Wine Club Newsletter - November 2021
GP Picks Two Articles from The Somm Journal
Here are a couple interesting articles from one of my favorite trade publications, The Somm Journal. GP
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The Turn Toward Terroir
Why American Wine Drinkers Should Embrace a Sense of Place
One of the great mysteries of our industry concerns the fact that so few of us appreciate American wines as much as their classic European counterparts. We understand, for instance, that Lafite is Lafite, which is different from Margaux, Haut-Brion, or Cheval Blanc.
Why? Because they are different vineyards, reflecting completely different terroirs.
The same goes for Burgundy. We do not expect a Corton to taste like a Chambertin or a Chambertin to be like a Musigny; meanwhile, in Germany, a top einzellage in the Saar won’t resemble another in the Mittel-Mosel, the Pfalz, or Rheingau. This is as simple as A, B, C.
So why, when we taste Old World varieties grown in different regions throughout, say, California, do we throw them together and rate them as if they should all meet the same sensory profile? Heck, you can take two Pinot Noir vineyards on either side of a road in the Russian River Valley’s Middle Reach neighborhood and find more differences in soil, aspect (i.e., slope and sun exposure), and microclimate than you would in Corton as compared to Chambertin.
So why would you expect a Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley to resemble one from the Anderson Valley 60 miles away, the Santa Lucia Highlands 175 miles away, or the Santa Maria Valley 350 miles away?
The answer, of course, is that we shouldn’t but do anyhow because of the way we evaluate American wines in general: primarily in terms of varietal character and intensity rather than sensory nuance. Appellation, terroir, sense of place—whatever you want to call it—are low on the list of factors consumers consider when purchasing domestic wines.
Yet more and more American wines are being crafted like European wines in the sense that their creators are focused on staying true to the vineyards and appellations they’re sourced from. In some cases, varietal character and house style are thrown completely out the window. Many of you in the sommelier trade or hospitality industry agree with me that, yes, this is the way wines should be.
But here is my caveat: No matter how significant, these changes won’t stick if consumers keep looking at American wines in the same old way.
We need to help our guests and customers throw out preconceptions of varietal character and teach them to demand more than mere consistency from commercial brands while encouraging even our most talented winemakers to resist the compulsion to mess with wines that should be left alone.
We need to promote and celebrate the diversity of terroir, whether the vines in question are 60 or 350 miles apart or just across the road from each other.
I’ve had only two real mentors during my entire career, which started in 1978: André Tchelistcheff and Kermit Lynch. While he is now retired, Lynch’s single-minded obsession with imports that taste like where they come from remains a profound influence on our industry.
What I remember most about Tchelistcheff is his insistence that, when it comes to vineyards, Mother Nature has the final say on what should be grown and how. Therefore, it is the environment, not the producer, that should be the arbiter of the form our best wines take.
Since these values were good enough for Tchelistcheff, they’re still good enough for me.
Polyphenols and Flavor
Polyphenols are important to wine—so crucial, in fact, that it’s widely accepted that a red wine’s phenolic profile determines its quality and age-ability. Attempting to understand them, however, can be incredibly complicated even to wine scientists and chemists. Simply put, polyphenols, which are found throughout the plant kingdom, are a group of compounds that all have one thing in common: a phenol ring in their chemical structure.
The most well-known subcategories of these hexagonal heroes are anthocyanins, flavan-3-ols, and their byproducts, which include mostly tannins, pigments, and, of course, the coveted resveratrol, dubbed the “fountain of youth” by some for its purported anti-aging properties.
All of these subcategories can be categorized into two groups: flavonoids, which have a three-ring structure found in the seeds, skins, and stems of grapes, and non-flavonoids, which lack three rings and are found mostly in grape pulp. It’s worth mentioning that the latter serve as the main phenolic compound in white grapes; however, the subject of phenolics more often revolves around red grapes, as only a fraction of the polyphenols found in red varieties can be found in white grapes.
