Wine Club Newsletter - June 2015
Auction Napa Valley Has a Legendary Day
Here’s an interesting article talking about the Napa valley Wine Auction. It looks like the good times are coming back! G. Parker
© Jason Tinacci | I Am Legend: the Grammy-winning R&B artist serenades the crowd at Auction Napa Valley.
Dinner with the stars, fabulous trips abroad and even some wine – it must be Auction Napa Valley time again.
By W. Blake Gray
John Legend's music is like Napa Valley Cabernet: a lot of people like it, even moreso when it's something they can have but most people cannot.
So when Legend unexpectedly took the stage Saturday at Auction Napa Valley to play his romantic single "All of Me," the small crowd of wealthy people – who all paid a minimum of $1700 to attend – went crazy. And then they spent a near-crazy amount of money.
Napa's annual charity auction brought in $15.8 million over the weekend, actually down from the record $18.7 million it raised in 2014. But the biggest numbers for individual lots dwarfed last year. A single bottle of wine – albeit a 12-liter Balthazar of 2012 Screaming Eagle – raised $500,000. A luxury trip to Europe set an all-time record at $2.4 million. But nine-time Grammy Award winner Legend played the biggest number of all.
Rick Jones, a retired grocery store executive who founded Jones Family Vineyards in Calistoga in 1996, paid $850,000 for Lot No. 31, "A Truly Legendary Evening." The lot, donated by Raymond Vineyards, includes dinner for 30 at the home of Raymond owner Jean-Charles Boisset with a private dinner performance by Legend on Boisset's personal piano.
"Most of my concerts are for big crowds. It's nice to do it for a small group," Legend told Wine Searcher. "When it's a small little thing, I like to do 30 or 40 minutes. I'll pick my set list as I go."
It turns out that Legend, who added to his awards pile this year with an Oscar for the song "Glory" from the film "Selma," is not only a wine lover but a fledgling vintner. He and Raymond Vineyards collaborated to produce 6000 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay under the name "LVE."
"I know that my music and my wine go really well together," Legend said. "Jean-Charles and the Raymond Vineyards team are very good partners. We wanted to make the wine to reflect my personal taste."
The LVE wine will be released in the fall, but the auction attendees got to be the first to taste it.
"We said, the best way to release it is at the auction," Boisset told Wine Searcher. "John's very committed to Napa Valley. We really wanted to make something very exclusive. "
Now $850,000 is a lot of money, and it's the biggest check any one person wrote for one lot Saturday, but it's not the most anyone has ever paid (in 2007, a Staglin Family Vineyard lot went for $1.1m) and it's not even close to the most money raised Saturday by a single lot.
Opus One offered a two-week, first-class visit to 11 top wineries in France, Spain, Italy, Germany and Portugal, along with a 35-year vertical of magnums of Opus One. It sold for $800,000 – to three different people. The $2.4m total is a new record for an amount raised by a single lot.
"We were thrilled that the lot hammered at 800,000," Opus One CEO David Pearson told Wine Searcher. "A couple came up to us about 20 minutes later and asked if we would double it. They had been at $750,000. We said we would check into it. We did have that many magnums left in our cellar, so we said yes. There was an announcement. Then about 30 minutes later, another couple came up and said the same thing. I was really, really happy, but we won't be doing this again in six months. Maybe ever."
Pearson was honorary auction chairman this year, so he got to meet some of the beneficiaries of the big bucks. Auction Napa Valley has periodically taken criticism for being a playground for the 1 percent, but it has raised $145 million for Napa County charities since the first auction in 1981.
"I talked with a resource center in American Canyon," Pearson said. "A woman related to me that, the day after the earthquake last year, she received a quick check for $5000 from the [Napa Valley] Vintners. She said she could keep her doors open, could give out plates of food. She could give out the basic essentials to people who needed them. The impact of the auction is so great on the community. I hope the generosity outshines the idea that it's a bunch of rich people having a party."
That said, what a party! The 850 people in the tent, guests and hosts alike, ate terrific food – a lavender-infused, palate-cleansing drink from Morimoto Napa was a hit – drank special bottles of wine that the vintners had bought (Shafer Vineyards had older magnums of its Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon), and enjoyed perfect weather at beautiful Meadowood.
"A lot of times, I do the greetings when people arrive," Doug Shafer told Wine Searcher. "People were happy to be here. The sun's out, let's spend some money for a great cause."
