Wine Club Newsletter - August 2020
RESTAURANT CHAINS USE THE PANDEMIC TO HACK OFF WEAK STORES
By Peter Romeo, Restaurant Business Magazine
The casualty figures are a gut punch: Dunkin’, 1,150 units. McDonald’s, 200. Starbucks, 400.
The closings announced by restaurant chains in recent weeks are even more jaw-dropping when expressed as how much the operations will shrink. Pret A Manger is turning off the “Open” signs at 66% of its U.S. stores, or all 17 of its outlets in Chicago and Boston, plus 30 branches in its U.K. homeland. PizzaRev permanently fired down the ovens in more than 50% of its locations. Zinburger turned off the grills in 15 of its 18 East Coast locations.
The list goes on and on: Denny’s has lost 31 locations. Dine Brands Global, parent of Applebee’s and IHOP, won’t say how many additional units will be shut, but acknowledges that more closures are coming. That’s with 56 Applebee’s locations currently shut, some possibly forever.
Ruth's Chris said Friday that he may have to close five more company-run units after shutting five during the second quarter. The high-end steak chain also backed out of two leases for future sites.
Every one of the chains describes the closed stores as weak links that would have likely shut down if the nation had never learned to say “COVID-19.” They contend that the pandemic has merely accelerated the plug pulling. “They are likely not going to make it through the next remodel cycle or the next lease renewal,” Denny’s CEO John Miller said of the 30 franchised restaurants and one company-run unit that have closed so far this year within his charge.
Some, including Dine Brands, hint that the shutdowns could create an unprecedented expansion opportunity for operators with deep pockets and a brand identity strong enough to pull the system through the crisis. In any case, says CEO Steve Joyce, the drop in supply should translate into improved market share for his concepts.
Chipotle is even reaching out to operations that are clearly wheezing but haven’t decided yet to throw in the napkin and shut down.
Technomic projects that about 11,000 units of the Top 500 chains will go dark. The carnage is expected to be far more severe among small chains and independents presumably on their way to becoming regional chains. The research company sees those categories shrinking collectively by 100,000 stores, or about 19%.
The cutback announcements have come in a flurry, making the planned prunings challenging to track. Here’s a scorecard of sorts:
Dunkin’: 800 domestic stores, 350 more abroad
CEO Dave Hoffmann assured investors that the brand is cutting the brand’s laggards—“off-strategy locations” with abysmal sales, a part of current management’s strategy of focusing on “quality over quantity.” Indeed, the asterisk to the announcement is that 450 of the branches are satellite stations inside Speedway convenience stores. That retrenchment in Dunkin’s non-traditional siting plan had been previously announced.
All told, the domestic branches account for about 8% of the U.S. store count, according to CFO Kate Jaspon, but generate only 2% of systemwide domestic sales.
McDonald’s: 100+ embedded units, nearly 100 more from the general U.S. for the burger giant has also decided to pull back significantly on its non-traditional siting, with plans to shut more than 100 units embedded inside Walmart stores. It’s a continuation of the retreat from retail locations that McDonald’s began years ago. The notion of putting an outlet within earshot of “Welcome, Walmart shoppers!” has been eclipsed by the greater convenience for a broader swathe of the public of developing a drive-thru-equipped unit near
Starbucks: 400 traditional units
Similarly, the king of coffee intends to shutter 400 stores sporting dining rooms to facilitate a strategic shift to takeout-only operations surrounding a few traditional Starbucks cafes. Starbucks’ announcement in mid-June called for the transformation over an 18-month stretch.
California Pizza Kitchen: ?
A brand conceived as a way of bringing gourmet pizzas to the masses has filed for bankruptcy protection, in part because of an inability to pay its overdue rents. Management has said that unit closings are coming, but has not revealed how many may be saucing their last pies. About 200 locations are currently in operation.
