Wine Club Newsletter - June 2011
A Short Perspective On Today’s Wine World
Last month I celebrated the yet another birthday with a “zero” at the end of it. I really didn’t want to make a fuss over it, as I have been busy with work and travel around the date. But alas, the day was not to go without some kind of mark, so a commemorative event was held here at The WineSellar & Brasserie for eighty of my closest friends. Really. I love them all.
90% of these people I have met somewhere along the wine and food trail, and have shared many wines together, laughs, travels and life experiences I will cherish forever.
So why do I tell you this? Between the party, the newly discovered Anti-Wine wine company, and recently reading a short wine-related story written decades ago by a noted columnist, I have had cause to make a general reflection on Today’s world of wine.
The young team behind our (Anti-) white wine in The WineSellar Club this month has a very interesting take on positions and attitudes in today’s wine market, especially dealing with the producers, wine makers, distributors, the sales people, and perhaps, without them directly knowing it (I believe) the consumer. They are looking to eschew traditional winemaking practices to the level of inter mixing vintages, varietals, sense of origin, etc. to whatever they feel will make the best wines.
I think these people are bright and right. I for sure know one of them is, as he used to work here a few years back, Josh McFadden. Although young and relatively new to the industry, he was already formulating interesting ideas and perspectives for marketing and labeling wines. Without asking, I am sure he did the label on the Anti-wine, it has his style etched all over it.
Anyway, I am confident what this group is doing is good for the wine industry. The industry needs a little something different and innovative, a new push and presentation to feed into today’s world of instant communication, and to make wine more approachable to the general public. You should check out the web site and read the winemakers manifesto. http://www.antiwine.com/anti-manifesto.pdf. It’s bold, energetic, and a first step in calling attention to our confines of the market, and how it relies on old world leanings to sell a product.
The wine industry has been caught up with a mass marketing campaign. It has seen large Distilled Beverage companies buying out successful wineries, and then converting those businesses from “boutique” status to planning how to make more bottles and market the wines. This versus focusing on producing individual, soulful, heartfelt products in limited quantities. The consumer loses.
To contrast this new approach to wines, one of my birthday presents was a book of “great writers on good times” called “Drinking, Smoking and Screwing”. (Wonder how I got that!). It is a series of short stories about said title. Being my age, I immediately skipped the screwing stories (and I don’t smoke) to read the 3 pager by now deceased columnist Art Buchwald, called “Some Heady Phrases on Wine”, written in 1954.
Buchwald was talking about the “airs” people should put on around wine, and how communications between dinner guests, hosts, and sommeliers were restricted and stuffy. Here are some of Buchwald’s treasures, reflecting those days:
- “How sad it is it didn’t come from noble soil, because I am sure it would have taken on a prestige of its own”.
- “It’s provocative for sure, but I wouldn’t put it up against a Haut Brion”.
- "Never say 'I like a Margaux' It's much better to reminisce. 'I remember a Margaux I once had at the Grand Vefour in forty-six. What a lunch that was!"
- “Never say nineteen forty-six, use only the last two numbers of the vintage”.
To me, this is not what enjoying wine is all about. It’s so aristocratic! It was missing out on the very fun of wine, the stories, memories, reflections, the appreciation of what nature and man has brought to our table. These times and experiences should be appreciated with any bottle of wine, with anybody.
Looking back to the birthday party group, myself included, I realized our generation did not grow up with wine at the dinner table. It was a generally misunderstood beverage back then, for in the days of our youth, it was basically cheap California jug wine and French wines that held the shelves. Not many understood the French, and the jug wines were not inspiring us to drink and discuss.
We had to want to learn about wine. There was really no comprehensive reference material on California wine in our day, no Internet of course, so you had to have a passion for it to feed our hungry questions. And while we learning it, so were the California wineries (and now the rest of the United States) learning how to make it. They too, had to fight for knowledge to fulfill their passions. We sort of grew up together, experimenting as we went.
This new generation has benefitted by the generations proceeding them by being given a solid thirty years of intensely researched wine making and vineyard management, hundreds of thousands of acres in planted vineyards, thousands of new wineries, and tens of thousands more selection for the table.
Today, many of our youngest wine drinkers do not know what life was like without the Internet, a camcorder or a cell phone. The ability to change how people think of wine through today’s communications is stronger that it ever has been, and will continue to become an effective ally for wine drinking.