2012 Merlot “The Revivalist,” Hickenbotham
Growing Region: Clarendon Vineyard, McLaren Vale,
Varietal Blend: 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation: 18 Months French Oak
Alcohol Content: 14.5%
Suggested Retail: $75.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $67.49
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: “The Hickinbotham Clarendon Vineyard covers a steep cut of country from the ridgetops above the village of Clarendon to the Onkaparinga River in the gorge below. Since its establishment in 1971, the Hickinbotham vineyard has become a part of Australia’s wine heritage, supplying fruit to produce many of Australia’s greatest wines. Breathing new life into this historic vineyard, winemakers Charlie Seppelt and Chris Carpenter have commenced a new era of Hickinbotham’s prestigious legacy, building upon and honoring the vineyard’s acclaimed record.”
The grapes were sourced from the same vineyard that makes one of the most expensive wines in the world, Grange Hermitage. Only 235 cases were produced, and the wine is not widely distributed. 93 point rating in Cellar Tracker.
Appearance:
Great-looking tall and thin bottle. I like the logo, the font type, and the overall design of it. The wine is nearly black and opaque at the core, and dark magenta out to the rim.
Nose:
The nose is fabulous, reserved and sophisticated at first, then becoming exotic with its oak nuances, blue and black fruits, walnuts and pecans.
Texture:
The texture rules here. Yes, Merlot can be absolutely wonderful. Medium in body, the silken wine glides through the palate seamlessly. As it enters and stays in my mouth, it reminds me of the great Bordeaux wine, Chateau Margaux.
Flavors:
Very dark berry fruit, chocolate, wood, roasted nuts, white pepper, mushrooms, black tea. Elegant and rich, with ripe blueberry fruit. It’s just awesome folks. My staff is coming in to the office for more tastes and going crazy!
Serving Suggestions:
Though seamless in texture, and ready to be consumed at the table, the wine has many years of age left. I would predict at least over the next 15 years or so, it is the BOMB!
2013 Pugilist Cabernet Sauvignon
Growing Region: StarLane Vineyard, Happy Canyon, Santa Barbara, California
Varietal Blend: 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot
Fermentation: 12 Months French Oak
Alcohol Content: 14.1%
Suggested Retail: $32.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $22.49
Broad Strokes:
Pugilist Winery’s 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon comes from the famed StarLane Vineyard in the Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara. This new AVA was established in 2009, and is distinguished from the Santa Ynez Valley in that it is located farther east in a much warmer climate that’s well suited to Bordeaux-style varietals. The StarLane Vineyard is one of the most renowned in this region, managed by the Dierberg family who crafts superb wines that are consistently awarded and highly rated.
Pugilist: Boxer, fighter, combatant. Co-creator, friend and associate Greg Martellotto is just that, a fighter who loves the wine industry. We are proud to be associated with this project.
Appearance:
I wish the boxers were larger on the label, it’s such a neat concept and theme. The wine is colored to a dark skin of a cherry. Very viscous, the wine clings very well to the bowl.
Nose:
A nice touch of wood overlays deep cherry and dark Cabernet Sauvignon fruit. Mahogany, cherry compote, some floral notes, especially lavender, come forth. Yeasty bread dough, nutmeg, orange tea.
Texture:
Medium full in the mouth, the wine is smooth and pleasing to the senses. Some graininess to it, crisp, drying tannins meld well with the fine acids on the finish.
Flavors:
Perfectly ripe plum, at its highest peak of ripeness, is glorious on the entry. Enjoy vanilla, spice (cinnamon), mahogany, hazelnuts, vanilla, some earthiness, a dollop of maple syrup. And the finish? Bittersweet chocolate!
Serving Suggestions:
The wine can be consumed now, and is delicious with steaks, lamb and spicy pasta dishes. You can lay it down for up to ten years.
2014 Mattina Fiore, Albariño, Paragon Vineyards
Growing Region: Edna Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Albarino
Fermentation: 20% Neutral Oak, 80% Stainless Steel
Alcohol Content: 13.8%
Suggested Retail: $24.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $21.59
Broad Strokes:
Recently, in our Wonderful World of Wine newsletter, I wrote about the Garagiste tasting I went to in Solvang in April. The Mattina Fiore wines I bought are a direct result of that event. We were struck by their whole lineup, especially this Albariño. These wines are exclusive to you, as their production is so small they don’t have distribution in San Diego. I am certain you will enjoy this Albariño, a white wine varietal who is mainly grown in Spain. Only 348 cases were produced.
Appearance:
The Mattina Fiore wines that are meant to cellar for long periods are finished off with plastic capsules, which do have a pull tag for easier opening. The packaging is elaborate and ornate, with an oversized clear bottle, which you may know is my favorite for white wine. The wine has a nice metallic gold/silver hue, and glistens in the light.