On a hot afternoon in mid-July, our panel of wine experts bravely navigated the elaborate maze made up of phenolic rings. “Often phenolic compounds determine a wine’s taste, color, and mouth- feel,” said Lars Leicht, VP of education for The SOMM Journal and the moderator for our Geographical Digest webinar series in partnership with National Geographic. “Techniques such as canopy management, green harvest, [adjusting] fermentation temperatures, maceration, and even aging will significantly transform and sometimes add phenolic compounds.
In other words, when winemakers play with their phenols, they release a plethora of pleasure-inducing, palate-pleasing perceptions.
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Cheers!
Gary Parker, Owner
The WineSellar & Brasserie
2019 Pinot Blanc, J. Wilkes
Growing Region Santa Maria Valley, California
Varietal Composition 99.2% Pinot Blanc, 0.8% Chardonnay
Fermentation Stainless Steel Tanks
Alcohol Content 13%
Suggested Retail $20.00
WineSellar Club Price $17.99
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: JEFF(ERSON) WILKES WAS A WINEGROWER AND WINE GRAPE SALESMAN AT BIEN NACIDO AND SOLOMON HILLS VINEYARDS IN THE SANTA MARIA VALLEY AS WELL AS FRENCH CAMP VINEYARD IN THE PASO ROBLES HIGHLANDS FOR TWENTY YEARS (1981-2001).
Jeff’s tireless promotion and demand for quality anchored the Bien Nacido Vineyard, Solomon Hills and the Santa Maria Valley as the heart and soul of Santa Barbara County winegrowing, providing grapes to some of the greatest winemakers in California. Jeff launched his ‘J.Wilkes’ label in 2001, focusing on Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay, and made his last wine in 2010 before his untimely passing late in that same year.
Soon after, the label was relaunched as a tribute to Jeff’s unwavering love of the Santa Maria Valley, his commitment to value and quality, and later as a vehicle for blending AVA wines that show the best of the Central Coast and our diversity of meso-climates…
Appearance:
A cool story about the man, for sure. I like the whimsical, flowing grape leaf on the label. The embossing I also quite nice, but overall the label needs a bit more impact, I feel. The wine is white-gold in color, looking almost metallic, clear and brilliant.
Nose:
Slightly tart aromatics greet you in the beginning, not yielding much for a few minutes. This will soon change to become more exotic in fruits and fragrance. Look for white peach, kiwi, mineral, hot stones, and a cool touch of lemon-lime.
Texture:
A crisp, fine line of acid eventually gives way to a widening fruit essence. That lean feel opens gently, becoming a clean, mouth-watering, inspiring, silky, velvety beverage
Flavors:
Orange and orange peel, and even zest of orange came to me. As the middle palate opens, I got ripe quince, notes of kiwi, pineapple, and later flavors of peach, vanilla and apricot. Amazingly complex and such a great value.
Serving Suggestions:
Winery suggested, and I approve: Fish & chips, oysters, scallops, grilled cheese sandwich with sourdough bread. The wine will age, they are selling the 2016 for $50 at the winery!
2019 Presqu’ile Pinot Noir
Growing Region Santa Barbara County, California
Varietal Composition 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation Neutral French Oak & Stainless Steel
Alcohol Content 13.6%
Suggested Retail $42.00
WineSellar Club Price $26.99
Broad Strokes:
From the Winery: Presqu'ile arose from our penchant for fine wines, an inclination for adventure, the discovery of Santa Maria Valley's ideal terroir, and the desire to rebuild our family’s gathering place after the original Presqu’ile was destroyed during Hurricane Katrina. Their property includes 73 acres of certified sustainably farmed vineyards on our 200-acre property where they craft Santa Maria Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah and Santa Barbara County Sauvignon Blanc.
Today, two generations of Murphys form the heart of Presqu'ile: Matt, Amanda, Jonathan, Anna, Madison and Suzanne, together with winemaker Dieter Cronje and vineyard manager Jim Stollberg.
