Wine Club Newsletter - June 2021
California Winemaker Jim Clendenen Dies at 68
BY MATT KETTMANN, THE WINE ENTHUSIAST
I had the pleasure of meeting this man a few times, the first when we had him here for a winemaker dinner at The Brasserie in 1992. We talked and sipped through to the wee hours after the dinner. I always had fun with him, as well as thoughtful, interesting conversations.
To me, he was one of the wine greats, and I felt very fortunate to have had time with him. I, too, will miss him! Gary Parker
In an industry loaded with gregarious personalities, winemaker Jim Clendenen, who died on May 15 at 68 years old, was cut from even more colorful cloth.
With a flowing mane of wild hair, intense eyes and fierce confidence, Clendenen, the owner of Au Bon Climat winery, spent his entire career promoting the wines of Santa Barbara County around the world. He proved that Pinot Noir and Chardonnay could be made in a leaner, Burgundian style despite abundant California sunshine, and mentored generations of winemakers-to-be.
He’s also remembered as a great father to his two children, a dear friend to dozens and a bon vivant who cooked and hosted long, leisurely lunches at his Santa Maria Valley winery whenever he wasn’t on the road.
“I have a good lifestyle, and I’ve been able to buy real estate, but every dollar I’ve earned in my life I earned in the wine business—not many people can say that,” Clendenen told me last year. He was honored to be among the few who could grow and self-sustain a small wine company. “It’s been a great trip,” he said.
Raised in Southern California, Clendenen came north in 1971 to attend University of California, Santa Barbara, where he considered being a lawyer. But he found work with the region’s emerging wine industry and toiled in the cellar at Zaca Mesa Winery in the Santa Ynez Valley for a couple of years. Recurrent trips to Europe, particularly working harvests in Burgundy, inspired Clendenen to cofound Au Bon Climat with his friend Adam Tolmach in 1982.
Clendenen was moved by the egalitarian nature of Burgundy compared to other regions of the world, and wanted to make wines in the older ways, with lower sugars, higher acid and less new oak. Critics applauded the effort, naming the winery one of the best in the world by 1990.
In 1989, Tolmach left the partnership and Clendenen moved into a new facility on Bien Nacido Vineyards, sharing space with another friend, winemaker Bob Lindquist. They’ve been in the same facility ever since.
Lindquist was shocked by the news of Clendenen’s passing. He toasted his friend at a winery lunch on Monday, raiding the cellar to find gems going all the way back to a 1986 Pinot Noir.
“He’ll be remembered for putting Santa Barbara on the map,” says Lindquist, who started working with Clendenen back in 1979 and was encouraged by him to start his Syrah-focused brand, Qupe, in 1982. “A lot of people can make that claim, like Richard Sanford or Brooks Firestone, but nobody did more to promote Santa Barbara internationally than Jim did.”
Clendenen was also integral to elevating the reputation of Bien Nacido Vineyards, now considered the most site-designated vineyard in the world.
“Certainly for my own family, we owe so much of our own success in the wine world to the force of nature that is Jim Clendenen,” says Nicholas Miller, whose family planted Bien Nacido nearly 50 years ago. “As an individual, I think he probably did more to put Santa Barbara County, Santa Maria Valley and Bien Nacido Vineyards on the map globally than anyone else I can think of. He was a mentor to anyone in the industry who met him as everyone was pulled into his gravitational pull.”
Clendenen inspired the wine projects of sommeliers like Paul Lato, Joshua Klapper and Rajat Parr, who said that his “big brother…showed me the way in life.”
Clendenen also inspired his now-ex-wife, Morgan Clendenen, to start her brand Cold Heaven; his niece, Marisa Clendenen Matela, to go into winemaking; and countless other members of the next generation, including Marc Piro, Michael Brughelli and Gavin Chanin, who started making wine with Clendenen when he was barely of legal age.
Frank Ostini, who owns the Hitching Post II restaurant and co-owns Harley-Ostini Hitching Post Wines, started making his wine at Clendenen’s facility in 1991. The two were already great friends, bonding over cooking as much as wine.