For my colleagues young and old, let’s keep the wine torch flame going. Let’s continue to break down barriers, the pomp and circumstance, and the mystery of wine for everybody we possibly can. I want others to share the joys and satisfaction I have had in my life with wine.
Let’s make it a fun, life enhancing part of everyone’s everyday lives.
Field Recordings, Anti-White
Growing Region: California
Varietal Blend: 76% Gewurztraminer, 16% Malvasia Bianca, 8% Marsanne
Fermentation: Yes, they did that
Suggested Retail: $18.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $14.39
Broad Strokes:
No vintage? No Appellation? Minimal production information? This is the brain-child of a group of youngish, energetic, enthusiastic, knowledgeable, smart people who are hotly passionate about wine, and want to declare new boundaries. A direct quote from the team:
“Anti- is a project undertaken to reject the prevailing “wisdom” of the wine industry; to produce remarkable blends by any means necessary. They are made to drink upon release to provide tangible value and to please complex palates. Most important, they are meant to be judged by the quality of their parts, free from any dictates of tradition”.
Check out the winemaker “J. B. Lamarck” manifesto starting at anti-wine.com. It is a fun and interesting approach regarding yesterdays and today’s wine world. Coincidently, this was my theme for this months WOW main story.
Appearance:
Upon being handed the bottle for submission to the WineSellar Club, I told wine buyer Paris Driggers the label looked very much like something our old friend/employee would have a hand in, Josh McFadden. Josh jumps out of the norm with design and thoughts, and is a creative thinker. Anyway, the wine has a deep yellow/golden hue, with a tinge of green. Is not perfectly clear, which is very fine for some wines.
Nose:
The nice Gewurztraminer fragrance jumps out, seemingly too fruity at first. The nose quickly levels out with a nice focus of fruit and a hint of lime. As it stayed open, I picked up some cool white flower (honeysuckle, jasmine), with sage, honey, and roasted hazelnut.
Texture:
There is a good solid fruit feel that is rich, unctuous, and mouth filling. A good line of citric (lime) acid keeps it edgy and in harmony. It feels very clean and refreshing, and keeps the lips smacking for more. The blend makes great sense
Flavor:
Fresh peach and apricot are the fore fruit flavors, and complexity mounts as the wine opens up. Flower petal-perfumed-Gewurztraminer fruit is quite attractive. Forgive me “J. B.” as I ramble wine speak, but I can’t anti-review it now, can I? Here’s more: Buttery brown sage, honey, and a hint of vanilla ice cream, which of course is very cool. The more I drink, the more I like.
Serving Options:
This is an incredible summer sipper, lovely on its own, and would do well with many dishes: Sushi, sashimi, and spicy white fish dishes come to mind. Drink now, let it open up so the acid comes forward to balance the fruit intensity. Great Anti-Job, people!
2007 Germano Angelo Nebbiolo, Langhe
Growing Region: Piemonte, Italy
Varietal Blend: 100% Nebbiolo
Fermentation: 100% 15 Months in Oak
Suggested Retail: $25.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $19.99
Broad Strokes:
The Germano Angelo winery has been making wine since 1908, and in its current iteration, has a young Davide Germano at the wine making helm. The long family history of producing quality Barolo and Nebbiolo has garnered them a great deal of respect throughout their community and to those in know in our wine world.
Appearance:
I love the appearance, as it is definitively Italian with the Nominazione di Origine de Controllata sticker on the neck of the bottle. The label features the classic drawing of the winery, which is so European. The wine is clear and you can see through the center to the bottom of the glass. It’s kind of a medium garnet, and very clear around the edges.
Nose:
Some fresh and dried fruits are on the nose, most noticeably cherry, raspberry, and a bit of cranberry. It is quite attractive, not full or overpowering, but has a very fine presence and balance to it. You can get the wood fragrances if you concentrate, which are fine and well integrated.
Texture:
The texture changes dramatically with food. On its own, it starts a little acidic, and medium in weight. After a few minutes, it develops amore (sic) rounded mouth-feel that is quite pleasing. With food, it evens out and the fine thread of acid foils perfectly. It has a very long, medium weight finish that provides a nice bit of crisp acid that makes your mouth water. It’s hard to believe it has an alcohol content somewhere near 14%, as generally high alcohol means big fruit.
