Wine Club Newsletter - December 2011
The Central Coast and Their Rhone Varietals
This month we are featuring two wines that have their roots based in the Rhone Varietals of France. Of course, this is not the WineSellar Club’s first venture into California Rhone style wines, as we anticipate many more to come through the years.
At this point, I thought it might be interesting to read a little history on the Central Coast with information about what these wines are and where is California going with them.
BACK in the late 1980's, when California was otherwise settling into a two-tone Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay funk, a small group of winemakers were bucking the trend. They sought inspiration not from Bordeaux and Burgundy, as so many others had, but from the intense, spicy wines of the Rhone Valley, the home of Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie and Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Although the winemakers were collectively called the Rhone Rangers, they didn't necessarily work together or with specific goals in mind. What linked them was a love of the Rhone wines and the suspicion that the California climate and soil, or at least the areas where they were working, had more in common with the Rhone Valley than with Pauillac or Pommard. Among these early experimentalists were producers like Joseph Phelps, Bonny Doon, Edmunds St. John and Qupé.
It's too simple, of course, to lump all Rhone wines together. Among Rhone reds, the wines of the northern Rhone, like Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie, are made almost entirely of the syrah grape. On the other hand, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, from the southern Rhone, and Côtes-du-Rhônes are blended wines. More than a dozen grapes can legally be included in the Châteauneuf mix, but the most important are Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah.
The American producers were drawn to both Rhone styles, but perhaps inevitably syrah has become the big hit among Rhone-style wines, and not necessarily because the grape makes better wines. John Alban of Alban Vineyards, now probably the most influential of the American Rhone producers, confides that Americans understand single-grape wines better than blends, given their recent history of buying cabernet, merlot and chardonnay. So Mr. Alban, for one, chooses not to make a Châteauneuf-style blend. His Syrahs, incidentally, are superb.
Let’s look at a recent history of the Central Coast, to see how our WineSellar Club wines came to be.
In the 1980’s, large-scale wineries recognized the area’s unique yet very diverse terroir. The 614,000-acre Paso Robles American Viticultural Appellation (AVA) and 6,400-acre York Mountain AVA were established in 1983. Large corporate vineyards and wineries continued to be established in Paso Robles in the 1980s as growers recognized the favorable topography and generous climate allowed them to grow high-quality wine grapes at higher yield levels than was possible in other appellations.
Rhone varietals did not form an important part of Paso Robles’ identity until 1989. That year, the Perrin family (of the Rhone Valley’s Château de Beâucastel, revered producer of Châteauneuf-du-Pape) and their American importer Robert Haas established their international joint venture, Tablas Creek Vineyard in the limestone hills of the Adelaida region northwest of town. With 80 acres planted to the traditional varieties of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Tablas Creek imported exclusive clonal material from the Rhone Valley, and made those clones available to other interested growers around the state.
As a result, in addition to being a top producer of premium Rhone wines, Tablas Creek has evolved into a full-fledged vine nursery supplying cuttings of Rhone varietals to wineries all over California.
Soon after these 1989 events, Paso Robles saw an explosion of plantings of Rhone varieties. Now, in addition to the first Syrah plantings in California, it also has the largest acreage of Syrah, Viognier and Rousanne. Acres planted under Rhone varieties jumped from fewer than 100 acres in 1994 to more than 2,000 in 2005. During that time, at least 10 wineries focusing on Rhone varieties were established.
Feeding the trend has been the Paso Robles-based Hospice du Rhone, the largest celebration of Rhone wines in the world attended each year by 3,000 enthusiasts and an A-list of Rhone producers from all over the world.
From the early 1990s, Paso Robles wines have proven consistent gold medal winners and have been featured regularly in the top rankings of national and international wine reviews. A milestone in the worldwide recognition of Paso Robles Wine Country as a premier wine region came in 1997 when Justin Vineyards & Winery’s Bordeaux-style Isosceles was named one of the top 10 wines in the world by the Wine Spectator.
Then in the decade of 2000, the number of wineries in Paso Robles Wine Country exploded, mostly due to an influx of boutique and small family owned vineyards and wineries. The appellation’s burgeoning reputation has also seduced a number of winemakers from France, Australia, South Africa and Switzerland eager to find New World applications for their wine-making skills.
The result is that many young boutique wineries are quickly gaining recognition and a following for their innovative and proprietary Paso Robles blends of Bordeaux, Rhone and Zinfandel varietals. While the number of small wineries has grown, several mid to larger size operations have been building a hospitality focus for their showcase wineries.
The most influential members of the wine press urge their readers to discover the wines from Paso Robles. Stephen Tanzer of International Wine Cellar asserts that “Paso Robles in particular is in the midst of a grape growing boom, led by a handful of young winemakers who are crafting rich and satisfying wines from Rhone Valley varieties.”
Wine Advocate, Robert M. Parker, Jr. agrees: “there is no question that a decade from now, the top viticultural areas of Santa Barbara, Santa Rita Hills and the limestone hillsides west of Paso Robles will be as well-known as the glamorous vineyards of Napa Valley.”