“Jim was a dear friend whose influence on us and Santa Barbara wine can never be overstated,” says Ostini. “Jim presented us to the world, while he brought the world to us, and he explained it to everyone all along the way.”
Clendenen also thrived as a father to his son, Knox Alexander Clendenen, and daughter, Isabelle
Clendenen, who started working at the winery in branding a few years ago.
“My father was a very generous, bright and candid man,” she says. “He was an icon to many, but most importantly, he was a very caring father. He made sure my brother and I wanted for nothing. His loss affects so many, but his impact will never be lost to any of us. It means a lot to me that he was celebrated and loved by so many.”
2019 Ojai Vineyard, Sauvignon Blanc, McGinley Vineyard
Growing Region Happy Canyon AVA, Santa Ynez, California
Varietal Composition 100% Sauvignon Blanc
Fermentation 9 Months Neutral French Oak
Alcohol Content 13.0%
Suggested Retail $28.00
WineSellar Club Price $22.49
Broad Strokes:
The Ojai Vineyard is the creation of Adam Tolmach, one of our two original Rhone Rangers, who was responsible for founding Au Bon Climat in the early eighties with friend Jim Clendenen. Adam had planted a vineyard in Ojai to Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc and had begun producing wine from that fruit in 1983. When the collaboration with Clendenen ended he concentrated all his attention on The Ojai Vineyard to further explore the infinite details of his craft.
Appearance:
Easily recognizable packaging of The Ojai Vineyards selections, with the tilted label, yellow and brown hues, and distinctive fonts. The wine is a pale white corn yellow, clear, and reflecting light very well.
Nose:
The fragrance is a bit retracted in the beginning. The wine is tight and young, but it is showing enormous potential, with underlying deep sauvignon blanc scents, laced with mineral, gravel, ripe melon and lovely touches of citrus.
Texture:
Solid entry, lined with firm, lively, well balanced acids to fruit ratio. It totally makes my mouth water! After a few minutes, the youthfulness of this wine calms down a bit, and it reveals a fine textural experience that tells me this wine has some very good potential for aging in our cellars.
Flavors:
Golden delicious apple, and Asian pears come to mind on first sips. Then on comes ripe green melon, pineapple, citrus (lime mostly), Greek yogurt and fresh, light, leafy lettuce. Never got that in a wine before, but I love it! Earthy notes include chalk, mineral, gravelly stones. The wine is absolutely delicious, and I can’t stop my wonderment about how great this wine will be in a few years.
Serving Suggestions:
So, to satisfy that wonderment, I am going to buy myself enough of this wine to keep it in my cellar to enjoy over the next twelve years. Yes, I am going to drink one bottle a year of this wine to actually see if I am correct. But I know I am, it’s just an excuse to put something really cool in my collection!
Derby Wine Estates, Red Wine
Growing Region Paso Robles, California
Varietal Composition Zinfandel Dominate
Fermentation French & American Oak
Alcohol Content 15.5%
Suggested Retail $24.00
WineSellar Club Price $19.79
Broad Strokes:
Proprietors Ray and Pam Derby moved to the Central Coast area in the early 1990’s with the intention of retiring. In 1998, they purchased their first vineyard property, now known as Derbyshire Vineyard and their thoughts of retirement were replaced by the inspiration of being a part of the wine world. In the years following, Ray next acquired the historic Laura’s Vineyard (in east Paso) and then the Westside property, now called the Derby Vineyard. Needless to say, their plans of retirement never came to fruition.
After experiencing nearly a decade as a grape grower, the potential strengths of each property became apparent and in 2008, Ray and Pam launched Derby Wine Estates. They are extremely selective in terms of what goes into the bottle under the Derby label. The commitment to the land is appreciable, with only 20 hand-selected acres being used to provide fruit for their own brand. Grapes from the remainder (some 90% of their total acreage) are sold to some of the finest wine producers in California.
Appearance:
Simple, straightforward label with an etched derby sends an unmistakable message about the product’s identity. I like it! The wine is very dark, just about black at the core, bleeding to magenta on the edges.
