Wet your hand before to stop the rice from sticking). Make a well big enough for a small amount of stuffing, then close the rice over to form a ball. The stuffing should be equal to two-thirds the weight of the arancino, the rice one-third. Moisten the rice balls with water, dredge in the flour, dip in the beaten egg, and finally coat with breadcrumbs. Fry in a generous amount of oil until golden brown and serve hot.
October 2019