Wine Club Newsletter - February 2020
Three Questions for 2020 Wine
I thought it would be interesting to ask my staff three questions about what to look for in the wine business for the upcoming year.
- What trends will happen?
- What should happen?
- What deserves to go away
Arthur Defail
Level 3 Award WSET, Passed with Distinction, Sommelier, Wine Clubs Manager The WineSellar & Brasserie
What trends will happen?
Austrian wines are probably going to keep gaining in popularity, as they should. This beautiful country produces some of the finest white wines in the world at ridiculously affordable prices for the quality (for now). Their Rieslings and other Gruner Veltliner offer such clean, crisp, mouthwatering wines that are delicious on their own or can be paired with seafood and a whole range of cheeses.
They are the exact opposite of the big oaky-creamy-high-alcohol chardonnays from warmer climate that people have started to steer away from. Elegance, finesse, complexity, high drink-ability and almost limitless age-ability (for the best examples of them) are the first adjectives that come to mind. Also, we will keep seeing an increasing number of organic and biodynamic wineries and wines on the market, which is great news for our planet and future generations.
What should happen?
Easily understandable back labels should state the level of residual sugar (or basic sweetness level on a scale of one to ten) in the wines, especially for varietals and appellations that have a reputation for producing "sweet" wines such as Riesling, Gewurztraminer in Alsace, Germany or in the US and Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley. This would help the customers in their choices and make them realize there are also stunning dry versions of those wines on the market.
What deserves the Dumpster?
I am all-in for supporting the "green trend" in every aspect of our lives, including wines: the less chemicals we use in the grapes and wines’ production, the better for us and the environment. That being said, some extreme examples have flooded some wine shops shelves and restaurants. "Natural" wines (with no added sulfites -SO2 is a natural antioxidant, antifungal, and preservative) are sometimes very hard to enjoy. The usual line from the sommelier or winemaker when one does not like a natural wine is "you just need to reeducate your palate". Well, I disagree: some of these wines are just flawed and should never reach anyone's palate in the first place. Let's do without them...
Please note that there are amazing examples of natural wines out there, but it requires a lot of discipline, skills and effort to produce such wines without adding sulfites, and not everyone is capable of it!
Bridget West
Certified Sommelier, Champagne Master, French Wine Scholar, Advanced WSET. Director of WineSellar & Brasserie Champagne Club
What trends will happen?
I agree with Gary! Lodi and Amador County has some beautiful wines with great pricing that I think we will see a lot more of in 2020, as well as more demand and interest for the wines of Greece. I also think there will be more availability and interest in Franciacorta.
What should happen?
Exploration of lesser-known regions with more approachable price points (see above as well as Vino Verde, Abruzzo, Jura for more examples...)
What deserves the Dumpster?
Barefoot Pink Moscato and other garbage “spoofilated” wines, overblown high alcohol wines
Gary Parker
Owner, The WineSellar & Brasserie
What trends will happen?
For us in California, we will be seeing more wines coming from Lodi, and a few other unheralded viticulture regions in the state. If tariffs are not lifted from European wines, expect to see more Southern Hemisphere wines on the shelves. Watch for wines from Sicily and Greece coming in to play as well. Packaging . . . see below.
What should happen?
Economics in packaging. We now see wines, quality wines, coming in boxes and yes, even cans. We have discovered we do not need corks so much, as screw caps have been doing very well. Why not put wine in more environmentally friendly containers, especially the ones meant to be consumed right away.
What deserves the Dumpster?
Can we do without Orange wines? I don’t find them enjoyable, and I have had a number across the globe . . . I like White Wine, Rose’ Wine, and Red Wine. Call me a traditionalist (please), but I am not a fan of green wines, blue wines, or any other wines of colors other than which I previously stated. Thank you!