Nose:
The nose has an appealing scent of ripe dark berries, with vanilla oak nuances, some spice (nutmeg) and a touch of earthiness. Really quite satisfying.
Texture:
I found it unbelievable/amazing that a wine that is this high in alcohol (15.5%) can drink so smoothly! That’s a winemaking feat folks! It is so pleasant and easy to drink!
Flavors:
Dominating the flavor descriptors for me was dark/black berries that are ripe (but not overly so), and that sweet kiss of vanilla oak.
Serving Suggestions:
This is a drink now wine. I think it is perfect for our upcoming summer BBQ’s, both as an aperitif wine, and one that would go very well with grilled meats and sausages. The winery recommends pasta, pizza, and life itself, to which I totally concur!
2014 Podere Ciona, Chianti Classico Riserva
Growing Region Gaiole, Chianti, Italy
Varietal Composition 87% Sangiovese, 11% Merlot, 2% Alicante
Fermentation New and Used French Oak
Alcohol Content 13%
Suggested Retail $42.00
WineSellar Club Price $28.79
Broad Strokes:
Podere Ciona is a family-owned vineyard and winery west of Montevarchi about a 90 minute drive south of Florence. The property is quite secluded and sits at the end of a dirt road in Montegrossi. They also have some lovely overnight guest accommodations there, which you can readily access the details of their lodging on Trip Advisor.
The Gatteschi family specializes in Chianti Classico Riserva - and they make just under a thousand cases at that. The most important wine for the estate, our Chianti Classico Riserva is meticulously crafted from the best Sangiovese grapes coming from our vineyards. Fermented and aged in French oak, then refined in the bottle for at least a year.
Appearance:
Classic looking Chianti Classico label, very Italian feel, especially with the signature Black Rooster emblem gracing the bottle. The wine itself is a light, almost delicate shade of garnet, with hues of black tea.
Nose:
Similar to its appearance, the nose is delicate and elegant, and showing some lovely signs of aging well in the bottle. Tobacco, dried herbs and spices can be detected in the strawberry/cherry fruit.
Texture:
The wine is medium in body. It needs a bit of air, as it is just a bit angular upon first opening it. Firm, yet well-balanced, the structure of the wine is solid, and the tannins are firm and grippy, leaving a long, drying finish that begs for food.
Flavors:
Light-ish, aged cherry fruit is first to appear, and is lovely. Dried herbs, tobacco and mineral notes pop through, as well as an interesting note of green peppercorns. You are witnessing the “in the bottle” evolution of a fine, prototypical Chianti Classico Riserva, and it is quite memorable.
Serving Suggestions:
The wine will go another 5+ years if you want to cellar it. For drinking now, I would pair it with all foods Italian: Pasta, pizza, red sauces, and grilled meats.
2019 Nero d’Avola, Naturalmente, Caruso Minini
Growing Region Marsal, Sicily, Italy
Varietal Composition 100% Nero d’Avola
Fermentation ½ New and Used Oak, ½ Stainless Steel
Alcohol Content 13.5%
Suggested Retail $25.00
WineSellar Club Price $21.59
Broad Strokes: 91 Points Vinous
Winery: Caruso & Minini is a joint venture between two families and two different stories that merge when Stefano Caruso, the third generation of winemakers, meets Mario & Minini, owner of a marketing company in Northern Italy. Together, back in 2004, they built the foundations of Caruso & Minini, a state-of-the-art winery in Marsala, a city at the extreme part of western Sicily.
It is an ambitious challenge, which sees protagonists the Caruso family’s agricultural tradition and the Minini sales expertise. A winning bet, because to date, the wines now reach fans in more than 3thirty countries around the world. Tradition and competence, with a look to the future. In fact, today Stefano is flanked by his two daughters, Giovanna and Rosanna, who are actively taking part in the daily work at the winery.
Appearance:
I love the packaging, especially the whimsical font for Nero D’Avola. Low sloped shoulders, nice points of information on the back label, all works well for me. The wine is nearly black, with dark crimson around the edges.