Some text modified from Mondo Cellars & Eric Asimov (NY Times)
2010 Opolo Vineyards, Viognier (December, 2011 - The WineSellar Club)
Growing Region: Central Coast, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Viognier
Fermentation: Barrel Fermentation
Suggested Retail: $22.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $17.99
Broad Strokes:
The Viognier (pronounced vee-oh-NYAY) grape is thought to be one of the very oldest grapes still being grown and vinified. There is evidence that the Roman legions under the command of Probus brought it with them and began planting it in Southern France around 280A.D.
With the very best in fruit available to them, Opolo has chosen an interesting path to wine making. Curiously, Opolo does not employ a wine maker as such. It’s a group effort. Everyone, from owners to “cellar rats” have a say in the wine production. The belief at Opolo is that this approach makes for consumer-friendly wines that appeal to many people. There is no dependency on one person’s palate although Rick Quinn and Dave Nichols, co-owners, have the final vote.
Appearance:
Good looking package, with the black label and gold “Opolo”. They have a nice blurb on the back label about the wine, which I think is a nice touch. The wine is crystal clear, glittering diamond-like with brilliant gold and corn hues. It is a very viscous liquid, clinging to the sides of the glass.
Nose:
The enveloping fragrance of this wine makes it a big winner for me. Buttered popcorn comes in early, with peach, apricot, tropical fruits and Asian spices. Enticing nose, intense and rich, yet balanced, intriguing, as it changes every minute.
Texture:
Very full bodied, the alcohol is 14.3%. I hardly noticed any heat. The balance is quite good, and the rich intensity gives an excellent feel in the mouth, finishing with clean fruit. Good lasting impression on the finish.
Flavor:
The flavor profile just keeps coming at you. The tropical fruits are wonderful in here, papaya and pineapple, competing with the peach and apricot notes. A juicy Honey-Dew melon awaits you on the finish. I love that!
Serving Options:
Great with spicy, smoked or grilled foods or with ripe cheeses. Refreshing and fruity, yet complex and interesting, this is definitely a crowd pleaser.
2008 Renwood Zinfandel, Old Vine (December, 2011 - The WineSellar Club; The Two Rouge Club)
Growing Region: Amador County, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Zinfandel
Fermentation: Barrel Fermented, French & American
Suggested Retail: $20.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $13.99
Broad Strokes:
I have been enjoying Renwood wines for nearly 15 years now. It is fabulous to see you can get a very good Zinfandel for under $15 a bottle. How often does that happen? The average age of the vines used for this wine is 45 years old.
Renwood is located in the Shenandoah Valley, which is between San Francisco and Lake Tahoe. Beautiful country, and noteworthy picnicking on the grounds of the estate.
Appearance:
I like the black bottle look with the almost neon red lines and the white-silver accents. It is a really good-looking package. The wine is dark at the core, and develops a nice dark cherry skin hue as it stretches to the rim of the glass. Clear at the edge, and this is wine also thick with viscosity, draping slowly down the bowl.
Nose:
Fresh cut wood was the nose when first opened. Bit by bit, some 30 minutes later, the fruit overtakes the wood nuances, and provides a well-integrated dose of dark fruits, spices, chocolate and vanilla oak. Some earth and underbrush are evident as well, and lovely.
Texture:
Full to medium full bodied, it has a smooth and pleasant entry that is both soft and expansive. To my tastes, the “old vines” distinctive characteristics come out in this wine: intense fruit, yet soft, complex, and smooth in the palate. You may notice a bit of the 15.5% alcohol, but hey, it’s a Zinfandel from Amador County, it’s supposed to be like that!
Flavor:
Dark berry and focused black cherry fruit are joyful and delicious. From the nose, the spices, dark fruits, chocolate and vanilla oak all came though quite nicely, as did the earth notes of underbrush and fresh herbs.
Serving Options:
This is a drink now wine, and at the price, why wait. Great for quaffing before, during or after grilling dinner, or as a warm up to the main course with nuts and cheese.
2008 Westerly, Cote Blonde, Happy Canyon (December, 2011 - The Two Rouge Club; Gary Parker Collection)
Growing Region: Santa Ynez Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 87% Syrah, 13% Viognier
Fermentation: 22 Months French Oak, 25% New
Suggested Retail: $42.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $37.99
Broad Strokes:
This is REALLY right up my alley. First of all, I love the fact they made such a huge commitment to adding 13% Viognier, a white wine grape, to the cuvee. This is how the finest Cote-Roties in France are made in the Rhone Valley. The Viognier typically adds flower and fruit aromatics, and softens the rigidity of the Syrah grape. Only 165 cases were produced. This is so exciting!
Appearance:
If you only produce 165 cases, you don’t need an attention getting, eye popping, “buy me off the shelf” package, especially if your product is this good. Using the name “Cote Blonde” will throw all those who are not in the know about the vineyard hillsides in the Northern Rhone, but thankfully for the consumer, they explain what that’s about on the back label.