Appearance:
A fine package overall. I like the dark tinted bottles for Pinot Noir. The graphic on the front label depicts their heartfelt story on the back label, which is a fabulous touch. The wine is lightly hued, kind of a pomegranate seed color.
Nose:
Elegant, balanced, and delicate nose also describes the style of the wine. Exotic Pinot Noir fruit is right on the money, with hints of cherry, wood, damp soil, white pepper, cola and spices.
Texture:
Elegant, balanced and delicate, to repeat a phrase. Even and smooth feel across the palate, which is also very subtle. Medium light in weight and body. There is quite a clean finish with a nice kiss of firming acid.
Flavors:
I love this style of Pinot Noir as a break from the fruit bombs we are sometimes subject to. Subtle cherry fruit, Indian spices, white pepper and wood notes are forthcoming. I also got some damp earth, cola, and additional spiciness on the finish.
Serving Suggestions:
With all of its delicate character, I would drink this more in the near term, say over the next 6-12 months. It is quite excellent with food, the line of acid is very firm and will stand up to cheese, pasta. I had mine with fresh tuna from the grill!
2016 Nebbiolo, Palmina
Growing Region Santa Barbara County, California
Varietal Composition 100% Nebbiolo
Fermentation Neutral French Oak
Alcohol Content 14.9%
Suggested Retail $36.00
WineSellar Club Price $32.39
Broad Strokes:
Palmina is a California celebration of the rich, wonderful lifestyle and attitude toward food, wine, friends and family that exists in Italy. Although craving wine is Palmina’s primary focus, the wines are one part of the equation that is Palmina. Palmina is a passion project of husband and wife team, Chrystal and Steve Clifton. Keeping their production small allows them to continue their strong commitment and zeal for creating high quality Italian varietals from Santa Barbara County, California.
Just as in Italy, Palmina’s focus is to craft wines expressly made to complement and enhance food. Their belief parallels that of their colleagues in Italy in that the regional foods of the area should always complement the flavors found in their regional wines, and vice versa. Both Steve and Chrystal believe that their wines should simply be an extension of the plate; a glass of wine to be enjoyed with food and friends.
Appearance:
I have always liked the Palmina label: Straightforward, easy to assess, interesting shield and design. The wine had taken a bit of a brick hue on, partly because it is Nebbiolo, and also because it has five years of age on it.
Nose:
The exotic, perfumed nose features potpourri, strong scent of rose petals, edged off with a bit of savory notes: soy, herbs (crushed), and a nice, muted touch of wood. Very floral, very interesting!
Texture:
Medium-bodied wine. It has a strong grip, much like its Italian counterpart wines made from the Nebbiolo (Barolo, Barberesco, etc.) Nice length in the middle, and the finish has a beautiful structure just meant for pastas.
Flavors:
The gorgeous raspberry, cherry and strawberry fruits are delicious and delightful. A bit of sour cherry is cool, with a pomegranate, brambleberry essence. Good touch of wood notes, along with the fresh crush of herbs, leaving a balsamic feel on the finish.
Serving Suggestions:
Pork, pasta, wild game, braised meats. Ready now, GREAT with food!
2019 Carignane Reserve, Castoro, Whale Rock Vineyard
Location Paso Robles, California
Varietal Composition 100% Carignane
Fermentation Neutral Oak
Alcohol Content 13.6%
Suggested Retail $35.00
WineSellar Club Price $26.99
Broad Strokes:
Nils & Bimmer Udsen have structured Castoro Cellars to reflect their values, and have developed an approachable and environmentally conscious brand. Nils father was a native to Denmark whom immigrated to America in the late 1940’s. A farmer turned successful businessman, he taught Nils about both the agriculture and business worlds. The two made many trips from their home in Ventura, California to Denmark, where Nils and Bimmer first met at ages 9 and 7, respectively.
In 1983, Nils and Bimmer decided to launch their own brand. The Castoro Cellars label was established with a laid back, warm and welcoming style. Showcasing their sense of humor, the winery named for the Italian translation of Nils long-time nickname, “Beaver”, thus prompting the motto “Dam Fine Wine.”