Nose:
A confident, dense assertion of black skinned cherry blows upwards from the glass. Wrapped with vanilla, deep plum and a certain smokiness, it is wildly exciting for the olfactory senses. Cocoa and oregano . . .
Texture:
It is medium full in body and weight, yet it glides through the palate like a glass of chocolate and cherry flavored milk. Very smooth, creamy and dense in the middle, finishing with a nice line of acid to remind us it is wine.
Flavors:
Dense fruit of blackberry, dark cherries, with a solid dollop of chocolate and a hint of smoke. Feels fresh, rich, lively, and quite complex. Tobacco, plum, raspberry, hints of herbs, vanilla, pomegranate, and more cherry, cherry, cherry!
Serving Suggestions:
I don’t think I would want to age this wine, except out of curiosity . . . it is so different, but drinking so perfectly in its youth. I will drink this anywhere, anytime, with anything.
2015 Derby Wine Estates, Cabernet Sauvignon, Laura’s Vineyard
Growing Region Paso Robles, California
Varietal Composition 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation French & American Oak
Alcohol Content 14.1%
Suggested Retail $46.00
WineSellar Club Price $41.39
Broad Strokes:
Proprietors Ray and Pam Derby moved to the Central Coast area in the early 1990’s with the intention of retiring. In 1998, they purchased their first vineyard property, now known as Derbyshire Vineyard and their thoughts of retirement were replaced by the inspiration of being a part of the wine world. In the years following, Ray next acquired the historic Laura’s Vineyard (in east Paso) and then the Westside property, now called the Derby Vineyard. Needless to say, their plans of retirement never came to fruition.
After experiencing nearly a decade as a grape grower, the potential strengths of each property became apparent and in 2008, Ray and Pam launched Derby Wine Estates. They are extremely selective in terms of what goes into the bottle under the Derby label. The commitment to the land is appreciable, with only 20 hand-selected acres being used to provide fruit for their own brand. Grapes from the remainder (some 90% of their total acreage) are sold to some of the finest wine producers in California.
Appearance:
Attractive and clever die-cut label depicting the outline of the façade of their winery. I just think it would have had more impact if the building on the label had the same color as the actual building, but, splitting hairs . . . wine is gorgeous, nearly black, fiery red edges.
Nose:
The nose is strong and pleasant, with dashingly brilliant aromas of dark berries, root beer, root beer float, laced with blueberry, herb, cigar smoke.
Texture:
Plush, lavish, opulent, swanky, sumptuous feel in the mouth. It is exuberant, yet so smooth and luxurious. Firm acids hold this thing all together in a fine fashion.
Flavors:
I love the cola/root beer float concept I get from the flavors. Feel like a kid drinking an adult beverage. Some spices (nutmeg) a good splotch of vanilla, with the blueberries and a light touch of smoke and cigar tobacco.
Serving Suggestions:
This is a 15-20 year cellar worthy wine for our wine cellars. Drinking great now, I would love this with prime rib or filet mignon.
2018 Mad Hatter
Growing Region Napa Valley, California
Varietal Composition 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Old Vine Petite Sirah, 10% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc & 2% Petit Verdot.
Fermentation French Oak
Alcohol Content 14.8%
Suggested Retail $50.00
WineSellar Club Price $42.29
Broad Strokes:
Tuck Beckstoffer is one of the few Napa Valley stewards who is both a grower and a winemaker. This duality provides him a deep understanding of the winemaking process and leads to a novel approach – one that begins in the dirt and culminates in the bottle – all the while respecting the wine- making traditions of the past and the shared successes and failures among fellow craftsmen and women. Head winemaker Shawn Johnson recently took the reins after working closely alongside consulting wine- maker Philippe Melka. Under Tuck’s direction, Johnson guides the wine- making team and overall process with a seasoned, steadfast hand. “Shawn brings a wealth of experience and a fresh approach to both the winery and the vineyard,” said Tuck. “He shares the same vision that I’ve had since day one: to start with land, ripe with story and possibility.”
Appearance:
Kind of a low-density label, the kind I prefer for readability, and in some circumstances, marketing savvy. The wine is very dark/black at the core, bleeding out to a lovely ruby red along the edge of the glass.