2017 Foris, Pinot Gris, Rogue Valley
Growing Region: Rogue Valley, Oregon
Varietal Composition: 100% Pinot Gris
Fermentation: 30 Days in Stainless Steel
Alcohol Content: 14%
Suggested Retail: $16.00
WineSellar Club Price: $14.39
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: Foris wines are defined by our alpine climate due to our unique location. Our estate vineyards and winery are located at 1500 feet within the Rogue Valley AVA, Oregon --- in the Illinois Valley within the Siskiyou Mountains. Established in 1976, the Gerber family has been farming grapes for over forty years, specializing in Alsace white varieties and Pinot Noir, which are especially well suited to our microclimate. The dramatic natural beauty and purity of our surrounding environment is reflected in the vibrant epicurean wines that have earned us a place in some of America’s finest restaurants and wine shops.
Appearance:
It has a simple, straightforward label with a lovely photo of the vineyard in winter months. Nice back label notes, and YAY, another screw cap! The color is a faint hue of yellow, with pea green and gray tones, shimmering in the clear liquid.
Nose:
Aromas of white flowers, especially honeysuckle, with pear, peaches, Meyer lemon, almonds and cinnamon. Showing no signs of its age, the wine is still offering freshness, with engaging fruit
Texture:
Truly get the feel that this is a wine from Alsace, France. It is weighty in the palate, with a sophisticated, elegant and unique wine. It is well balanced, and glides through the palate with and assertive grace. It is luscious and racy at the same time.
Flavors:
Fresh summer peaches and nectarines, with a lovely spice tone of cardamom dominating the early palate. White tree fruit takes over midway, pear liqueur, ginger flower, rain water and skin of almond.
Serving Suggestions:
This is an amazing wine, in that it is so versatile. It can be consumed on its own as an aperitif, or with a main course, a salad, and even fresh fruit and cheese. It will also stay in the bottle a few more years, taking on some aged complexities that will delight those that decide to stash some away in the cellar.
2016 Torii Mor Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Growing Region: Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Varietal Composition: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: 13% New French Oak, Nine Months
Alcohol Content: 12.7%
Suggested Retail: $33.00
WineSellar Club Price: $26.09
Broad Strokes:
Torii Mor Winery started with a vision: the pursuit of elegant, Old World style Pinot Noir.
Dr. Donald Olson moved to Oregon to pursue this vision and purchased an older vineyard in the Willamette Valley, planted in 1972, and renamed it Olson Estate Vineyard. High in the Dundee Hills, the ten acres of old vines produce high-quality Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay year after year.
Don was drawn to the close ties Pinot Noir has to the earth and its ability to express terroir. The name Torii Mor derives from the Torii gate in the property’s Japanese garden and the ancient Scandinavian word for earth. Together, the name is a nod to Pinot Noir’s expression of terroir and connection to the earth
Appearance:
I’ve always enjoyed the Torii Mor label and logo, as well as the story behind it (see above). It’s a standout on the shelf, and has a good back label read. The color of the wine is a light version of cherry red, and bleeds out almost totally clear on the rim of the glass. You can observe small visual traces from a few years being in the bottle.
Nose:
Noticeable wood notes on the nose, with ripe and stewed cherries. Notes of dark berry richness, to include blackberry and boysenberry, we found the intensity quite high for an Oregon Pinot Noir (good thing!). Also noted the scent of Earl Grey Tea, and on the savory side, sautéed mushrooms, rhubarb, and some dusty, earthy notes.
Texture:
The wine is medium in weight, nicely balanced, and vibrant. The wine feels very clean on the palate – you can detect a high acid component especially when you first open the bottle. It opens up, then closes down, then opens up again, finishing firm and clean.
Flavors:
The black and red fruits jump out immediately. Notes of Bing cherry, boysenberries are lovely as well as the subtle wood-notes and spicy oak tones. There is a nice earthiness, but not funky or moldy. Like the nose, the palate is really clean, illustrating top-notch winemaking and beautiful grapes.
Serving Suggestions:
This may further benefit with a few more years in the bottle. Keep food pairing simple.
