Wine Club Newsletter - July 2023
The Ten “S” of Wine
- Sharing
- Sight
- Swirl
- Smell
Continuing my series . . .
The Ten “S” of Wine
5. Sip
OK, the magic moment has sprung upon us, the one we have been waiting for, taking a sip of the wine in the glass.
When bringing the glass of wine to your mouth, draw in enough to cover your palate without gulping, of course. Hold the wine in your mouth for a moment, perhaps slosh it around gently but quickly.
If you are confident enough, allow a little air to get into your mouth with the wine by sucking in air softly and quietly. This is called trilling. Trilling can expand the flavors you are processing and discovering, opening them up quicker and making them seem a bit more succinct.
Trilling can be off-putting in public situations by some tasters. Don’t be that person that makes a show out of the trilling process by exaggerating or dramatizing the process by loudly sucking in air and making noise and distorted faces.
Just be soft with it, and slow, and allow your thoughts to focus on the wine for five or ten seconds. It helps you to focus if you close your eyes as well. Also, you may not be distracted or influenced by the reactions of another person tasting the same wine.
What does it taste like? Are the descriptors from the nose (smell) following through on the palate. The answer is generally yes, to some degree, they should mirror each other. Many times, though, you may tasted something that wasn’t readily apparent from the initial aromatics you experienced.
At the end of the day, there is no such thing as a “right” or “wrong” way to taste wine, or even a way to characterize a wine. Instead, what is important is that you enjoy a wine, and look forward to tasting each new sip of that wine.
Enjoy Champagne from a Different Glass
Before opening The WineSellar & Brasserie thirty-five years ago, I was convinced that Champagne tasted better in certain white wine glasses than the Marie Antoinette or fluted style glasses the bubbly was traditionally served in.
So, I procured 16 different style of wine glasses and Champagne flutes, place them on a table and poured the same Champagne into all sixteen glasses. One by one, I was able to detect which glasses gave the most pronounced aromas, which glasses gave the best flavors, and which glasses allowed the bubbles to.
Remember, underneath every great bottle of sparkling wine, is a beautiful bottle of still wine; you want to be able to enjoy that in a great glass where you can smell it, give a little swirl and of course, enjoy everything that it has to offer.
Europe Drowns in Wine as EU Adopts 'Crisis' Measures to Rescue Producers
The European wine industry is being battered by sliding demand due to the current inflation storm on food and drink prices, in combination with a solid 2022 harvest, which has left wine cellars filled to the brim, according to a new European Commission report.
Wine production on the continent increased 4% last year compared with the previous year, while wine stocks were 2% higher versus a five-year average. The drop in wine demand was the most significant in Portugal, down 34%. Demand also tumbled 22% in Germany, 15% in France, 10% in Spain, and 7% in Italy.
And it gets worse for the producers, as the commission stated: "In parallel, EU wine exports for the period January to April 2023 have been 8,5% lower than the previous year, contributing to further increasing the stocks."
The perfect storm of factors is "translating into sales difficulties for EU wine growers and producers, reduction of market prices and consequently, a serious loss of income especially in certain regions mostly hit by these trends," the commission warned.
It continued:
"The situation is very fragmented across the EU, and the imbalance between the available supply and the demand is rather concentrated in certain regions and wines. The most affected are red and rosé wines from certain regions of France, Spain and Portugal, but other wines and/or Member States might encounter similar difficulties in certain production regions."
In response to the overflow of wine on the continent and the crisis on the producer level, the commission has "adopted temporary markets measures to avoid that the unsold wine weighs on the whole internal market and prevents producers to find sufficient storage capacity for the new harvest."
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This may take a couple/few newsletters to get through all ten of the “S’s”. Let me know if you are enjoying them; I am planning to make a video of this if things align.
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Cheers!
Gary Parker, Owner
The WineSellar & Brasserie
2019 Long Creek Semillon
Growing Region Los Olivos, California
Varietal Composition 80% Semillon, 20% Sauvignon Blanc
Fermentation Neutral French Oak Barrels
Alcohol Content 15.8%
Suggested Retail $28.00
WineSellar Club Price $25.19
Broad Strokes: Only 93 Cases made!!! Steve Clifton Winemaker!!!