2018 Eagle’s Cliff Chenin Blanc
Growing Region Breede River Valley, South Africa
Varietal Composition 100% Chenin Blanc
Fermentation Stainless Steel
Alcohol Content 12%
Suggested Retail $18.00
WineSellar Club Price $16.19
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: Situated between Villiersdorp and Worcester, in the breathtakingly beautiful Breede River Valley, is the home of Eagle’s Cliff Wines. We produce a wide range of exceptional quality red and white wines, namely Arendskloof, Eagle’s Cliff, Dwyka Hills and Hoeks Rivier.
Christiaan Groenewald, who is the founder of the New Cape Wines Company, won the prestigious Diner’s Club Winemaker of the Year Award in 2013 with his Tannat Syrah 2011 and again in 2017 with his Eagle’s Cliff Pinotage 2017. He is one of only 5 winemakers to have received this award twice.
New Cape Wines distributes its award-winning wine ranges locally, and also exports to Europe, destined mainly for Germany and Switzerland.
Appearance:
Kind of a “homey-looking” label to me, and while I don’t particularly like the green bottles, it is a screw cap. I’ll be all right. The wine is clear, with a slight tinge of green lacing the metallic/gold/silver hue.
Nose:
Excellent Chenin Blanc varietal essence, seemingly picked at perfect ripeness. Lightly toasted pine nuts. Almond, stone, mineral, clay, riverbed notes. It has green apple freshness, reminding me of wine from the Mosel but with a hint of lime.
Texture:
Light and refreshing, with a full style creaminess in the middle. A racy feel, solid in structure, with firm yet well melded acids. Clean and beautiful, finishing with a slate mineral feel I find really cool.
Flavors:
A totally delightful flavor profile, it improves dramatically with air and served cool, NOT cold. Apple, Meyer lemon, Mandarin orange, vanilla, caramel custard, egg white, and toasted brioche.
Serving Suggestions:
I wanted freshly shucked oysters with this, and I will make sure that happens next bottle I open. Again, don’t drink it too cold, and see how it keeps getting better and better!
2014 Bodegas Herederos de Perfecto Martinez - 1808 Reserva Temperament Natural
Growing Region Laguardia, Rioja, Spain
Varietal Composition 100% Tempranillo
Fermentation 18 Months American Oak
Alcohol Content 13.8%
Suggested Retail $30.00
WineSellar Club Price $24.29
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: In southern Basque Country, surrounded by vineyards and small lakes, the medieval town of Laguardia rises on a fortified hill. Cars are not allowed in the town as it riddled with two hundred caves underneath the surface where, even nowadays, some of the best wines of Rioja Alavesa are kept.
In one of these caves, six metres below the surface, the Martínez family began their wine enterprise in the 16th century. From the 19th century onwards, Perfecto Martínez starts a new project which, over five generations, has managed to respect tradition and which keeps on producing wines representative of their environment as an identity sign.
Appearance:
The package is a real “WOW”! I love the shape of the bottle, the shape of the label, and the etching of the 1808. What I really didn’t care for is that it is very hard to read anything on it except in bright light. Even then . . . Color of black cherry skin
Nose:
Sarsaparilla. It has a somewhat restrained and quite savory nose with aromas of fresh dark berries, crunchy raspberries, a little bit of wild strawberries and a hint of vanilla. Fresh red fruits, anise, very ripe plum also.
Texture:
It is medium to medium full in body. It feels more contemporary that your typical Rioja, with a more fresh, ripe feel and newer wood style of treatment. Well-structured, dry and savory, it does have a lovely opulence, and rounds in the mouth. Nice little bite on the finish, great for food pairing.
Flavors:
Dark berries, vanilla, and hint of strawberry fruit, ripe plum, black raspberry, and notes of fresh wood. I also got Indian spices, black pepper, black licorice, cranberry fruit and coffee/cappuccino tastes. Finishes clean and lovely!
Serving Suggestions:
This is great with grilled red meats, charcuterie plate, pate, and would also be lovely with a spicy rice dish. It will age another 3-5 years, easily.