Nose:
Smoked Bacon. I kid you not, when I first opened it and whiffed on it, it was smoky, morning campfire bacon. Cool! This dissipates (sadly) after about 15 minutes, and then the bacon becomes another member of the complex nuances this wine offers to the overall olfactory sensations. Add dark fruits, hot stone (gravel), flowers, herbs and black tea to those.
Texture:
Although the flavor is full in the mouth, the weight of the wine is a great deal lighter because of the percentage of Viognier added to it. It’s kind of strange because it is not what we expect from our California wines, but this is exactly how they come out in France. The relative delicate texture versus the flavor impact is a conundrum for us, but I like it!
Flavor:
I’m tasting all things from the nose, once again. The smoked bacon is there for sure, which is fab. So are the hot stones / gravel thing as well as the herbs and black tea. It is definitely complex, and kept me going back for more discovering. Did I say I love it?
Serving Options:
I don’t know exactly what to say about aging this wine. Coming from the Rhone Valley, it would be good for 20-30 years. But a new venture in California without a track record is hard to say. I think I would take a 6-12 bottles and drink three of them next year to gauge it. Overall, I think we have 5-8 years in our cellar for this one.
2007 Cumbre Pinot Noir, Barrel 31 (December, 2011 - Gary Parker Collection)
Growing Region: Santa Cruz Mountains, Ca.
Varietal Blend: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: Barrel Fermented
Suggested Retail: $39.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $33.99
Broad Strokes:
92 Point rating, plus Gold & Silver Medal winner, this is an outrageously fabulous Pinot Noir for the money. Retailing for $39 at the winery, it’s like getting an additional bottle of white wine fro free! A $65 value for $35. Ah yes, great to be in the WineSellar Club. Interesting story line, I recognized certain characteristics of this wine and harkened back to some Pinot Noirs I had in the mid 1980’s from Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyards. I told my staff how the style and tastes were similar, and low and behold, this wine came from the very same vineyards as Ken Burnaps’ wines that I liked so much back in the day.
Appearance:
Though I am not a big fan of multiple fonts, this label pulls it off very nicely. I really like the image of the clouds and mountains from the area, the colors and overall scheme of the label and the capsule. The bottle is thick and heavy, with a deep punt, offering an image of solid, well-crafted wine in a particular class of excellence. The wine is darker than most Pinot Noirs, and sticks to the edge of the glass like 40 weight oil. When you pour the wine in the glass, it has a youthful, grapey colored bubbling, suggesting still more years of aging ahead of it.
Nose:
Can we say “Beguiling”? I can! Spicy and rich deep cherry fruit comes forward very nicely. I loved the earthy, dark berry underbrush aromatics as well. See if you can pick up some prune fruit, rosemary, evergreen or eucalyptus, rosemary and a hint of smoke. Very nice!
Texture:
The wine is a little rambunctious at first, still showing some youthful acids and tannins, even though it is four years from the vintage. From its early brashness, it settles into becoming the lady that good Pinot Noir is all about: elegance, length, soft and gentle to the mouth with a long pleasing finish. Thank you Ma’am.
Flavor:
Flavors from the nose mostly, with some additional characteristics. Meaty, like a Filet Mignon was the first thing I noticed. The fruits were definitively cherry, both fresh and slightly stewed, with a note of rosemary, strawberry and hint of bitter chocolate. Deep, dark berry, chocolate, cookie dough also chimed in. Very nice flavor profile overall.
Serving Options:
You can either cellar or drink this wine today. I like it today and 2-4 years from now. It would be an EXCELLENT wine to have at your holiday meal. It will hold up to most anything you put on the table for side dishes, and pair very well with the gravy and dark meat of the turkey.
Chestnut Fennel Soup
This is a superb holiday recipe. It provides a warming, homey feel and makes the meal seem more elaborate and special. It was a very popular dish at Laurel as well as The WineSellar & Brasserie.
This is great with the 2010 Opolo Viognier.
Ingredients:
- 2 Tablespoons of butter
- ½ cup thinly sliced onion
- 2 cups chestnuts, roasted and shells removed
- ¾ cup diced fennel
- ½ cup thinly sliced peeled celery
- 3 bay leaves
- ¾ cup orange juice
- 4½ cups chicken stock
- 2 cups seasonal wild mushrooms (black trumpet, porcini, etc.), cleaned and cooked
- Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste
Method:
- Heat the butter in a non-reactive 2-quart stock pot over medium heat.
- Add the onions with a pinch of salt, and "sweat" until the onions are transparent.
- Add the chestnuts, fennel, celery, and bay leaves.
- Cook for about 3 minutes, stirring occasionally and making sure not to burn them.
- Add the orange juice and raise heat to high.
- Reduce the liquid by three quarters.
- Add the chicken stock and reduce to a simmer.
- Cook for 30 minutes.
- Remove from the heat and puree in a food processor or blender.
- Pass through a china cap, season with salt and pepper to taste, and keep warm.
- To serve, heat the wild mushrooms and divide between 6 warm soup plates.
- Ladle the soup over the mushrooms, and serve immediately.
(The WineSellar & Brasserie)