2016 Mignanelli Pinot Noir, Eola Amity Hills
Growing Region: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Varietal Composition: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: 20% New French Oak
Alcohol Content: 13.4%
Suggested Retail: $49.00
WineSellar Club Price: $35.99
Broad Strokes:
Mignanelli Family Wines has become known for crafting with distinction only Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Unique soils, climates and topography, coinciding with our dry farming practices define the character expressed in each wine. The Mignanelli Family has partnered with long-term notable growers in the most sought-after appellations to artfully compose wines of impeccable quality and true varietal character. Our vineyard focused philosophy can be credited with the elegance of our wines. Using the terroir to express the varietal, allows the growing season to define the vintage.
With great passion and commitment towards perfection, quality and the environment we continue to expand our winemaking journey throughout California’s Central Coast, exploring new vineyards - from the mountain tops to the valley floor.
Appearance:
The font on “Mignanelli” is a bit trying, but I like the way the label sets up overall, including the clean and easy to read back label. An Oregon wine is a bit of a departure for Magnanelli, and I thought it should be displayed more effectively. Nice Pinot Noir look, dark strawberry skin hue going to clear on the edges.
Nose:
Obvious and significant Pinot Noir traits and characteristics greet you on the nose. Dark cherry fruit (and skin?) are lined with notes of red licorices, Madagascar vanilla, root beer, dark soil (clay). Lovely!
Texture:
Medium in weight, the entry is smooth and elegant, it stays in your mouth for a long time, without overwhelming the senses, almost balsamic like. Has some nice crispy acid on the finish for cleaning up foods.
Flavors:
Bright cherry fruit on the attack, with a bottom of luscious, rich fruit. I got a cornucopia of flavors . . . chocolate, coffee bean, root beer, red licorice, roasted beets, wild berry jam from Italy, balsamic, jicama, and a touch of clay/earth.
Serving Suggestions:
What a lovely Pinot Noir! It is drinking so perfectly right now, it is an excellent value for Pinot Noir!
2016 Mullan Road Cellars Red Blend
Growing Region: Columbia Valley, Washington
Varietal Composition: 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc
Fermentation: 18 Months New French & American Oak
Alcohol Content: 14.1%
Suggested Retail: $45.00
WineSellar Club Price: $38.69
Broad Strokes: 92-94 Points, Gold Medal San Francisco Wine Competition
Mullan Road Cellars is a project led by Dennis Cakebread of Cakebread Cellars to produce first class wines from the unique microclimates of Washington State. Drawn by the high quality of wines coming out of the Columbia Valley. The grapes for Mullan Road Cellars Red Blend come from several outstanding, low-yielding vineyards in the Columbia Valley, including the famed Seven Hills Vineyard, as well as Stillwater Creek Vineyard and the Corfu Crossing Vineyard outside Royal City, an area soon to be designated the Royal Slope appellation. The winemaker is Aryn Morrell, a Washington native who spent years making wine in Napa Valley with prestigious wineries such as Silver Oak Cellars, Joseph Phelps, Quintessa and Chappellet before returning to Washington in 2007.
Appearance:
Pretty cool looking package. It kind of has a wild west feel to it, especially with the graphic of the horse drawn carriage riding through the mountainside trail. The wine is nearly opaque at the core, bleeding out to deep magentas on the edges, dripping clear and oily down the bowl.
Nose:
Perfume of aromatics, with red and black fruits, currants, blackberry, raspberry, deep, ripe plum and smoke. Notes of sweet vanilla oak, with some strawberry and citrus (orange).
Texture:
Excellent solid and balanced fruit entry is smooth yet showing signs of lively acid, not tannic acid, like verve. The lovely, exceptional and enveloping fruit brings excitations and the anticipation realized of a hedonistic culinary pleasure.
Flavors:
Layered flavors are concentrated black and red fruits, raspberry, blackberry, ripe plum, cherry juice, chocolate, vanilla, smoky oak, cola, coffee, mince meat pie, fruit compote, and a crush of herbs. Just a WOW!
Serving Suggestions:
Long term wine for sure, but drinking beautifully at the moment. Good pedigree (Cakebread) adds to the confidence and certainty that it is a total winner.