Flavor:
Very subtle fruit and earth flavors glide across your palate. Red fruits of raspberry and strawberry are checked up by the firm but balanced acidity. The dried fruits also play in the game, as does some soil and earth notes. It all becomes super smooth, elegant and quite charming when you team it up with a food. The finish is elegant and stays with you.
Serving Options:
With its elegance and medium bodied feel, I would keep the foods to a moderate and not overpowering level of intensity. Mild pastas with fresh tomato sauces, hint of garlic and herbs would be divine. The wine will improve for another year or two in the bottle, but is ready to enjoy now.
2009 Grey Stack, Pinot Noir, Bennett Valley Cuvee
Growing Region: Bennett Valley, Santa Rosa, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: 50% New French Oak, 10-11 Months
Suggested Retail: $33.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $26.99
Broad Strokes:
Bennett Valley Appellation is located toward the southern end of Sonoma Valley, and was christened as its own appellation in 2003. Many of the vineyards are 500-600 feet above sea level, have volcanic solids and cool climate conditions. This is great for Pinot Noir. Winemaker Pat Sullivan has a resume to include Rudd, Peter Michael, Lewis Cellars & Paul Hobbs. Only 175 cases of this gem were produced.
Appearance:
Nice looking package, not too flashy, not too much color or visual impact. Bottle is nicely sized, deep punt. I like it. The wine is has hues of red, dark grey, and reddish brick. It is not totally clear, which means limited fining or filtering, always good for more fruit essence and individuality. It clings to the glass beautifully, and reflects light really well.
Nose:
Very spicy, which is said to be the hallmark of Bennett Valley Pinot Noirs. It is very subtle, but continues to exhibit very nice Pinot Noir fruit, red fruits, with a note of smoke, leather and damp earth. Early on I detected a red grapefruit fragrance, but that went away, seemingly to turn into a brown leaf or old forest timber whiffs.
Texture:
Ahhh, fine Pinot Noir texture! We have a very silken and soft entry, with a rich viscosity that speaks to me before I even get to the fruit. The fruit is medium in body, but very subtle in the mouth. It takes a little while for the fruit to catch up, but it very much does, and leaves an even, balanced, lasting impression in the mouth. A bit of tannin acid awakens you.
Flavor:
Red fruits of raspberry, plum and strawberry are well integrated into this fine Pinot Noir. There are some soil and earth notes, along with smoke, mulberry, anise, wood and underbrush. It’s like a ballerina, delicate, light on its feet, dancing around in your mouth, charming you with its moves, entertaining you with its presence. I need to go get my Tutu.
Serving Options:
This is so delicate and textural, I would want something very different to serve with this. Very lightly poached or Sous vide salmon with dill or anise would be killer. Not to be aged or put away in the cellar, this is made for early consumption.
2007 Parlay “The Bookmaker” Red
Growing Region: California
Varietal Blend: 70% Cab Sauv, 10% Petite Syrah, 10% Petite Verdot, 10% Syrah
Fermentation: 100% French Oak (30% New)
Suggested Retail: $19.99
WineSellar Club Price: $17.99
Broad Strokes:
Parlay is Ramian Estate’s answer to Orin Swift’s “The Prisoner”. Owner/winemaker, Brian Graham has fashioned a knock out with his newest 2009 release. This wine is made at the same facility as Prisoner also. We are excited to be the first and only wine shop in Southern California with this wine.
Appearance:
This a friendly looking bottle. It has an “Old West” feel to it, designed to look like an old gambling ticket with parlay odds and teaser odds. The label actually browns at the edges to give an antique look. The bottle is thick with broad shoulders and a deep punt. One could argue that the wine is perfect for the package. It is a thick hearty, full-bodied wine with a blue-black hue with crimson edges. This high viscosity wine moves slowly and coats the glass.
Nose:
WOW! Notes of bubble gum and cotton candy, smoke, roasted meats, vanilla almost as if you are walking through a carnival. As the wine settles a bit, more “subtle” nuances present themselves. Currants, licorice, toast from the oak, black cherry… This is certainly what one would describe as an “inviting” nose.Texture: Thick and rich on the palate. Nothing sharp, no bite, just fat and mouth filling ripe fruit. After being opened for an hour, the wine develops a silky quality. Let’s face it, the wine IS young. A year in the bottle or leaving it open will bring great results. The texture is so utterly agreeable that you want to share it. And you should at this price. Let all ALL your friends know that you have discovered the next hot wine.