2013 Syrah, Zotovich
Growing Region Santa Rita Hills, California
Varietal Composition 100% Syrah
Fermentation Stainless Steel, Carbonic Maceration
Alcohol Content 14%
Suggested Retail $4500
WineSellar Club Price $34.19
Broad Strokes: 95 Points Vinous, 92 Points Cellar Tracker
From the Winery: Zotovich Vineyards is a family owned; boutique winery located in the Central Coast's beautiful Santa Rita Hills. We produce small lot hand crafted wines from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, Grenache and Viognier from 40-acre estate vineyard. We treat the wines produced from our unique vineyard site as gently as possible, understanding that minimal handling yields maximum quality.
Owner Steve Zotovich spent decades as an avid wine collector before finding himself in a position to become owner of what has now become one of the top vineyards in the Santa Rita Hills AVA. Steve's passion for the vineyard and the wines it produces drives his relentless pursuit of excellence in everything we do here at Zotovich Vineyards.
Appearance:
Great thinking on the wax capsule, never seen that before - it comes off when you open the bottle. Typically, wax capsules are a pain! Zotovich label holds the same theme and dynamics, good presence on the shelf tor identity purposes. The wine is medium dark garnet, with gray/black hues, showing a nice little bit of maturity.
Nose:
It has some typical yet classic notes of Syrah that have a few years in the bottle; black olive, earthen soil, dark plum, roasted nuts, rosemary and fine herbs. The nose is somewhat subdued. The mildness adds to the charm, and adds to the complexity of this gorgeous drink.
Texture:
Lots of early acid, yet you still experience a smooth entry. The clinging acid has a melding feel, due to it’s age in the bottle, yet reveals evolved fruit and elegance for this seven year old wine. Gotta love it!
Flavors:
I totally understand the 95 point rating. The wine is exquisite. Deep dark plum. Forest floor fresh and dried cherries white pepper and fresh grapes. Some balsamic intensity, with boysenberry, raspberry, just a WOW!
Serving Suggestions:
Ready now, and for another 5-8 years Why not get yourself a great bottle of aged wine!??
2018 Kanzler Pinot Noir
Growing Region Russian River Valley, California
Varietal Composition 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation 14 Months French Oak, 13% New Oak
Alcohol Content 14.4%
Suggested Retail $60.00
WineSellar Club Price $53.99
Broad Strokes: 93 Points Cellar Tracker
From the Winery: We nurtured our vines for four years, and then had our first harvest in fall 2000. In the early years we sold our grapes to wineries both well-known and obscure. Notable early customers were Kosta Browne (a recently launched unknown that would go on to take the Pinot world by storm), Landmark, Flowers, Gary Farrell, Rhys Vineyards, and CL Wines.
It didn’t take long for our clients to realize that our vineyard produced Pinot Noir of rare distinction and quality. Kosta Browne has made a Kanzler vineyard designate every year since 2002, with the 2004 rating 98 points from Wine Spectator, still one of the highest scores ever awarded to a domestically produced Pinot Noir.
Appearance:
Looks nice, with a readable label, and I like the images of the vineyard that swath through it. There is a certain purity to that. The wine is quite pretty, with a deep red-ruby hue, and has solid color and legs.
Nose:
Great Pinot Noir fruit, complex and inviting. A solid note of clove awaits under the red fruit nuances, with spice box, lilac, wood smoke, and a little touch of gaminess. Look for black pepper, coffee and dairy.
Texture:
Medium to medium full in body and weight. There is a wonderful enveloping fruit forward richness, with a touch of youthful, crispy-like acid. It has an expansive feel in the mouth, but not in an aggressive fashion. The wine is silky, creamy, and smooth, with tremendous length on the finish.
Flavors:
Lovely, ripe cherry fruit with strawberry (preserves), and some black fruits as well. Tobacco, smoke, wood, caramel, and vanilla are wrapping around the solid clove/spice box core of flavors. Modern style, very sophisticated, very delicious. I am coming back for more!