2017 Collusion Red Wine
Growing Region: Columbia Valley, Washington
Varietal Composition: 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Malbec, 1% Merlot
Fermentation: 30% New French Oak
Alcohol Content: 14.1%
Suggested Retail: $31.00
WineSellar Club Price: $22.49
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: The roots of winemaker Josh Phelps run deep, raised in a winemaking family, as he was exposed to the industry from a young age. He continued to build his knowledge of the business through college, selling wine, working harvests, and creating wine for friends and his father, Chris Phelps. Josh is looking to build his own legacy and make a splash in the wine world while exposing wine drinkers of his own generation to his hometown in wine country. Working with trusted farmers and childhood friends, his company reflects his deep understanding of wine, one that can only be developed growing up around the vines.
Appearance:
The heavy bottle and overall packaging makes on think they are getting more than a $31 bottle of wine The label is distinctive, and I really like the dark yellow treatment on the foil cap. The wine is black at the core, dark red along the edges.
Nose:
The aromatics are lovely and forceful at the same moment. The Cabernet Sauvignon in the wine has a solid effect on the fragrance, and I swear I can detect the 1% of Merlot on the nose as well. Cherry, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, smoke, black raspberry, and hints of earth and dust.
Texture:
The wine is very intense, with a rich, extracted feel in the palate that lingers for quite some time. Smooth entry, medium full in body, it is mouthwatering, velvety-like, luscious through to the finish.
Flavors:
Dark cherry and black raspberry fruit pop in your mouth, followed by oak, smoke, the spices from the nose, as well as a “dusty” characteristic that I really enjoyed. Dark plum fruit comes in, a hint of anise, and just an overall broad spectrum of flavors of fruits and spices.
Serving Suggestions:
The wine has another ten years of aging potential, but if you are drinking it now, try it with a grilled steak or any red meats.
2016 Torii Mor Pinot Noir, Olson Vineyard, Willamette Valley
Growing Region: Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Varietal Composition: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: 10% New French Oak, Eighteen Months
Alcohol Content: 12.713.9%
Suggested Retail: $60.00
WineSellar Club Price: $53.99
Broad Strokes: 91 Points Wine & Spirits
Torii Mor Winery started with a vision: the pursuit of elegant, Old World style Pinot Noir.
Dr. Donald Olson moved to Oregon to pursue this vision and purchased an older vineyard in the Willamette Valley, planted in 1972, and renamed it Olson Estate Vineyard. High in the Dundee Hills, the ten acres of old vines produce high-quality Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay year after year.
Don was drawn to the close ties Pinot Noir has to the earth and its ability to express terroir. The name Torii Mor derives from the Torii gate in the property’s Japanese garden and the ancient Scandinavian word for earth. Together, the name is a nod to Pinot Noir’s expression of terroir and connection to the earth
Appearance:
I’ve always enjoyed the Torii Mor label and logo, as well as the story behind it (see above). It’s a standout on the shelf, and has a good back label read. The “Olson” label has a color reversal from the dark gray/black base to one of off white, distinguishing it from their more entry level Pinot Noir. The color of the wine at the core is a medium cherry skin red, resolving to a more clear liquid at the edges.
Nose:
Excellent, concentrated complexities rise up from the glass, with violets, strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, light game and earthen floor. Notes of fresh wood, vanilla, chocolate, black pepper, baking spice and soil are lovely!
Texture:
The wine is medium in weight, nicely balanced, and has concentrated, vibrant fruit. Still, the rich fruit layers come off soft and elegant. It stays in your palate (and memory) for a long, smooth finish.
Flavors:
Concentrated dark fruits, blueberry, blackberry, raspberry, chocolate, vanilla, pie dough, baking spices, black tea, forest floor, and a neat little gaminess. I enjoyed the notes of leather and deep, ripe plum as well.
Serving Suggestions:
The subtle texture may trick one to not understanding that there is firm, solid acid that will allow 5-10 years of improved flavors if we cellar it properly.