Nose:
Black berry and black plum fruit pop up, along with fine wood notes (like mahogany), baking spices, toasted/roasted nuts, black pepper, anise, and perhaps a bit of tanned leather.
Texture:
This wine is medium to medium full in body. It has an excellent, harmonious feel in your palate, with balanced touches of ripe fruit, cream and acids. It all comes to a completely silky, velvet like texture.
Flavors:
Black fruits, ripe plum, vanilla oak, dark chocolate, anise, and roasted nuts. A touch of dairy, like cream and Greek yogurt, with black pepper and a touch of balsamic as well. An overall joy to have and to drink!
Serving Suggestions:
This is a 10-15 year cellar worthy wine for our wine collections. I think adding Old Vine Petite Sirah to the blend was genius, lifting the wines to unique heights.
2008 Champagne Henriot, Brut Millesime
Growing Region: Premier Cru and Grand Cru Vineyards, Champagne, France
Varietal Composition (Cepage) : 50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay
Vinification (From the winery): Methode Champenoise, Aged on the lees a minimum of 6 years
Dosage: 6 g/l
Suggested Retail: $99
WineSellar Club Price: $89
From the Winery:
As well as 2008 marking an exceptional vintage, it also celebrates the 200-year anniversary of Maison Henriot (1808-2008)!
“This Champagne has the lively character of the first signs of spring! Rich in structure, yet at the same time, yet at the same time mineral and light as a feather in pure Henriot style with real aging potential!” – Laurent Fresnet, Chief Winemaker
95 pts Wine Enthusiast, 93 pts Decanter
Appearance:
Clear, Gold and Shimmering
Nose:
Rich brioche, white flowers, citrus, and stone fruit; peach, nectarine and apricots
Texture:
Tiny, delicate bubbles….signal a period of long aging in the cellars.
Flavors:
Balanced and harmonious with notes of grapefruit, apricot, honey, and fresh citrus unscored by great minerality. The low dosage brings about a harmonious balance.
The finish is long, silky, and refreshing.
Serving Suggestions:
This would be gorgeous served with grilled fish; turbot or
halibut finished with a squeeze of lemon and sea salt!
LAMB BURGERS
Here is a recipe I use at home or while camping/vacationing. On rainy days, you can cook the burgers in the same saucepan you have used throughout recipe. I first shared this in 2004, and thought it might be fun to revisit with any of our red selections for this month.
Ingredients:
- 1 pat of butter
- 2 cups raw mushroom chopped
- 2 tablespoons of cream sherry (optional)
- 1 tablespoon of olive oil
- 1 cup chopped onion
- 2 cloves of garlic, chopped fine
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
- 1 lb. ground lamb, lean if possible
- 1 raw egg
- 1 teaspoon lemon juice (optional)
- 2 tablespoons teriyaki sauce (or soy sauce)
- 1/2 teaspoon pepper
Method:
-
In a saucepan, place the mushrooms, butter (and cream sherry if desired) and thoroughly cook them through. Drain liquid (and keep) setting mushrooms aside to cool. Do not clean saucepan
-
Mix the remainder of the above ingredients (in that same saucepan) over medium heat until the onions are cooked thoroughly. Drain (and keep) liquid and set ingredients aside to cool.
-
Mix the lamb, egg, lemon juice, teriyaki, black pepper, mushrooms and onions together with your hands, forming 3 to 6 balls, depending on which size you like your burgers.
-
Flatten and place on grill, cooking to desired doneness.
-
Grill hamburger buns or bread of your choice on the bar b q at the same time
Notes:
(Option) Cheddar cheese, goat cheese, blue cheese, or any combination thereof makes a wonderful addition to the top of your lamb burger.
(Option) Garnish with tomato, thin onion slice, Dijon mustard, red leaf lettuce.
(Note) The liquid you set aside from the mushrooms and onions can be used to cook vegetable dishes, such as asparagus, mushrooms, peas, etc. Add a pat of butter to the same saucepan you have used throughout recipe to heat them.