Kent Mitchell’s grandfather was a farmer/sheep rustler in the hills of Greece and Kent was raised the son of a military officer turned wildcatter turned business owner and real estate developer. Kent is an "accidental winemaker". With a long history in real estate development and architecture, he found his "retirement" to be lacking. Realizing a lifelong dream to be a landowner at Hollister Ranch and enjoy West Coast Surfing, Kent also obtained a small ranch in the Santa Ynez Valley for he and his wife's small "herd" of horses.
With surfing not taking up all his time, Kent met various winemakers and explored area vineyards in the Santa Ynez Valley, and found a new purpose in launching the Long Creek Farms family of wines.
After spending time in the Santa Ynez Valley and Napa wine country, Kent decided to engage the services of renowned winemaker Steve Clifton to help guide him through the winemaking process. Starting in 2018, Kent and Steve visited nearby vineyards, tasted grapes, and made selections that became the wines we are serving today.
Appearance:
You don’t see white wines in brown smoke-colored bottles often, but it looks great, especially contrasting with the white “Creek” image on the label. I like that Steve Clifton signature is on the label. The wine has a lovely, brilliant golden hue.
Nose:
White peach, pineapple and white flowers lace the solid, dense Semillon fruit. Fully extracted deepness, with slivered almonds and spice (saffron too).
Texture:
Fruit rich and extracted as the nose led us to believe. Can’t detect the high alcohol content. Feels like a Chardonnay in the mouth, finish is long.
Flavors:
Classic Semillon notes of ripe peach, beeswax, honey and a touch of citrus. Notes of bitter almond, fig and the neutral wood applications come through to the palate. Tangerine/Mandarin citrus, rich and long.
Serving Suggestions:
Ripe cheeses, butter sauces over fish or shrimp, even better with 45 minutes of air.
2019 Venta la Vega, Garnacha “Ternario 1”
Growing Region Almansa, Castile La Mancha, Spain
Varietal Composition 100% Garnacha Tintorera
Fermentation Concrete and Neutral Oak
Alcohol Content 13.0%
Suggested Retail $26.00
WineSellar Club Price $23.39
Broad Strokes: 92 Points, James Suckling
In the foothills of the legendary mountains of Almansa, known as El Mugrón, are the largest single planting of the Garnacha Tintorera vines in Europe. This privileged location has abundant water and excellent soil, with a micro-climate that guarantees conditions suitable to the organic production of the singular wines of Bodegas Venta la Vega Territorio Ecologico. The estate includes more than 850 hectares of organic farmland in the mountainous limestone soils of Almansa. Altitudes of 1200 meters encourage the creation of distinct, natural micro-climates that enable the land to be farmed without the use of any chemical treatments or additives.
This is a personal project of the renowned oenologist from the Bierzo region, Raúl Pérez. José Ángel Martínez, who made his winemaking fame, much like Laura Ramos, on the Envinate project, works closely with Raúl managing the daily operations. Venta La Vega’s greatest expression is found in “Ternario,” a limited collection of three progressively more evolved organic wines that are all based on the essence of the native variety, Garnacha Tintorera.
Appearance:
Very clean and unobtrusive label. Tells me exactly what I need to know, except for the vintage being on the back label. The wine is a garnet red, bordering on brick but still see through to the core.
Nose:
Roasted coffee beans and earth on the first nose. Red fruit dominant with a little bit of cardamom. Slight leather and chocolatey notes too. Lots going on!
Texture:
Light on the palate but bright acidity with cherries and strawberries. Intense but well integrated. Medium finish but still makes the mouth water.
Flavors:
Some whole cluster fermenting gives the wine a presence of minerality like graphite accompanied by floral notes on the palate. The violets really show after a few swirls, along with the raspberries.
Serving Suggestions:
Paella, Chicken Mole or even a Chorizo Spanish rice would be the perfect summer pairing!