Serving Suggestions:
It is fine to drink this wine young, but I am going to salt some away for about ten years. It is delicious now, a treasure for the cellar!
2018 Sancerre Rouge, Domain Jean-Jacques Auchere
Growing Region Loire Valley, France
Varietal Composition 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation Stainless Steel, Carbonic Maceration
Alcohol Content 12.5%
Suggested Retail $33.00
WineSellar Club Price $29.69
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: The Auchere family’s winemaking tradition has been passed from grandfather to father to son for generations. At the head of the family estate Jean-Jacques Auchere personally approves each wine to assure quality and consistency.
(GP) This is a small producer, making lovely indigenous wines that are totally an expression of their place on the planet, and certainly to be appreciated!
Appearance:
I love the classic Loire Valley style appearance of the package. Round crested label shape with gold embossing, and alas, don’t forget the family crest. Even the foil cap is cool. The wine is very dark for Pinot Noir fruit, especially from the Loire Valley, which typically is a bit more transparent.
Nose:
Some nice Pinot Noir fruit aromatics, with cherry and herb notes that are quite charming. Got some black licorice, black walnut, grilled bread, basil, cardamom, root beer and cola. Check for a hint of saline and pomegranate fruit.
Texture:
Medium in body, but long and intense on the palate, keeping the wine in your mouth and thoughts, thereby commanding attention. The middle finishes extended and lengthy. Some tart cherry juice gives it a bit of an edge, happily and welcomed. I keep going back to the “juicy” middle palate, loving that.
Flavors:
Lots of flavors going on . . . deep, ripe plum fruit, black raspberry, black pepper, wonderful Pinot Noir fruit that shows some earthiness. Earthiness from a different land, and a different style that we might be familiar with, yet still decidedly Pinot Noir. Cardamom, black walnut, cola and root beer, hint of strawberry, but mostly a brilliant adult and sophisticated beverage for us to experience and enjoy.
Serving Suggestions:
This should be consumed at cellar temperature, not room temperature, and within the next few years. Not for aging, but to enjoy now!
2013 NV Jane Ventura, Do, Gran Reserva Cava
Growing Region: Baix Penedes County, DO Penedes Spain
Varietal Composition: 65% Xarel-lo, 35% Macabeao
Vinification: Manual harvest, 100% from Old Vines ( 40-80 years old ) and bottles in February 2014. 60 months bottle aging. Manual riddling.
Dosage: 0 g/l
Alcohol Content: 12.5% abv
Suggested Retail: $36.99
WineSellar Club Price: $32.00
From the Winery:
Began in 1914, now owned by the 4th generation of the Jane family, Gerard Jane. The vineyards are heavily influenced by the Mediterranean Sea and local herbs. Gerard has a holistic approach to his work, involving his love for the soil, grapes, music (evident in the name of the Cava), sea, and air, all of which combine to make these truly special wines.
Appearance:
Brilliant pale yellow
Nose:
Patisserie, baked goods, as well as apricots, apples, and quince
Texture:
Elegant and persistent crown
Flavors:
Well balanced and fresh, apricots, apples, white peaches, salinity and Marcona almonds.
Serving Suggestions:
There is an abundance of pairing options, but we think Gambas al Ajillo (garlic shrimp) would be out of this world! Create your own Tapas spread… add Marcona almonds, Manchego Cheese and Spanish olives!
NV Champagne Lombard, Extra Brut, Premier Cru
Growing Region: Premier villages of; Grauves, Coulomnes-la-Montagne, Vertus, Sermier, Villedomange in Champagne, France
Varietal Composition: 50% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir, 25% Pinot Meunier
Vinification: The Champagne is left on the lees for at least 36 months, Disgorged in April of 2019.