Nose:
Fabulous floral nose of honeysuckle, citrus blossom, peach, apricot, ginger, cardamom, stone fruits and roasted almonds. The nose will continue to evolve over the next couple years, as I sense a few years in the bottle will do this wine very well.
Texture:
Medium-weight (in body) with the verve of lively, youthful acid (it is a 2014 by the way). I had the wine after it was opened 48 hours, and it was holding firm and steady, a beacon for aging.
Flavors:
The wine has both creamy and edgy flavors, most likely due to its youth. Meyer lemon, stone fruits, peach, apricot, flan, vanilla, fig, honey, grapefruit, tangerine and mineral components are an intertwined delight. Long finish is crisp and clean, leaving a lasting impression and making you come back for more.
Serving Suggestions:
This will be wonderful with our summer BBQs. In addition to the attributes I stated above, it has a refreshing feel to it.
2011 Wild Hog Pinot Noir, Fort Ross-Seaview
Growing Region: Sonoma County, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: 20% New French Oak
Alcohol Content: 14%
Suggested Retail: $36.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $35.99
Broad Strokes:
From The Winery: Wild Hog Vineyard is a small family-owned and operated winery and vineyard in the hills between Cazadero and Fort Ross on the Sonoma Coast. The owners, Daniel and Marion Schoenfeld, have transformed the rugged mountain property into a beautiful lush garden resplendent with vineyard, orchard, vegetable beds, and fragrant flowers. Wild Hog Vineyard is at the headwaters of Wild Hog Creek (from which the winery derives its name) 45 minutes west of the small town of Cazadero. At 1400 feet elevation and 5 miles from the Ocean east of Fort Ross, the vineyard avoids most of the summer fog. The climate of the coastal range, in conjunction with our farming practices, helps to produce intense flavorful grapes. The Estate Pinot Noir has a characteristic cherry-berry fruitiness with intense flavors and a big structure. Production of this Pinot Noir is limited, making it a hard to find wine.
Appearance:
Kind of a cool label and theme. I really like the wild hog image on the bottle. The wine has an even hue of brick-like red. It is viscous, clinging to the glass, and the wine is cloudy because it is not fined or filtered.
Nose:
A complicated set of aromatics waft above the glass: red fruits, cherries, sweet oak, prune, stewed sweet rhubarb, forest floor . . . it’s quite inviting, with good intensity.
Texture:
Medium weight, but lasting very long in the mouth. The viscosity leaves a nice coat of Pinot Noir essence, kind of creamy, followed by a crisp cranberry/pomegranate acid that makes the mouth water a bit.
Flavors:
Good cherry fruit, herbs and dark earth, oak, spice, licorice, cherry cola/Dr. Pepper, maple syrup, dried meat, creamy chocolate, prune, cranberry, and then back to the excellent cherry fruit that worthwhile Pinot Noir can exude.
Serving Suggestions:
The wine is growing in intensity from a couple years ago in the bottle. Even though it is smooth and doesn’t display overt tannic structure, it has a few years on it.
Green Peppercorn Sauce
Serves four (side dish)
One of my favorite all-time sauces happens to be a French Classic. Here’s how to make it with a flambé flair.
Ingredients
- 1 tablespoon vegetable or canola oil
- 2 tablespoons clarified butter
- 2 filet steaks
- 1 Tablespoon of butter
- 2 large shallots, finely chopped
- 2 teaspoons green and pink peppercorns, crushed
- 2/3 cup of brandy
- 2/3 cup red wine
- 1 cup good-quality beef or chicken stock
- 3 tablespoons of whole cream
Method
- Season the steaks and cook to your liking. Place in oven on very low heat to keep them warm without further cooking them.
- Heat a frying pan over medium heat, then pour in the oil and the clarified butter.
- Fry the shallots and peppercorns for 5 minutes until the shallots have softened.
- Remove shallots and peppercorns from the pan and heat the empty pan to high.
- Pour the brandy into the pan and light with a match, standing as far back as you can so as not to burn yourself. It will flame up high, and then gradually die out.
- Pour the wine and peppercorns and shallots back into the pan and boil rapidly until reduced by half. This will take about 5 minutes.
- Add the stock and reduce again, this time by two-thirds.
- Stir the cream in to the sauce and allow it to thicken slightly.
- Reduce heat to zero on burner.
- Add the tablespoon of butter and swirl it in to amalgamate the sauce.
- Remove steaks from warming oven.
- Pour sauce over steaks and serve.