2018 RISK Merlot
Growing Region San Francisco Bay, California
Varietal Composition 100% Merlot
Fermentation French Oak Barrel Aging
Alcohol Content 14.5%
Suggested Retail $30.00
WineSellar Club Price $26.99
Broad Strokes: 94 Points, American Wine Society
After 19 years of making wine at Renwood, which I founded and named after my wife Rene, we were looking for a new challenge. My daughters wanted to open an urban winery and I wanted a boutique winery where we could produce wines from the best vineyards and control the process. Cabana was born in 2011, our first 7 years were in Sacramento, as the focus became on expanding our production, we move to Lodi. At Cabana, we ferment in small lots and barrel age the wine in French oak. Then I used my 30 years of wine making experience to produce the final blend of our award-winning wines. . The name Cabana came from the thought, "making wine, is like a day at the beach". Being from New England, we don't get many beach days making it extra special. Visit Cabana Winery in Lodi. Enjoy wine tastings, many special events. We look forward to sharing the Cabana wine experience with you, stop in our tasting room today!
Appearance:
Kind of a heart-warming story behind the name RISK, and that depiction of the logo is clever and professional. Gold and black package is not quite Darth Vader like, but it is effective. The wine is brilliant crimson, black in the middle.
Nose:
Roast beef, rare, along with rosemary, black pepper, and solid wood notes. Assertive, varietally correct Juicy Merlot nose, is well-integrated with fruits and spices. Juniper and spice, cherry, saline, mineral, chalk, and dark berries.
Texture:
Medium to medium-full in body and weight. Tannins are stable and firm, feeling much like a Merlot should: velvet, smooth, even, and balanced. Very fine structure holding up well and will continue to for years to come.
Flavors:
Hard candy, plum, date, prune, black walnut, maple syrup and vanilla are captivating and exciting. Fruits of black raspberry, cranberry and pomegranate, and a lusty chocolate richness to finish up.
Serving Suggestions:
Flank steak comes to mind, with black pepper sauce.
2019 Outerbound Merlot
Growing Region Tierra Vista Ranch, Sonoma, California
Varietal Composition 100% Merlot
Fermentation 33% New Oak
Alcohol Content 14.5%
Suggested Retail $45.00
WineSellar Club Price $32.99
Broad Strokes: 92 Points, James Suckling
Brought up among the grapevines of California, we are a new era of winemakers, banding together and venturing out into new and uncharted territory. As the 6th generation of winegrowers in the Phillips family, we wanted to forge a new path in the rugged terrain of the North Coast wine region. It's true that the steep hillsides and cool valleys make for a vastly different terrain than our old stomping grounds of Lodi, but therein lies the appeal. We're united in our love of both wine and adventure, and we see the search for the best varietals and vineyards as our next challenge. We are the North Coast Wine Co., and we're excited to help you discover the many varied appellations of this incredible wine region.
Appearance:
Big ol’ heavy bottle with a deep punt and shortened foil cap covering sure enough makes a statement that quality is inside. The overall design is interesting, individualistic, and unique. I’ve learned from my staff that the label is supposed to be a topographical map of Sonoma. Even more unique! Back label info is welcome as always. The wine is very dark red and black at the core.
Nose:
Bright fruit aromatics are refreshing and compelling. Splendid spice notes of cumin, nutmeg, cinnamon, and ginger hover over the pear (yes, pear) fruit and ginger flower. Dark berry fruit, smoke, wood, complex, rose petals.
Texture:
Solid, welcoming presence. You know you are in “good wine” territory when you put your nose into it. Superb round richness, dry though slightly creamy, full in body. Firm tannins hold the wine together well.
Flavors:
Boysenberry fruit is first and foremast and is marvelous. Black raspberry, cherry, black pepper, and sweet vanilla oak. The wood also lends that smokey complexity we found in the aromatics. Vanilla turns into chocolate, more like cocoa nibs versus milk or dark chocolate. Finishing with minerals and smooth tannins.
Serving Suggestions:
The Winery calls this the Cabernet lovers Merlot. Have with BBQ and steaks.
2019 Groth, Oakcross Proprietary Red
Growing Region Oakville, Napa Valley, California
Varietal Composition 49% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petite Verdot
Fermentation 70% New French Oak, 22 Months Barrel
Alcohol Content 14.8%
Suggested Retail $99.00
WineSellar Club Price $89.09
Broad Strokes: 94 Points, The Wine Spectator, 93 Points James Suckling
Groth Vineyards & Winery is a family-owned company with deep roots in the Oakville AVA,
home to Napa Valley’s largest concentration of top Cabernet Sauvignon producers.