Dosage: 4 g/l
Alcohol Content: 12.5% abv
Suggested Retail: $49.99
WineSellar Club Price: $39.00
From the Winery:
Champagne Lombard is a small family owned estate in Epernay. The family owns 10 hectares of vineyards, all sustainably farmed. The “caves” of Lombard stretch across two levels and adjoining streets across 1.5 miles.
Appearance:
Bright and beautiful golden yellow
Nose:
Perfumed notes of citrus and yellow Mirabelle plums
Texture:
Fine, precise bubbles
Flavors:
Almonds, hazelnuts, honey, baked apples, cinnamon, richer Champagne style!
Complex and elegant.
Serving Suggestions:
We are going classic with this beauty…oysters, shrimp cocktail, maybe even a seafood tower!
NV Champagne Monthuys Pere et Fils, Brut Reserve
Growing Region: Marne Valley
Varietal Composition: 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir
Vinification: The Champagne is aged on the lees for at least 6 months
Dosage: 9 g/l
Alcohol Content: 12.5% abv
Suggested Retail: $45.00
WineSellar Club Price: $29.00
90 pts Wine Spectator
From the Winery:
Although the Baron family has been cultivating vineyards in Champagne since the 17th century, in 1966 Gabriel Baron decided to produce his own Champagne. The first of his production was marketed for private collectors and restaurants. Today the family owns 20 hectares and is settled in the village of Charley-Sur-Marne.
Appearance:
Bright, pale yellow color
Nose:
Toasted almonds, citrus, poached apples, and pears
Texture:
A lovely creamy, mousse
Flavors:
Apples, pears, honey and smokey minerality. Very sleek.
Pain grille. Toasty and creamy on the finish.
Serving Suggestions:
Smoked salmon on blinis with crème fraiche!
Green Bean Casserole
Admired Chef, culinary virtuoso, and good friend Andrew Spurgin posted this recipe a few days back, and I could just about taste it. Says he: “I’ve never made an old school Green Bean Casserole before, but something tells me that mothers of the 60’s were on to something...”
Ingredients:
- 2 cups blue lake green beans
- 2 TBLS raw or organic butter
- ½ cup minced shallots
- 1 TBLS Finely minced garlic
- 2 cups sliced brown mushrooms
- 2 cups sliced shiitake mushrooms
- Sea Salt, pepper to taste
- 2 cups whole organic milk
- 2 TBLS Flour
- ½ cup finely grated parmesan cheese
- 1 TSP nutmeg
- 1 cup panko bread crumbs
Method:
-
Boil beans in heavily salted water until just soft, drain & shock in ice water, dry, cut into 1 1/2 inch segments
-
Melt 2 TBSP raw or organic butter, sauté 1/2 cup minced shallots until translucent, add tablespoon of finely minced garlic, cook for one minute, add 2 cups sliced brown mushrooms & 2 cups sliced shiitake mushrooms, sauté, season generously with freshly ground pepper & sea salt sea salt (like Sel Gris)
-
Cook until all moisture is gone & mushrooms have been thoroughly cooked, TASTE
-
Add Blue Lake Green Beans to Mushroom mix & place in oiled casserole dish
-
Warm 2 cups of whole organic or raw milk
-
In a sauté pan melt raw or organic butter until bubbling.
-
Add flour (you’re making a roux) cook until it smells biscuity
-
Slowly add warm milk to roux, cook until thickened
-
Add Parmesan to béchamel (milk/flour mixture), add sea salt & freshly ground pepper.
-
TASTE, add finely grated nutmeg
-
Pour Mornay (cheese sauce) over mushroom mixture stir a bit so Mornay sauce covers mixture evenly, allow to cool
-
Meanwhile mix Panko breadcrumbs with finely grated Parmesan ratio should be about 2 parts Panko 1 part Parmesan
-
Preheat oven to 350°F
-
Cover bean/mushroom mix with Panko-Parmesan mixture
-
Lightly spray with Avocado Oil or Olive Oil
-
Bake for approx. 30 minutes
-
Finish under broiler (keep your eye on it: it can go from golden brown to burnt in a nanosecond)