Appearance:
I like how the “Dam Fine Wine” emblem punches out from the rest of the label. Overall, the packaging is effective in getting out the message. The wine has a lovely red/black coloring to it, black at the center, holding color through to the edges, as the wine drips slowly down the bowl.
Nose:
Edgy, but seriously extracted deep fruits of raspberry, blackberry and cherry waft up a couple inches above the glass. Focused, red licorice, coconut and black pepper can be detected over the sweet vanilla oak. It continues to evolve in complexity, while turning to meaty, savory elements.
Texture:
Medium to medium full body and weight. Mouth-filling dense fruit, with lively acids dancing on the palate. Once you swallow the wine, it lingers in your mouth for at least thirty seconds.
Flavors:
Many flavors remind me of the Rhone Valley in France: hot stones, fresh herbs, earth, perhaps a bit of tar which I find totally appealing! Cherry, dark fruits, sweet vanilla oak, nutmeg, leather strap, red licorice, and then that savory/meaty essence comes through. Nice!
Serving Suggestions:
This wine is totally cellar-worthy, and will go seven to twelve years.
2019 Kanzler Pinot Noir
Growing Region Russian River Valley, California
Varietal Composition 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation 16 Months French Oak, 15% New Oak
Alcohol Content 14.5%
Suggested Retail $60.00
WineSellar Club Price $53.99
Broad Strokes: 93 Points Cellar Tracker
From the Winery: We nurtured our vines for four years, and then had our first harvest in fall 2000. In the early years we sold our grapes to wineries both well known and obscure. Notable early customers were Kosta Browne (a recently launched unknown that would go on to take the Pinot world by storm), Landmark, Flowers, Gary Farrell, Rhys Vineyards, and CL Wines.
It didn’t take long for our clients to realize that our vineyard produced Pinot Noir of rare distinction and quality. Kosta Browne has made a Kanzler vineyard designate every year since 2002, with the 2004 rating 98 points from Wine Spectator, still one of the highest scores ever awarded to a domestically produced Pinot Noir.
Appearance:
Good-looking package, with the heavier Pinot Noir bottle smoke dark tint. I like the picture on the label, it is just too small to be as impactful as I would like to see. The grounds there are a sight to see. The wine is absolutely beautiful, as the brilliant dark magenta goes to nearly clear on the rim.
Nose:
Fantastic, varietally correct Pinot Noir Fragrance that makes me smile big with anticipation. Dark cherry, cherry syrup wrapped in excellent wood treatment. Pine sap, dark berry, some vanilla oak.
Texture:
This is very large for Pinot Noir, but not out of bounds or wrong by any stretch. I love the extraction and density, the richness, all the while still having that Pinot Noir elegance / smoothness / lightness.
Flavors:
This is a WOW on the flavor wheel!!! Dark red raspberry, blueberry, French oak, vanilla, dark chocolate and some white pepper. Luscious and long, lovely and lengthy, this is an absolute winner.
Serving Suggestions:
You NEED to cellar 6-12 bottles of this wine for at least five to ten years, and then call me up and thank me for finding this gem for you, hahahahhhaa!
Corn Pudding / Thanksgiving Side Dish
Delicious and relatively easy to make, with possible variations!
Ingredients:
- 2 large eggs
- 2 cups milk, warmed
- 2 cups fresh corn kernels
- 2 tablespoons onion, finely chopped
- 3 tablespoons melted butter
- 1 red bell pepper finely chopped
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Method:
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Preheat to 325 Degrees
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In a large bowl, beat eggs.
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Whisk in milk and melted butter
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Add corn, bell pepper and seasonings
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Pour into greased 1 ½ quart baking dish
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Set baking dish in shallow pan of water and bake for about one hour or until corn pudding is set (Should come out clear when knife is stuck into pudding)
Options: (One or more, or all!)
Add jalapeno pepper for spice
Add cayenne pepper
Add truffle oil
Add cheddar or Monterey Jack