Dennis and Judy Groth made a life-changing investment in 1981 when they bought a vineyard on Oakville Cross Road, in the heart of Napa Valley, with hopes it would produce wines as special as their favorites from the region. It didn’t take long for their intuition to be proven right. Robert Parker of the Wine Advocate gave the Groth 1985 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon the distinction of being California’s first 100-point wine. Today, with Dennis and Judy’s daughter, Suzanne Groth, as President & CEO, Groth sustainably farms 165 acres of estate vineyards with the dual goals of producing the highest-quality, most elegant wines we can while caring for our estate for future generations. The winery produces critically acclaimed Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay. The 2016 Reserve Cabernet was ranked No. 4 on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2019 list.
Appearance:
Classy looking bottle. Love the etching of the winery on the label ala Bordeaux Chateau. Good back label story with quick history and winery information.
Nose:
Solid and distinctive Napa Valley fruit is without a doubt world-class. Deep, dense, focused aromatics that are dark, brooding, layered with limousine styled wood/oak treatment, Simply awesome!
Texture:
Seamless. Perfect balance. Entry is full, luscious, smooth, and even. A youthful nip of acid toward the end of the palate bodes well for bottle-aging this wonder. Elegant, refined, powerful.
Flavors:
Sometimes I am amazed at how something as simple as a grape can be turned into a wine of this character, complexity, and magnitude. Is it magic? Feeling blessed enjoying this rich, dark berry, wood woven liquid nirvana with further notes of bramble and cola. Astonishing!
Serving Suggestions:
Put six to twelve bottles in your wine cellar!!!
Brining Salmon
As it does with meat, brining fish serves two purposes: One, it helps season the flesh, which improves flavor, and two, by partially dissolving muscle fibers to form a water-retaining gel, it helps prevent the protein from drying out.
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Line a plate or tray large enough to hold the fillets with a double layer of paper towels or a clean kitchen towel. Season each fillet all over with ½ to 1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt (about ¼ to ½ teaspoon table salt, or ⅓ to ⅔ teaspoon Morton kosher salt), aiming higher or lower, depending on your taste. Place salmon fillets on plate skin side up.
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Transfer the plate to the refrigerator (uncovered or covered loosely with foil) and let the salmon rest at least 8 hours and up to 2 days (see Tip). The salmon will feel dry after this step. Pat the fillets dry before cooking if any moisture remains.
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To cook under the broiler, skip to Step 5. To cook on the stovetop, use your hands to coat each salmon fillet with a thin film of oil on all sides. Heat a skillet large enough to hold the salmon fillets over medium-low for 2 minutes. Add fillets, skin side down, and cook, regularly pressing down on them for the first few minutes to make sure the skin stays flat and has good contact with the pan.
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Continue to cook, moving the fillets around the pan with a spatula and peeking at the skin occasionally, until the skin is brown and crisp, about 4 to 5 minutes total. (If the fillet doesn’t release, give it another 15 to 30 seconds and check again.) Flip the salmon and cook until as done as you like. (For medium-rare, an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the fish should register 100 to 105 degrees when you take it out of the pan. For well done, aim for 130 to 135 degrees in the pan.) Remove fish from the pan and let rest for 5 minutes, skin side up. Serve with a drizzle of olive oil and a lemon wedge.
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To cook under the broiler, adjust a rack in your oven or toaster oven to about 6 inches below the broiler element. Heat the broiler to high. Rub a small amount of oil all over each salmon fillet and arrange skin side up on a rimmed baking sheet.
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For medium-rare salmon, broil until the skin is brown, crisp and charred in spots, about 4 to 5 minutes. (If you like your salmon more well done, increase the distance to the broiler element to 8 inches and cooking time to 7 to 8 minutes total.) Rest 5 minutes, skin side up.
Tips:
This technique will work with any type of salmon, but it can be most dramatic with leaner coho or sockeye salmon as opposed to fattier king. Although you’ll need a minimum of about 8 hours of salting to produce ideal results, salting the salmon even 30 to 45 minutes before cooking and carefully patting it dry with paper towels will improve it.