Flavor:
Explosively rich flavors of blackberry, licorice and the cotton candy component described in the nose. So seductive! Black cherry, chocolate, boysenberry jam, raspberry liquor…
Serving Options:
If you enjoy Napa wines, this is your ultimate barbeque wine for summer 2011. It’s so rich, it will stand up to virtually every kind of grilled meat. Because of the fruit forward nature of this wine, you can throw some spiced meats and sausage against it. All that said, the wine is perfectly suitable as a cocktail wine.
2007 Pont de Chevalier
Growing Region: Napa Valley, Ca.
Varietal Blend: Bordeaux Varietals, undisclosed %’s
Fermentation: 100% French Oak for 23 Months in Oak
Suggested Retail: $95.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $89.99
Broad Strokes:
This is one of those wines THAT MAKES A HUGE STATEMENT. It makes a huge statement of quality, character, class, origin and pedigree. The vines are neighbor to Peter Michael, and come from varying soil types, mostly volcanic and iron rich alluvial. The winemaker, Douglas Danielak, has put together a raging, outstanding example of just how great a wine can be.
And, fortunate Gary Parker Collection members, only 75 cases were produced, and none of it has been sold to a Southern California account. This wine is one of the best we have ever had in our club, and I implore you to try and purchase at least a few bottles for your collection. You’ll love yourself for it!
Appearance:
I like the word Chevalier, and the fact that it has a family symbol/crest on the top. A touch of Europe in the United States. The punt (the bottom of the bottle) goes up higher than 99% of the rest. Black label with gold trim is manly, but the rendering of the vineyards gets a little lost in all of it. The fonts are hard to read also. However, the wine isn’t! Black at the core, you can see down about 3/4 inch until it blocks off to opaque. Super slow drips as it curtains down the glass like 40 weight oil.
Nose:
I am going to use the wine makers notes, as he is spot on with his assessments. “Elegant, complex, well-integrated and rich. Attractive aroma mingles cassis, blackberry fruit, spice, violets, sweet cedar, leather, vanilla, earth and salami. Flavors mirror the aroma with rich texture and a long mineral finish”.
Texture:
Texture, texture, texture! Oh my! (Pardon me Dick Enberg). This is amazing. Super extracted fruit and richness, very intense, well-rounded, big, fine line of acid and tannic acid, wood acid, length, power, balance. It commands your attention, and will not go unnoticed at any one sip, first to last. Basically, the texture is a showstopper. The finish confounds with dizzying bursts of flavors and textures.
Flavor:
Go back to the nose for the flavor profile, as winemaker Douglas Danielak suggests. Add sweet vanilla oak, deep cherry, a crush of fresh herb and dark soil.
Serving Options:
More like cellaring than serving options. After trying your first one, I would wait 3-5 years before trying the next. Then another year or two after for each one you have put away. I believe this is a wine of great pedigree, and will last 15 years plus, stored correctly. The powerful fruit and rich character will meld into fine complexities for us to enjoy later in our lives. WOW!
Spicy Hollandaise Sauce
Here’s a twist on a classic recipe, which can be used for Sunday morning Eggs Benedict, or over any kind of white fleshed fish, shrimp, lobster, or even vegetables. This sauce would be a perfect match with the fruit and acid features of our WineSellar Wine Club wine this month, Field Recordings Anti-Wine
Ingredients:
- 4 egg yolks
- 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
- 1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted (1 stick)
- Pinch cayenne, or ½ teaspoon of red pepper flakes or sriracha sauce or your favorite chili sauce
- Pinch salt
Method:
- Vigorously whisk the egg yolks and lemon juice together in a stainless steel bowl and until the mixture is thickened and doubled in volume.
- Place the bowl over a saucepan containing barely simmering water (or use a double boiler,) the water should not touch the bottom of the bowl.
- Continue to whisk rapidly. Be careful not to let the eggs get too hot or they will scramble.
- Slowly drizzle in the melted butter and continue to whisk until the sauce is thickened and doubled in volume.
- Remove from heat, whisk in cayenne and salt.
- Cover and place in a warm spot until ready to use.
- If the sauce gets too thick, whisk in a few drops of warm water before serving.