NV Louis Barthelemy, Topaze, Zero Dosage
Growing Region: Aÿ in the Marne Valley of Champagne, France
Varietal Composition (Cepage) : 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier, 20% Chardonnay
Vinification (From the winery): Aged on the lees for 4 years
Dosage: 0 g/l
Alcohol Content: 12.5%
Suggested Retail: $53.99
WineSellar Club Price: $48.87
From the Winery:
In 1923 a Russian Princess fled Moscow and its revolutionary unrest to Epernay and founded Baudry, Lebrun & Cie. In 2002 the estate was acquired by Jean-Barthelemy Chancel, the son of
a winemaking family from the Rhone Valley. At 25 Jean-Barthelemy was the youngest négociant of his generation. As a symbol of rebirth, he renamed the estate Louis Bathelemy and moved the
winery to Aÿ. All the Champagnes are named after precious stones. The Egyptians said that Topaz was colored by one of the rays of the sun and it has been coveted for its complex reflections and purity. This Zero Dosage cuvee is the authentic expression of the complexity of the terriors of Champagne. This Champagne will seduce you with its refinement and purity.
90 points, Decanter
Appearance:
Light golden hue
Nose:
Baked apple, lemon zest, grapefruit, brioche
Texture:
Precise, elegant beading
Flavors:
Crisp Granny Smith apples, quince, lemon zest, honey and ginger
Serving Suggestions:
This Champagne is beautiful with Greek cuisine! Try with grilled lemon chicken, tzatziki, hummus, warm pita and horiatiki salad!
NV Collet, Brut Rose
Growing Region: Pinot Noir is sourced from Grand Cru and Premier Cru villages of Aÿ, Hautvillers, Avenay-Vald’Or and Louvois, the Chardonnay predominately from the Premier Cru village of Vertus
Varietal Composition (Cepage): 50% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Meunier
Vinification (From the winery): 20% Reserve Wine
Dosage: 10g/l
Alcohol Content: 12.5%
Suggested Retail: $52.99
WineSellar Club Price: $47.69
From the Winery:
Located in Aÿ, Champagne Collet has been producing elegant Champagne from Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards since 1921. The wines are centered on gastronomy and capture the artistic and joyful spirit of the Art Deco period.
91 points, Wine Spectator
Appearance:
Shimmering rose gold hue, reminiscent of a perfect pink sunset
Nose:
Red apple, raspberries, white cherries and red roses
Texture:
Dancing, spirited bubbles!
Flavors:
Juicy cherries, raspberries, watermelon, pastry crust, fresh and lively acidity
Serving Suggestions:
This is the perfect Champagne to serve with macarons…strawberry, cherry or white chocolate raspberry…hello heaven!
Asparagus Soup with Black Truffle Flan
This is a killer dish to make for a dinner party! It is a bit complicated, but the resulting dish is so worth it!
Yield 2 qt.
Soup Ingredients:
- 1 medium leek (white part only) sliced
- 1 small brown onion sliced
- 1 clove garlic, peeled and sliced
- 1 tbs. olive oil
- 3 bunches fresh asparagus chopped in food processor (reserve tips for garnish)
- 1 1/2 qt. clear chicken stock
- 2 tbs. unsalted butter
- salt and pepper
In a large saucepot, heat the olive oil. Add the first three ingredients and cook; do not brown. When the onions are soft, add the chicken stock and turn up the flame. Bring it to a boil. Add the asparagus and cook until the asparagus has turned bright green.
Remove from the stove and puree in a blender. Pass through a fine mesh strainer twice.
Add the butter, salt and pepper to taste.
Flan Ingredients:
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 3 egg yokes
- 1 whole egg
- 1/4 tsp. chopped black truffle
- 1/2 tsp. black truffle oil
- salt and pepper to taste
Combine all the ingredients in mixing bowl and whisk together. Taste the custard and adjust seasoning. Pour two ounces custard base in ramekin. Place in hotel pan. Fill with hot water half way up the side ramekin. Bake in 325-degree oven for 40 minutes, rotating every ten minutes, or until the custard is set.
Garnish with chervil